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Removing the backplate of a magnet?


Phaeton

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hey guys, i was wondering how i can take off the backplate on a subwoofer magnet, i have a bunch of magnets that i want to use on a custom subwoofer im building and i have no idea how to get the backplate off without wrecking the magnet and the basket.

1997 subaru legacy outback

Four 15's in a almost wall

Rockford Fosgate t2500-1bdcp

Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on tweets
Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on highs
Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midrange
Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midbass

Optima Yellow top batteries
270A Singer alt (working on a bracket for a second) 
Lots of Second Skin

 

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bump,

1997 subaru legacy outback

Four 15's in a almost wall

Rockford Fosgate t2500-1bdcp

Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on tweets
Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on highs
Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midrange
Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midbass

Optima Yellow top batteries
270A Singer alt (working on a bracket for a second) 
Lots of Second Skin

 

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Don't you have to demag the motor? And even then the layers are prolley glued together

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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Yes, its usually glued on with some sort of epoxy or other stronger glue.

Thing is it will be a pain to get back on and centered correctly.

Depending on the woofer the back plate and pole piece are usually one piece, some manufactures like Fi/AA bolt the pole piece to the back plate as well as glue though.

The major thing here is if you start adding more magnets to the woofer is with every thick magnet slug you add it will make the pole piece of the woofer that much farther away from the top plate and can drastically hurt the woofers performance.

Another thing worth noting is woofers are designed to have all the magnetic force at the top plate around the gap, and you can only saturate the steel top plate so much to the point that all the extra magnet saturation your trying to do will become a m0ot point, especially with the pole piece sitting much lower in the gap then how the woofer was designed by the factory.

So hopefully your playing around with woofers that have literately no value to them.

 

 

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Yes, its usually glued on with some sort of epoxy or other stronger glue.

Thing is it will be a pain to get back on and centered correctly.

Depending on the woofer the back plate and pole piece are usually one piece, some manufactures like Fi/AA bolt the pole piece to the back plate as well as glue though.

The major thing here is if you start adding more magnets to the woofer is with every thick magnet slug you add it will make the pole piece of the woofer that much farther away from the top plate and can drastically hurt the woofers performance.

Another thing worth noting is woofers are designed to have all the magnetic force at the top plate around the gap, and you can only saturate the steel top plate so much to the point that all the extra magnet saturation your trying to do will become a m0ot point, especially with the pole piece sitting much lower in the gap then how the woofer was designed by the factory.

So hopefully your playing around with woofers that have literately no value to them.

pretty much. i was thinking about a quad coil and the magnets like the smd series just to fuck around with, of just taking the backplate off and playing 10hz tones so the coil doesnt mash. i dont know. i tryed to hit a motor with a heat gun and attempted to pry with a screw driver, that didnt work so i took a chisel and hammer. i just destroyed the magnet.

1997 subaru legacy outback

Four 15's in a almost wall

Rockford Fosgate t2500-1bdcp

Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on tweets
Rockford Fosgate T400-4 on highs
Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midrange
Rockford Fosgate T400-2 on midbass

Optima Yellow top batteries
270A Singer alt (working on a bracket for a second) 
Lots of Second Skin

 

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