philrab Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 First question, and my first time working with component speakers (ran coaxials before) and using a 4 channel amp (always ran off the head unit.) Be gentle, as I'm in uncharted territory and learning as I go. I'm buying a used JL 320.4 (got a screaming deal on if from a guy at mazda3forums where I'm a mod; 60 rms x4 @4 ohms, 80 rms @2 ohms, 160 rms bridged @ 4 ohms), planning to bridge it to run my Infinity components in the front doors (Infinity 6030CS, 6.5" components rated for 90 watts rms.) I know I've got more power than I need with the JL amp bridged, but when you see a good deal on good equipment you jump on it is how I feel. The plan is to either run the rear speakers off the head unit or just disconnect them (stockers, and I don't sit in the back seat anyway.) My question is, JL specifically doesn't recomend running lower than a 4 ohm load bridged on this amp, which makes perfect sense to me, BUT Infinity at some point started this "true 4 ohm" bit where their speakers are actually less than a 4 ohm load figuring that the coil heating up and resistance from the wires will add some back in, making it safe to run straight off a head unit @ 4 ohms (so they say.) The question comes in that, will I actually see a 4 ohm load at the amp after the speaker wire ect., or am I going to send this amp straight into protect running too low a load for bridged operation? If I'm not giving enough information, just ask. I'm figuring worst case scenario, I'll just run two of the four channels, and leave the other two alone, but I figure if I have that power I may as well put it to use and underdrive the amp. If I'm thinking about this backwards, feel free to straighten me out. Like I said, I'm not a total car audio virgin, but I am stepping out of familiar territory on this install. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 If you don't need but two channels, why not buy a 2 channel amplifier ?? Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 If you don't need but two channels, why not buy a 2 channel amplifier ?? That was the plan, but what I got this amp for I would have spent on a 2 channel dishing out 40-50 rms. For the same power, I've got a lot more power to feed these speakers. Like I said, I got a screaming deal on the amp. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted April 23, 2014 Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 bridging a 4 channel amplifier will make it run hotter. It will work, but plain and simple ... you are over working the amplifier. My suggestion would be to save your money and buy you a larger 2 channel amplifier and have a moderate gain setting had have things run cool and normal. Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted April 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2014 bridging a 4 channel amplifier will make it run hotter. It will work, but plain and simple ... you are over working the amplifier. My suggestion would be to save your money and buy you a larger 2 channel amplifier and have a moderate gain setting had have things run cool and normal. As another option, would only running two of the four channels do any harm? Figuring I can go ahead and run this, get my wiring and everything run, and swap them out or trade amps + cash with someone at a later date? No one can comment on the actual load presented by the Infinity speakers? If Infinity is confident they'll run off of a head unit, and I've not seen a head unit tolerate less than a 4 ohm load, shouldn't that indicate that the speakers + wiring will net me a 4 ohm load? Any way I can check post install with a digital multimeter, like probe the ends of the speaker leads just before the amp for resistance and see what my actual load really is? 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 The Infinity 6030CS are 2 Ohm load components. Running the front channels will give you 80W RMS @ 2 Ohm based on 13.8V off that JL 320.4 amp. We have the same amp Depending on the car you drive if you're at 12.5V, deduct about 10-12.5% less watts due to less voltage. Just an FYI. So if they may really need 90W, and the JL will not cut it. My Bimmer is 13.45V with the battery sitting with the trunk. Need to test the V with it running. I never thought components could run at 90-150W as stated,but I have an old school PPI 200ix on a set of Eclipse 8264's and OMG they are clean and loud! Like others have said, may need another amp. You can't bridge the amp. I can bridge my JL J2 320.4 since my Eclipse are 4 Ohm and 90W RMS. That's the down side with ohm loads. get a smoking deal on components, and an smoking deal on an amp and at the end, they do not match. I happened to me as well with a deal on 2 smoking Rockford Fosgate Hx2 15's. They were dual 2 ohm and that caused me to have to find a 1 Ohm stable amp. Back in the day, those were expensive. lol. I was sitting on $350.00 worth of subs (2 for the price of one) but no amp. lol. -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted April 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 The Infinity 6030CS are 2 Ohm load components. Running the front channels will give you 80W RMS @ 2 Ohm based on 13.8V off that JL 320.4 amp. We have the same amp Depending on the car you drive if you're at 12.5V, deduct about 10-12.5% less watts due to less voltage. Just an FYI. So if they may really need 90W, and the JL will not cut it. My Bimmer is 13.45V with the battery sitting with the trunk. Need to test the V with it running. I never thought components could run at 90-150W as stated,but I have an old school PPI 200ix on a set of Eclipse 8264's and OMG they are clean and loud! Like others have said, may need another amp. You can't bridge the amp. I can bridge my JL J2 320.4 since my Eclipse are 4 Ohm and 90W RMS. That's the down side with ohm loads. get a smoking deal on components, and an smoking deal on an amp and at the end, they do not match. I happened to me as well with a deal on 2 smoking Rockford Fosgate Hx2 15's. They were dual 2 ohm and that caused me to have to find a 1 Ohm stable amp. Back in the day, those were expensive. lol. I was sitting on $350.00 worth of subs (2 for the price of one) but no amp. lol. -Frank After a bit more digging, apparently the Infinity speakers aren't 2 ohms but 3 ohms. I ended up connecting them straight to the HU, since Infinity seamed pretty confident the difference in resistance wouldn't hurt anything and so far they seam fine. Based on how they sound on such low power (probably 17-20 rms if we're realistic) I'm thinking 50-60 would really wake them up. I think what i'm going to do at this point is grab a set of 6.5" coaxials to match, toss those in the rear doors, and run the amp 4 channel at 3 ohms or whatever the speakers really are. Thanks for all the advice guys, I've got my direction now. If after dropping in the amp I want more power, I've got something to sell/trade with later, as I'm sure I can get my money back out of the JL amp (what I paid for it.) I guess once I get this audio respectable I'll have to get off my butt and post a build thread. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 How can you tell they were 3 ohm? -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeznutz Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 You know, I used to think that way, amplify all 4 speakers. You're better off running the rears as rearfill, so unamplified. Powering rear fills disturb the orientation of the sound. Sound coming from behind you isn't always good. In other words, you will have no "Front Stage" if all 4 speakers are amplified. My rear are 4" infinity co-axials. They are still clear at a volume of 50 on the headunit. Just enough, but def. not competing with my "Front stage". If they are infact 3 ohm, than you can bridge them as you initially intended, but you'll be barely turning the gain up because you will have a surplus of power. The difference will be about 10 watts I believe. Yes, power will make them come alive. I have to decrease the gain on mine. My ears are ringing from playing my stereo yesterday with the top down. -Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted April 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 How can you tell they were 3 ohm? -Frank Found someone else that installed a set, and like me was concerned about the resistance. His DMM said 2.5-2.7 ohms. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.