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2 Sundown E-15 D2 V2 's bottoming out in sealed box on alpine mrp-m1000


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The topic pretty much says it all. I just installed two sundown E-15's V2s and am running them on an alpine amp which people have benched under 1000 rms yet still I'm getting pretty noticeable mechanical collision. They are individually chambered with a net 2.7 ft^3 each which is pretty close to the 2.5ft^3 recommended on the sundown website. I'm pretty disappointed because I spent a lot of time and money building this enclosure and it sounds amazing, except for the fact that it's bottoming out at anything above 2/3 volume. Even with the car not running and the amp seeing 12 volts the subs just can't seam to handle anywhere near the higher playing levels. I'm on the verge of putting them on the smaller alpine I have and just storing the 1000. This is not what I want to do because the main reason I bought these E's was because I found myself with this amp for a good deal. My friend and I are about to start fiddling with the setup to see if we can't clean it up a little with his DD1, but I honestly don't see how that will help much considering it's hitting mechanical limits.


My plan was to run two older style 12" Alpine Type R's on 500rms each and then the two E-15's also on 500rms each. I have 8 speakers on two amps getting about 70 rms each. Two 1000amp batteries, one in the back on a shelf I built into the box. The setup is in the back of an xj jeep Cherokee running a 136 amp alternator from a newer grand Cherokee with a towing package that I modified the bracket to fit. I also have the smaller pulley from my stock alternator on it so it's technically overdriven as well. I have 1 run of 0 ga kca and 1 run of 4ga kca both running from the distribution block up from to the battery in the back. As of right now I only have the E's installed along with only the front 4 speakers as I've paused my build until I figure this all out.


I appreciate any input anyone might have, I emailed sundown last week but haven't heard back yet. I'm pretty disappointed because from everything I've looked up, and the videos I've seen the sundown crew post themselves, I was under the impression that it would be close to impossible to have the issue I'm having anywhere near rated power. And I'm running both on an amp that I've heard people bench anywhere from 720-980 total output and even on 12 volts am bottoming out :/

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You're in a sealed box? Pictures of box please?

How did you cut the holes for the subwoofer cutout? Did you seal the box well, if so, how? Did you check for air leaks?

Edited by CleanSierra

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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CleanSierra took the words out of my mouth; maybe an air leak. I run well over rated power on my little Image Dynamics ID8, and only time I ever had issues with bottoming out was an air leak. Plugged that up, and she's right back in action.

2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread

2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount.

Build Thread

 

1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 

 

1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. 

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Ok so an update. I don't know how to upload any pictures on here from my phone but I will once I get home. The DD1 had us set the gain to the exact spot I had it when I didn't by ear so that was a joyful moment lol. But that left us at knowing it wasn't the issue. I adjusted all the crossovers and tuned my head unit which has a 7 band equalizer built in and that helped a good bit. It still bottems out on the low notes, but at least it's not bottoming out nearly as bad. I'm going to finish installing the other two sub's and just keep the E's at a slightly lower level for now. The box I built is pretty legit. It's 3/4 MDF gorilla wood glued at every joint, over 150 wood screws, and completely sealed with caulk at every crease just in case the glue wasn't enough. Caulked the wire holes as well as the bolts that bolt it to the vehicle. I even caulked under the entire rim of the sub while mounting to be sure. The R's are in front with a lot of poly fill crammed in to help take up some air space since they're at 1.7ft^3 vs the 1 they're recommended at. All four sub's are chambered separately from each other, again, glue and caulk and all. This box is stiff as can be and sounds amazing. The only issue is the x max on the E's

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Well there's certainly no need for confusion. It's a simple matter, I've had the R's, and I added the E's. I'm a lowly computer science college student who does not have a great amount of funding, hence the Entry level subs to begin with. Also hence why it's the older style R's lol. I definitely agree with you however that if this was a bottom up build there would be no reason not to go all sundown. In fact I'm hoping in the future to replace the R's with either SA-12's or widen the holes and put the E's in with reduced airspace (would probably fix the bottoming out issue actually) and then replace the E-15's with SA-15's. But for now this is my college build lol. IT all bumps pretty dang hard, I'm easily out bumping both of my buddies, one of which has an x-18 on an exile amp at 1600 watts @2 ohms (we know, he shoulda went D2), the other has a zv4-15 on a CT sounds 2500 @1 ohm, so whatever the actual power is on that.

My goal was to use cone area to make a budget build outbump their high dollar single woofer builds. I also wanted to put my friend's mess talking about sealed boxes to rest, he claimed they just cant be loud, I claimed they don't hit as loud as ported at tuned frequency but that they had a better performance curve which is what I want want with my music listening habits, that and in my jeep port noise is really annoying. And I succeeded, It hits hard as hell and damn clean too regardless of if I'm jamming some hood rat shit, or some old school ozzy. I've also been able to adjust most of the bottoming out away, now It's only doing it under 35 hz, which still is annoying but i guess for a 14mm x max is to be expected. I was just hoping for more based on reviews. I'll upload some pics of the build, sorry for the last ones as my camera sucks at night and I had to use whichever came out bright enough to see. Also the clear coat reflects odd in the flash but in person the box is smooth. I base painted the whole box with a gloss black enamel, then the outer 4 panels with a rubberized undercoating which I then hit with a clear coat. That black caulk I used also made easy work of sealing the woofers during install as any that seaped out from the rim simply blends in.

My next steps will be to make the hinged hideaway flap for the battery which I mounted on a shelf I incorporated into the box side, as well as make the "ears" or whatever they are called that will mount flush with the top of the box and fill the gaps to the windows and also hold the four 6x8's I have. I also have distribution blocks underneath the battery shelf, one of which has a voltage readout which I need to mount to the shelf bottom to make nice and clean, but that's all another day. Side note though, running about 2500 rms currently with the subs and just the front speakers and My voltage isn't dropping under 13 which surprises me, Guess all the headroom from the alt upgrade and the extra battery have paid off lol.


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Edited by Stephen Rapp
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Ps, those tires are my "security" system. I don't live in the best area so with the metal sub grills I can easily keep the subs under tires so if anyone were to look in they'd assume its some old lifted jeep with tires in it. 17 inch rim opening though fits right over the subs nicely if only they were spaced apart enough to fit both tires perfectly lol.e9g1.jpg

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Pick one set of subs build a nice box for them and stick with just the one matching pair . Nothing good can come of a bunch of mismatched stuff thrown together like that. I'm not trying to insult you or what you have so please don't be offended. In the long run trust me you will be much happier if you just start over build a nice box for the sundowns and run them on the amp you have.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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Pick one set of subs build a nice box for them and stick with just the one matching pair . Nothing good can come of a bunch of mismatched stuff thrown together like that. I'm not trying to insult you or what you have so please don't be offended. In the long run trust me you will be much happier if you just start over build a nice box for the sundowns and run them on the amp you have.

Yep this is what I was going to say. Build a good ported box for two of them, probably the sundowns, and let it slam. It will be better.

I have found that anytime I have been disappointed in equipment that most people recommend and use, it's because I screwed something up. So basically I'm saying you shouldn't be disappointed in those sundown subs on that alpine amp. So box is the issue here.

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