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Can I add a subwoofer to a 2014 Fusion Hybrid?


Gary Hall

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So I called Crutchfield about adding a subwoofer system to my wife's 2014 Fusion Titanium Hybrid. She has had large systems in her last few vehicles, and does not want to stop here. However, a discussion with Crutchfield left me with some pretty disappointing information. He informed me that if I wanted to add an amplifier, it would have to be 350 watts or less, and a fuse no larger than 30 amps.

I am aware that I will need to disable the Active Noise Cancellation mics in the headliner to avoid interference.

My problem is this: My wife wants at least 500 watts RMS. cool.gif

Using the following equipment, does anyone see a problem with a modest 500 watt RMS system?

2nd battery: NVX XHC600 12V High Current Car Audio Power Cell Battery

battery isolator: NVX BIR500 500 Amp Relay Isolator (BIR500) - Sonic Electronix

capacitor: NVX XCAP1F True 1.0 Farad Digital Capacitor w/Distribution Block

Wired in this fashion: http://www.nvx.com/media/wysiwyg/BIR500.pdf

Like I said, my target here is 500 watts RMS. See any reason why this shouldn't work?

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I don't really think you will need anything with only 500wrms. If you want to do something that will help just upgrade your starting battery.

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strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said:

when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole

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I am just relaying what I have been told about the vehicle's limitations. It's a hybrid, and has no conventional alternator, and the stock battery has VERY low power, as it is not used to start the car (it just powers simple 12v electronics such as relays and power ports).

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It has to have a way to charge the stock battery. I would go do a dig in and check. Remember it is part conventional combustion engine.

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Alpine CDA-9887

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2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

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The batteries in the vehicle are recharged through a process called regenerative braking. Essentially, when you use gentle brake pressure, instead of actually applying the physical brakes, it allows the electric drive motor to function as a generator (a motor in reverse), which applies current back to the batteries (and also as a byproduct provides resistance to rotation, slowing the car). This can also happen during driving, usually at higher speeds. The gas motor kicks in to sustain speed, and the car allows the electric motor to be turned by the drive train, recharging the batteries.

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I'm aware how the hybrid process works. Typically the vehicle driven charging system is isolated from the stock electrical since they work at different voltages. Car works at 12 and electric drive at 120 or higher i can't remember. If Ford isn't doing thst you might have issues. I've found quite a few links that say the fusion hybrids have alternators though.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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http://autos.yahoo.com/ford/fusion/2014/hybrid-titanium/

that link says an upgraded alternator js available so it might have one

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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Yeah, I do see where it says that. I believe that's a fudge-up on the listing. If you go to build one on Ford's website that option is not there (and the Ford dealer also claims that there is no conventional alternator). I am sure there is a way to get more out of the factory electrical system, but I am fairly confident that it would require a different DC/DC converter, and I am CERTAIN that would not be cheap. My primary focus here it to obtain more solid information as to how much power can be safely drawn from the car's electrical system without risking damage to the car (or making the car think that something is wrong).

I am kinda convinced that a second 12v battery, an isolator, and a capacitor are most likely going to be the best option, but I am still open to other suggestions and ideas. I am CERTAINLY open to solid numbers regarding the cars electrical systems.

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