Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I went to move my car and noticed that It will idle fine and I can rev it all day long as long as long as its in park but the second I give it gas in gear it dies out. It moves forward and back fine in gear at idle but pressing the pedal just kills it. Any Idea?.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What kind of car. Had a Jeep that did that after someone tried to steal it computer put car in anti theft mood. Are you using the right key? Some cars have run keys to heat them up. I have one that will let the car run but once in gear it will die.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/


th_140x100square.jpgMechman_140x100px.JPGDCHome.jpgI

image_url-76414-1423274612_thumb.jpgimage_url-76414-1423320284_thumb.jpg

Pioneer P99RS
Ampere 3800
2-Ampere 125/4
4-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids
4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer

2-5.25 Satori Mids
2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars
2-Hertz Silk tweeters
DC Audio Level 5/12
Skyhigh Wire
Mechman 320
XS Power D3100

MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is the car carbureted, or EFI? My truck used to have a problem similar to that. After I changed out the carb with the other one I rebuilt, that problem went away! It was like the truck's weight was too much for the carb, and it would die right when I went to give it gas in gear. but same thing, I could rev it and idle fine all day. Also check your distributor cap. Clean all the built up crud on your points, brushes, etc. whatever you got! I have HEI myself. but whatever distributor you have can be a cause if its all built up with that green crap. Causing a slight miss! So start at the distributor just because its easy and cheaper, if that doesn't fix it move to the carb! also if the valves are out of adjustment I could see that happening too... BUT THATS RARE!!! And it would have to be REALLY out of adjustment. If you have EFI, I suggest giving the throttle body a good clean. Also check your plugs to see if your coils are firing as they should. your plugs will look basically the same, any major differences (black sooty stuff usually) will tell you that coil is not up to par. The plugs should be brown to greyish tan color. if the vehicle is newer then 91 or 92 (I forget) just go rent a OBD2 reader and plug it in under the dash, and it should give you the codes telling you what needs to be fixed (or what the problem is). What kind of car is it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Motorboat's info on the pump is plausible if you weren't getting enough fuel pressure to the carb or injection system. But the fact the vehicle runs, revs and idles tells me that's not the case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow that was fast. Its a 76 Tbird, same as my pic. Its got a holley 600cfm carb(exact model unknown). It done this since I got it every now and then. Theres a few vacuum lines unhooked in it but they seem to be from the smog pump which was removed years ago. I'll check the distributor when I get back to school as its up there, I know it leaks gas but not much, and if that was the problem it wouldnt rev un park either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is it your thunderbird or whatever? that's definitely carbureted. probably point ignition. Clean your cap first, then carb! May be time for a carb rebuild brother! Ill put money on one or the other fixing it! check the plugs after you fix it for what i described earlier, just as a good measure! Have a good one man!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...