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Amp clipping indicators ???


Fish Chris

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Aut, don't get me wrong, I understand that having everything tested for clipping point with a DD 1 or something similar would probably be a good thing to do.

But what your saying is that if a person did that first, then they could just hop in there ride, at any time, pull up their loudest track, crank the volume to full, and max out their bass setting, and have zero clipping in the final product ?

I'm sorry, but I disagree.

If a system was tuned down so freaking low that this was even possible, then when the user pulled up a track which was not recorded near as loud, he could not make it "loud enough" with those settings.

Ya' know, for being "nearly useless" it's funny how my system sounds freaking fantastic, with all different types of stuff, deck settings, etc..... right up until I start to get a little bit of red flicker, at which point it starts to sound just a bit harsher. More constant flicker bordering on staying lit red, and now their is obvious distortion.

Maybe it's just with my system, but what my eyes tell me, is exactly inline with what my ears tell me.

I just like / want the added benefit of the visual indicator, should I be on the freeway with the windows down... or have been cranking it loud enough, long enough, that my ears are losing sensitivity (not recommended by hearing doctors anywhere)

Fish

As was already said, the clipping indicator on amps are a part of the output rail. When you push the amp past it's max clean output, it will light up. There is one MAJOR problem with relying on this method; It doesn't go off if the input signal is clipped, only if output rail voltage limit is exceeded!

Chances are you won't have a clue where to set your peak volume on your head unit at all, so there is hardly a point to have a clipping indicator that doesn't show you when your preamp stuff clips.

What everyone is trying to tell you is that you can never be sure your whole system is clip free unless you can check every piece of your equipment. Be it with a scope or a DD-1, you need to check your head unit for max volume, and check out anything in the line before your amp (such as EQs, processors, crossovers etc. Anything that goes in between the head unit and the amp) before you can accurately rely on your amp's clipping indicator. That being said, if you possessed a scope or a DD-1 to tune your head unit and amp with, then you wouldn't need a clipping light.

Clipping indicators are neat, but they are practically useless.

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So, you take a sweet a$$, reputable, expensive amp like this > http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21958_Kicker-ZX1500.1-10ZX1500.1.html

.....and it doesn't even have a single, stupid little clipping indicator light on one end of it ??? WTF ?!?!?

Am I like the only guy on the planet for whom clipping matters ?

This is effing killing me !

An amp without a good (preferably up front) clipping indicator, just flat out won't work for me. It's just a total deal breaker.

I guess the manufacturers don't want you to know when your clipping, so you will blow more $#!+ up, and come back to them to buy more. I just won't buy it in the first place.

Yea', this kind of pisses me off.

Fish

As was already said, the clipping indicator on amps are a part of the output rail. When you push the amp past it's max clean output, it will light up. There is one MAJOR problem with relying on this method; It doesn't go off if the input signal is clipped, only if output rail voltage limit is exceeded!

Chances are you won't have a clue where to set your peak volume on your head unit at all, so there is hardly a point to have a clipping indicator that doesn't show you when your preamp stuff clips.

What everyone is trying to tell you is that you can never be sure your whole system is clip free unless you can check every piece of your equipment. Be it with a scope or a DD-1, you need to check your head unit for max volume, and check out anything in the line before your amp (such as EQs, processors, crossovers etc. Anything that goes in between the head unit and the amp) before you can accurately rely on your amp's clipping indicator. That being said, if you possessed a scope or a DD-1 to tune your head unit and amp with, then you wouldn't need a clipping light.

Clipping indicators are neat, but they are practically useless.

Autruch. Finally someone who gets it. I have just upgraded you to a silver membership for your post. I couldnt have said it better myself.


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Aut, don't get me wrong, I understand that having everything tested for clipping point with a DD 1 or something similar would probably be a good thing to do.

But what your saying is that if a person did that first, then they could just hop in there ride, at any time, pull up their loudest track, crank the volume to full, and max out their bass setting, and have zero clipping in the final product ?

I'm sorry, but I disagree.

If a system was tuned down so freaking low that this was even possible, then when the user pulled up a track which was not recorded near as loud, he could not make it "loud enough" with those settings.

Ya' know, for being "nearly useless" it's funny how my system sounds freaking fantastic, with all different types of stuff, deck settings, etc..... right up until I start to get a little bit of red flicker, at which point it starts to sound just a bit harsher. More constant flicker bordering on staying lit red, and now their is obvious distortion.

Maybe it's just with my system, but what my eyes tell me, is exactly inline with what my ears tell me.

I just like / want the added benefit of the visual indicator, should I be on the freeway with the windows down... or have been cranking it loud enough, long enough, that my ears are losing sensitivity (not recommended by hearing doctors anywhere)

Fish

As was already said, the clipping indicator on amps are a part of the output rail. When you push the amp past it's max clean output, it will light up. There is one MAJOR problem with relying on this method; It doesn't go off if the input signal is clipped, only if output rail voltage limit is exceeded!

Chances are you won't have a clue where to set your peak volume on your head unit at all, so there is hardly a point to have a clipping indicator that doesn't show you when your preamp stuff clips.

What everyone is trying to tell you is that you can never be sure your whole system is clip free unless you can check every piece of your equipment. Be it with a scope or a DD-1, you need to check your head unit for max volume, and check out anything in the line before your amp (such as EQs, processors, crossovers etc. Anything that goes in between the head unit and the amp) before you can accurately rely on your amp's clipping indicator. That being said, if you possessed a scope or a DD-1 to tune your head unit and amp with, then you wouldn't need a clipping light.

Clipping indicators are neat, but they are practically useless.

bro. You are a hard headed old man, like me. Come to sac, i will show you the light. You can roll up tonight if you want. :)

Remember, its not always about scoping your system and having to turn the gains DOWN. Its about matching your gains to your decks output. You want your amp to put out full power when the deck is putting out full power. Look at it this way. You dont want your amp "cumming" before your deck "cums". And vice-versa. You want them bustin a nut at the same time and that time is something you can predict. If your deck busts a nut at 54 out of 55, that is critical information relative to setting gains. You might find that you have been cheating yourself out of output and get to actually turn the gains UP.

im not even pushing the DD-1 here......this goes for a scope too.

hollar if you like, my numbers the same, i would love to have you over again. :drinks:


All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ 
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H/U and amp cumming together. Thats fucking awesome!! :rofl::lol:

for lack of a better way to describe it. :lol:


All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ 
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Aut, don't get me wrong, I understand that having everything tested for clipping point with a DD 1 or something similar would probably be a good thing to do.

But what your saying is that if a person did that first, then they could just hop in there ride, at any time, pull up their loudest track, crank the volume to full, and max out their bass setting, and have zero clipping in the final product ?

I'm sorry, but I disagree.

If a system was tuned down so freaking low that this was even possible, then when the user pulled up a track which was not recorded near as loud, he could not make it "loud enough" with those settings.

Ya' know, for being "nearly useless" it's funny how my system sounds freaking fantastic, with all different types of stuff, deck settings, etc..... right up until I start to get a little bit of red flicker, at which point it starts to sound just a bit harsher. More constant flicker bordering on staying lit red, and now their is obvious distortion.

Maybe it's just with my system, but what my eyes tell me, is exactly inline with what my ears tell me.

I just like / want the added benefit of the visual indicator, should I be on the freeway with the windows down... or have been cranking it loud enough, long enough, that my ears are losing sensitivity (not recommended by hearing doctors anywhere)

Fish

As was already said, the clipping indicator on amps are a part of the output rail. When you push the amp past it's max clean output, it will light up. There is one MAJOR problem with relying on this method; It doesn't go off if the input signal is clipped, only if output rail voltage limit is exceeded!

Chances are you won't have a clue where to set your peak volume on your head unit at all, so there is hardly a point to have a clipping indicator that doesn't show you when your preamp stuff clips.

What everyone is trying to tell you is that you can never be sure your whole system is clip free unless you can check every piece of your equipment. Be it with a scope or a DD-1, you need to check your head unit for max volume, and check out anything in the line before your amp (such as EQs, processors, crossovers etc. Anything that goes in between the head unit and the amp) before you can accurately rely on your amp's clipping indicator. That being said, if you possessed a scope or a DD-1 to tune your head unit and amp with, then you wouldn't need a clipping light.

Clipping indicators are neat, but they are practically useless.

bro. You are a hard headed old man, like me. Come to sac, i will show you the light. You can roll up tonight if you want. :)

Remember, its not always about scoping your system and having to turn the gains DOWN. Its about matching your gains to your decks output. You want your amp to put out full power when the deck is putting out full power. Look at it this way. You dont want your amp "cumming" before your deck "cums". And vice-versa. You want them bustin a nut at the same time and that time is something you can predict. If your deck busts a nut at 54 out of 55, that is critical information relative to setting gains. You might find that you have been cheating yourself out of output and get to actually turn the gains UP.

im not even pushing the DD-1 here......this goes for a scope too.

hollar if you like, my numbers the same, i would love to have you over again. :drinks:

sounds like a bromance going on here lol :wub:

Ok,I'll just hide under the well now :peepwall:

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Dude ! I'd love to come over today. Tried to call just now, but just got your voice mail. I guess I'll start heading that way though. Will call again when I get close....

Peace,

Fish

Aut, don't get me wrong, I understand that having everything tested for clipping point with a DD 1 or something similar would probably be a good thing to do.

But what your saying is that if a person did that first, then they could just hop in there ride, at any time, pull up their loudest track, crank the volume to full, and max out their bass setting, and have zero clipping in the final product ?

I'm sorry, but I disagree.

If a system was tuned down so freaking low that this was even possible, then when the user pulled up a track which was not recorded near as loud, he could not make it "loud enough" with those settings.

Ya' know, for being "nearly useless" it's funny how my system sounds freaking fantastic, with all different types of stuff, deck settings, etc..... right up until I start to get a little bit of red flicker, at which point it starts to sound just a bit harsher. More constant flicker bordering on staying lit red, and now their is obvious distortion.

Maybe it's just with my system, but what my eyes tell me, is exactly inline with what my ears tell me.

I just like / want the added benefit of the visual indicator, should I be on the freeway with the windows down... or have been cranking it loud enough, long enough, that my ears are losing sensitivity (not recommended by hearing doctors anywhere)

Fish

As was already said, the clipping indicator on amps are a part of the output rail. When you push the amp past it's max clean output, it will light up. There is one MAJOR problem with relying on this method; It doesn't go off if the input signal is clipped, only if output rail voltage limit is exceeded!

Chances are you won't have a clue where to set your peak volume on your head unit at all, so there is hardly a point to have a clipping indicator that doesn't show you when your preamp stuff clips.

What everyone is trying to tell you is that you can never be sure your whole system is clip free unless you can check every piece of your equipment. Be it with a scope or a DD-1, you need to check your head unit for max volume, and check out anything in the line before your amp (such as EQs, processors, crossovers etc. Anything that goes in between the head unit and the amp) before you can accurately rely on your amp's clipping indicator. That being said, if you possessed a scope or a DD-1 to tune your head unit and amp with, then you wouldn't need a clipping light.

Clipping indicators are neat, but they are practically useless.

bro. You are a hard headed old man, like me. Come to sac, i will show you the light. You can roll up tonight if you want. :)

Remember, its not always about scoping your system and having to turn the gains DOWN. Its about matching your gains to your decks output. You want your amp to put out full power when the deck is putting out full power. Look at it this way. You dont want your amp "cumming" before your deck "cums". And vice-versa. You want them bustin a nut at the same time and that time is something you can predict. If your deck busts a nut at 54 out of 55, that is critical information relative to setting gains. You might find that you have been cheating yourself out of output and get to actually turn the gains UP.

im not even pushing the DD-1 here......this goes for a scope too.

hollar if you like, my numbers the same, i would love to have you over again. :drinks:

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Too bad there is no way to stop my POS decks premature ejaculation :( Like a virgin on prom night it gets off before it's half way up.

-Zach-

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Aut, don't get me wrong, I understand that having everything tested for clipping point with a DD 1 or something similar would probably be a good thing to do.

But what your saying is that if a person did that first, then they could just hop in there ride, at any time, pull up their loudest track, crank the volume to full, and max out their bass setting, and have zero clipping in the final product ?

I'm sorry, but I disagree.

If a system was tuned down so freaking low that this was even possible, then when the user pulled up a track which was not recorded near as loud, he could not make it "loud enough" with those settings.

Ya' know, for being "nearly useless" it's funny how my system sounds freaking fantastic, with all different types of stuff, deck settings, etc..... right up until I start to get a little bit of red flicker, at which point it starts to sound just a bit harsher. More constant flicker bordering on staying lit red, and now their is obvious distortion.

Maybe it's just with my system, but what my eyes tell me, is exactly inline with what my ears tell me.

I just like / want the added benefit of the visual indicator, should I be on the freeway with the windows down... or have been cranking it loud enough, long enough, that my ears are losing sensitivity (not recommended by hearing doctors anywhere)

Fish

Now you're getting to it, that is the only use for a clipping light!

You set all of your stuff using your desired track, say -5dB, then you can set your gain on your amp (with the remote bass knob all the way up) with a smaller wave, say -15dB. Then turn your bass knob all the way down and play your smaller tone, like -5dB, and begin to turn the bass knob up, but not the gain. When you have found out where you turn the knob the get you to your -5dB point make sure you mark it (marking exactly where that is on the knob is crucial) then you can adjust your bass knob on the fly for songs with less bass.

Viola, everything was checked out and set proper, but you still have the ability to compensate for quieter songs. Stay away from playing clipped songs and you are good to go. That's how you properly make use of a clipping light!

Autruch. Finally someone who gets it. I have just upgraded you to a silver membership for your post. I couldnt have said it better myself.

Thank you very much! :yahoo::woot:

Edit: typo

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fish chris came by....we got him all straightened out....im editing video right now. :) I think he is happy. :woot:


All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ 
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Follow My Instagram! Daily live feeds from the shop, exclusive content way before it hits my Youtube channel...and little squares with photo's in them :D
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