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Hello Fellas,

I have a question that I need answered or at least point me in the right direction and I will take it from there.

Old set up: Perfectly balanced set up.

This set up total was 85A based on the fuse. and 140A stock alternator.

PPI 200ix > Old School 8264Eclipse Components

Crossfire VR602 > 2 12" Old school Solo Barics

I can play music at level 45 out of 62 on the Pioneer DEH-P5000UB without harmful distortion. I can probably go up to level 50 and be safe but no way to confirm without a SMD distortion detector.

What I did yesterday: I COULD NOT LEAVE WELL ENOUGH ALONE!

Yesterday, I purchased a set of used Memphis 15-C312D4's for cheap. I installed them into the sub enclosure. (Kicker is .88cf, the Memphis .81cf so pretty darn close). Anyhow, the Crossfire wire at 4 Ohm wasn't pushing them hard enough like it could the Kicker Solos. Each Memphis sub was rated at 600W RMS. I switched to my old JL J21000.1 and the Memphis subs CAME ALIVE! THe bass was thundering. It reminded me of a thunder and lightning summer session in Orlando,FL summer. If you've ever been witness to the thunder and lightning of Orlando, FL....the KABOOM rattles your car enough to scare the shit out of you. They make up for what the Kicker Solo's lacked, bass below 40 Hz. The Memphis digged deep and delivered. Even my gf's daughter's tinny bopper boyfriend asked "Wow, what do you have in that thing, it's bangin'!" I'm assuming that's a compliment. hahaha.

Current problem:

Looking at the fuses, I now total 25+105= 130 A. Stock alternator, like I said was 140A. Sure as shit, when I turned the sound up, listening closely I could hear the tweeters "scratching" at level 45, and not noticable at level 40. The JL must be drawing much more amperage than the PPI, and/or the Pioneer CD Player, which is causing the noticable scratching?? It's all I can think of.

I told my GF "I don't like the way it sounds, and I'll be damned if I'm going to get a high powered alternator This is how the stereo bug starts and it can get expensive,etc!" She wants to go on a cruise and will kill me if I invest more money into my car. lol.

Well today on the drive to school. The deeper bass is too much to give up and,....... I want to get an alternator for my Bimmer. lol. I looked it up......$335.00! Ouch!!!! I will bite the bullet and buy it, though I said I would not. lol. If this will solve the problem......

Is what I am describing common????? I feel I am creating more problems then I am solving!!!

Thanks for the long read!!

-Frank

These things are freakin' beasts. Paid $82.38!!!!

VIDEO0684_0000025589_zps6f410746.jpg

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Before anything I would make sure your gains are set properly.

And that price for the alternator is really cheap, I would be cautious. DC power, MechMan or Singer when it comes to alts.

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Gain on the amps are 1/2 turn each. if i try the bass boost on the JL, the scratching gets worse. it has to be the bigger causing the problem. like i said the prior set up perfect and now its not. another possibility is the circuitry within the old school PPI amp and thry way it handles the input current.

-Frank

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im going to rule the ppi amp by installing my old tma 360.2 amp for the highs when i get home from class. tma is the same as th JL J2 amp. JL is the parent company for tma.

just want to rule different amp rule. (do not mix amp brands). im getting tiny turn.off pop, i believr its coming from thr ppi.

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Do you have a second battery in the rear of the vehicle near the amplifiers ??

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There's a rule that says don't mix amp brands? Never heard of such a thing.

Is your big 3 done?

Leave the volume down and get a DMM.

When you switched out sub amps you made a big jump in power right? Wha are the specs on that crossfire amp?

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Its the gains imo, and dint use bass boost at all.

find someone or a shop near you that has an oscope or dd1 to get things set right for sure.

as far as electrical goes start with the big 3 and upgrade your stock battery. Also at that amperage draw I would suggest 4gauge ofc front to back and anywhere else it will fit such as to the amps or if using a non fused distro block the from the distro block to the fuse holders for the amps. As long as grounds are to the frame and that they are cleaned of paint, rust, dirt, or any other debris. They need to be mounted securely and a common ground can prevent ground loop.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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IMAG4797_zps54585a24.jpg

Ok guys, I took your advise. Downloaded the JL J21000.1D manual. Read up on the sine waves test tone.

I downloaded a 45Hz test tone from MP3skull.

I first tried my Rockford Fosgate RFX-8140 CD player because it was sitting around and I didn't want to pull out the Pioneer.

First reading was 32 V like the JL manual recommends for 1 Ohm. The gain was set at the 9 oclock position. CD player volume set at

30 of 38 as a reference. My old Fosgate used to get loud at 30-32. RCA Output is 8V per the manual.

After thinking about it, I could not do it half assed so I found the Pioneer keys and infact removed it. Disconnected the rear speakers and

measured. Surprisingly, the gain is now set the 10 O'clock position. The Pioneer volume is set at 50 of 62. RCA Output is 4V per the manual.

I might as well re-install the TMA 360.4 (I incorrectly typed in 360.2 last time) and run it 4 Ohm stereo bridged once I figure out how to check the

watts on youtube. I pulled it b/c in 4 Ohm stereo, it only was putting out @ 60W and the Eclipse sounded ok. Installing the PPI 100Wx2 sounded

alot cleaner and louder. Even if the PPI was really only doing 75W, it def. sounded alot clearer and louder.

Expedition, as far the different brands, I meant I heard a popping sound on turn on and turn off. I read a few forums that stated the different

soft turn on and turn off of the brands may cause feedback on "start up or shut down". So one option was to keep consistency the same brand.

I noticed it that when I mixed a MTX 4300 for mids/highs, and a Memphis 1500D in my old S-10. When I changed out the MTX 4300 for a Memphis 16ST-3004, miss that amp, the popping went away. So it did happen to me, and went along with what I read.

-Frank

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