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DD-1 with factory HU & factory amp....


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Hello, I need help with what I am doing wrong. I have an 04' Cadillac Deville with the factory HU and factory amp (not bose), speaker wires from factory amp to a RF 360.2, then RCA's to a RF T1500-2 & T600-4. I just received a DD-1 so I want to find the max volume of my head unit and I am going to check this through the sub amp. Factory radio and 360.2 are both turned to flat. Amp frequency is set to max, gain all the way down, subsonic off. Red probe in the "A" positive and black to the amp's ground. Track 1, start turning up the volume, signal light is on, 40hz light is on, 1/2 way up or so I get a little red blip from but keep going because light does not stay on constantly. I get the volume turned all the way up to max and no constant red light. So now I try to set the gain on my sub amp, Radio is at max and start track 7, start turning up the gain, 1/4 way up I get the red blip just like you see in all of the videos and keep turning up the gain, I can turn gain to max and the red light never stays on, just the blip, I do have a signal light and the 40hz light, but no distortion light. Should I have flat lined the 360.2 or left it where I had it set to? Someone please tell me what I am doing wrong.

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Dang, no suggestions from anybody?

People do work around here you know.

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Start at the 3.sixty. put the rcas from that straight into the DD1 and you will find you max volume. Make sure everything is flat and off in the 3sixty. Then move on to your amps.

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You can't go from the factory Hu to the processor ??? Why is the factory amplifier needed ???

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You can't go from the factory Hu to the processor ??? Why is the factory amplifier needed ???

this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I speak from experience. SKIP THE FUCKING FACTORY AMP.

Otherwise, I have basically your problems too. But threw out my back and all so ain't got the pain tolerance I guess to figure it all out. But yeah. factory deck to 360.2.

Sheena = pedobear

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Factory HU has a special cable (not speaker wires) that hook up to factory amp. Factory amp is needed to put out a signal through the speaker wires to the 360.2. It has been hooked up this way for a couple of months now working fine, everything is working fine still, i am just having trouble getting the DD-1 to pick up distortion. Also, different warnings run through the amp, like keys in ignition chime, lights on chime.... You have to have the amp if you need a signal to the 360 if you want to use the factory HU.

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They sell wiring conversion harnesses at just about every car audio shop you go into. Most likely, they will have one to adapt the headunit into the processor. The amplifier only amplifies what is comming from the head unit. Nothing more.

All of the "bells and whistles" stuff is comming from the headunit.

You will not need your DD-1 until your processor is hooked up correctly. just because it works the way you have it set up does not mean it's hooked up correctly.

You can possibly google the wiring diagram for that headunit and splice into it yourself. All that is there is similar to RCA outputs and a remote turn on wire from the head unit to the amplifier. I tore into my son's Impalla setup with no proplems and run the factory headuint inputs directly into the 2 channel Kicker amplifier that I won here on SMD SOTM.

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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