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06 Civic Build - New Build List on page 60


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So then if I had an enclosure of 1.23 cu ft ported and .70 cu ft sealed, I'd have a total of 1.93 cu ft. I'd go by that or go by the ported only? If I go by ritual then I'd be at between about 24 - 32si for the port right. Actually just below sense its not quite 2 cubes.

Now then, is that 24 - 32 si just the height and width or does that need to be included in length as well?

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According to Torres, with my enclosure's full measurements (19W, 14.5H, 14D1 - 19D2) and what you just said for port 4.25 x 4.25 gives me 18.06si. Remember I have the component rack, so that's 3" thick so my port will have 3" of external length. With that, stuff in mind;

Here's a list of the tuning lengths:

20" = 36.40Hz

19" = 36.96Hz

18" = 37.57Hz

17" = 38.24Hz

16" = 38.97Hz

15" = 39.89Hz

14" = 40.77Hz

13" = 41.74Hz

12" = 42.81Hz

The specs say frequency on the sub should be around 40Hz. Should I be taking that into account? So I guess then I should make ports all those sizes and see how they all sound? Would i be using test tones, or regular music, or what would I be using to test it?

Hope you guys aren't getting frustrated with me. I appreciate all the help in trying to learn this.

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Internal. Ok, there is that component wall behind the seat. it's 3" deep. That's going to be there no matter what. So the enclosure will butt straight up to that. So externally I have to go through that to get to the back seat. So there's my 3" external port length. Then I would extend the port internally those lengths. That's how I put it into Torres and those are the Frequencies it gave me.

So if I do an 18" port, I've got 3" outside, and 15" inside. If I do a 16" port I've got 3" outside, and 13" inside.

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Ok. so you think I shouldn't worry about the building different ports and testing then? By what you just said, the 16 - 17" port should be pretty good then. If I go 17 that's closer to the 38hz mark. Let me see here.........17.25 puts me at 38.13hz. Am I going to be able to hear fractions of hz difference, like 38.24 - 38.13? Probably not huh! Ok so at 17" that would put 3" outside, and 14" inside, including the 3/4" wall it has to go through. I just have to take that into account.

Ok so as soon as I have some damn time, I'll be building this test box.

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Ok here's my latest sketch up on it. I've added .5" and actually I may be able to eliminate the under rear deck drawer completely which would actually give me more room if I need it. But I'll wait and see how this sounds first. So this one is 15" tall by 19" wide and top 14" deep and bottom 19" deep. That's a total of 1.95 net cuft.

The top chamber is the sealed chamber at 6" tall x 19" wide x 14" / 15.75" deep for a net of .61 cu ft

The bottom chamber is ported at 9.75" tall x 19" wide x 15" / 19" deep for a net of 1.19 cu ft

That's really close to a 2:1 ratio.

Port is 4.25 x 4.25 at 13.75" long and is all external. Why all external, well because the way the enclosure would sit in the trunk puts the edge of the enclosure right at the edge of the seat pass through. This is a problem cause I have two of the 3 amps that are 18" long. The third one is about 10" long. So I need those inches cause if I add the 5" (4.25 + .75 wood thickness = 5") then I'm at 24" for the enclosure as a whole. 40 - 24 = 16" and that won't work. But, if I swap the amps, look at the previous designs for the drawer layout, and put the 2 18" amps on top and the 3rd amp in the middle and processor on the bottom, then that gives me the ability to shorten those drawers and put the port on the outside! Everything works! On paper anyway! All that clear as mud? Ok then!

Also the sub will sit straight up. Motor down, cone up.

Ok onto the pictures.

Front view straight on

Final4thorderenclosureideastraighton-1.jpg

Front Side angle

Final4thorderenclosureideaoppositeangle-1.jpg

Front opposite side angle

Final4thorderenclosureideatopangle.jpg

Side view

Final4thorderenclosureideaside.jpg

Rear straight on

Final4thorderenclosureidearear-1.jpg

I like this one and the numbers seem to work. I'll be building this one, as well as on sketch up doing the drawers etc on it and making the full package so I can see if it works or not.

As I said before, I may eliminate the rear deck drawer. I was originally going to put the 4.1K on the trunk lid and if I need the extra air space for this enclosure, I can always put the 4.1k back up there as planned originally and that will give me up to 3 more inches of space available.

So what do you all think?

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I feel like ur good with sketch up. lol... but It seems like the box is really small... I havent read all of your millions of pages so i dont know what size or type of sub your running but the box does seam to be kinda small. It also doesnt look like you accounted for the displacement of the sub. Also i like ur window idea but i would say you should put something on the outside with a border for each section because when you go to seal the chambers against the window its not going to look good with the glue showing. Just my thought. I dont mean to bash all of your stuff. I like ur build so far just wanna make sure u build ur box right.

edit: Ur port area is good for the size of the ported section, but like I said it seems like its too small so if you make it bigger you will probably have to change the port area.

2 DC 12" lvl 4s

1 DC 1.2k

XS Power S3400

big 3

Alll KNU wire

Pioneer HU

cheapo Legacy coaxes (just for now)

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