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Ugh my 3500v2


Jeep03

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So my amp finally made it to North Carolina all the way from texas. I went ahead and sent it in last Monday and it arrived today. I believe Brandon Sparks was the one that contacted me about my amp.

He said he was going to go ahead and warranty it! Woot.

But the problem is he no longer has any 3500 V2's in stock. SO he gave me two options.

Option A: Send it down to texas where they have a repair shop. That will repair my amp free of charge and it will be sent to me in 3-5 weeks.

Option B: Pay $80 and get the new SCV-4000D that is coming out in two more weeks.

I like option B but I dont have much information on except the fact that it cost's $1049 when I payed 1099 for mine.

I kinda feel like im getting jew'd here on the price and they are tying to sneek in the shipping charge as that is a ~$50 difference. I told him I would call him back tomorrow since I was at work at the time.

What should I do here? Need some input on this decision.

I don't even know even these Two x-12's would be okay on rougly 2k a piece 0.o

Edit: Here is all the info i can get on the new SCV line (Sundown Capped Voltage)

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-scv-4000d-4000w-mono-block-amplifier.html

First off i would be happy they warrantied the amp.

Second i would be ecstatic they are giving you options.

Thirdly, $80 to upgrade to the new amp is a steal.

I cant see as to how you would have any complaints. Just because you paid a little more for your amp than the new one, shouldn't even be on your mind. You're getting a newer more powerful amp and being shipped to you. Sundown is treating you excellent in my opinion, you should be stocked.

truthsayer

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professor-farnsworth.jpg

So my amp finally made it to North Carolina all the way from texas. I went ahead and sent it in last Monday and it arrived today. I believe Brandon Sparks was the one that contacted me about my amp.

He said he was going to go ahead and warranty it! Woot.

But the problem is he no longer has any 3500 V2's in stock. SO he gave me two options.

Option A: Send it down to texas where they have a repair shop. That will repair my amp free of charge and it will be sent to me in 3-5 weeks.

Option B: Pay $80 and get the new SCV-4000D that is coming out in two more weeks.

I like option B but I dont have much information on except the fact that it cost's $1049 when I payed 1099 for mine.

I kinda feel like im getting jew'd here on the price and they are tying to sneek in the shipping charge as that is a ~$50 difference. I told him I would call him back tomorrow since I was at work at the time.

What should I do here? Need some input on this decision.

I don't even know even these Two x-12's would be okay on rougly 2k a piece 0.o

Edit: Here is all the info i can get on the new SCV line (Sundown Capped Voltage)

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-scv-4000d-4000w-mono-block-amplifier.html

First off i would be happy they warrantied the amp.

Second i would be ecstatic they are giving you options.

Thirdly, $80 to upgrade to the new amp is a steal.

I cant see as to how you would have any complaints. Just because you paid a little more for your amp than the new one, shouldn't even be on your mind. You're getting a newer more powerful amp and being shipped to you. Sundown is treating you excellent in my opinion, you should be stocked.

Right on I agree! I just feel like the SCV are limting me to ever considering running a higher voltage system.

The scv's cut off at 15.25v from what he told me. ON a hot day in texas I'll read 15.6V from both batteries in which I have to bump a little just to drain them down. So i dont even know if this is a good idea to go with the new line of SCV's

I knew it would be warrantied as I didn't even open it and I knew it wasn't my end that was causing this mess.

I also kinda feel like this is like Ford introducing there "Eco Friendly" vehicles. At least thats what the SCV's sound like.

He couldn't even give me a spec sheet. He just told me 4000W at 1ohm stable. So i dont even know if I could even drop it to .5 or if they will even be strapable! Which I'm sure they will I just want some more info on what I'm about to upgrade for. He said "so and so" posted it on some forum but I just can't find a link of it! :(

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The new amps are much closer to EXACTLY at rated as opposed to grossly underrated from what I remember reading.

And you may not want to hear this, but if you're keeping voltage up THAT high on a stock 120A alt, you're not getting 3500W after impedance rise. So the fact that you're only getting down to 13.1 at the lowest and you're normally I'm the 14s means your amp isn't drawing tons of pretty i.e. not sending power(3500W) to the subs.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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How are you reading higher voltage on a hot day? Usually you will drop a little voltage the hotter the battery is, and gain just a little on cooler days.

As for the .5 0hm ask sundown, they should be able to tell you one way or another.

truthsayer

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Well if it wasn't sending 3500W then maybe it was a faulty amp to begin with. I mean afterall look where it is now.

I run 1/0 gauge by stinger and run the big 3. Hell maybe a bigger alt will have to do to get the full power.

But on hotter days it does run higher. I get out of work and and my SMD volt meter is reading 15.6-15.8 blinking red as soon as i start my car.

Always though it was because heat does expand.

SO i figured a hot day made the energy in my battery expand resulting in higher voltages.

I have a video somewhere on instagram of it reading 15.x volts.

Edit: Tada http://instagram.com/p/nYwZJUOxjd/?modal=true

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No, that's not what I'm saying. If you're only dropping to 13.1, you're not even getting into your battery supply(or just barely depending on where your Kinetics rest). I'm not talking about a faulty amp, I'm saying you're not getting the power because if you WERE, you'd be dropping into batteries. A stock 120A alt is not going to supply enough to keep running purely on alternator, you'd surely be dipping WELL into your reserve if you WERE drawing anything near 3500W.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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Interesting.

My 2400 is in the trunk and I run mayble around 3-4ft of wire straight to the amp. And then around ~15ft from the back battery to under the hood. I have a Hifonics 2400 and right away i noticed the difference between my 3500 and the 2400. I don't even touch below 14 volts with the 2400 and the flex on my vehicle is alot less than the 3500. So I dont know. The only way is to get it clamped I guess but I don't own one.

Anyone from the 361 area xD

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How can your batteries be up to 15 volts if your car doesn't charge past 14.6 like you said?

I just don't get how just because it's hot out your batteries suddenly charge past 15 volts when you start your car?

And do the smd volt meters need to be calibrated? I've never owned one.

And that could be the reason why you don't think you are dropping as low as you were with the 3500

Correct me if I'm wrong

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Stock alt

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