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Ok so i just blew up a pair of kenwood 12's(KFCW-3013) that i was running on a 1k alpine(mrp-m1000)

and im looking at replacing them and everyones boasting about how good alpine type R 12's are but i think thats a bit generic..

one one hand they can handle 1k rms but then when you look at the info sheets there only 84.7db/w/m

a bit of research into something a bit more efficient so that i can get more bass without having to up the alternator and amps..

so now i'm interested in a pair of pioneer TS-W3003D4

600w rms, DVC and 96db/w/m!!!

so now i'm sceptical, can a pair of subwoofer with an xmax of only ~13mm really put out 140 odd DB and at that price?

whats everyones thoughts?

cheers

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sorry mate didnt know... so ignoring all brand names etc. what is better off:
96db/w/m
xmax 13.8

600w rms

DVC

or

1000w rms

84.7db/w/m

Linear Excursion: 20 mm

Mechanical Travel: 72 mm

not trying to create an arguement just thought i would post the models up so people could look up the full specs etc.

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All depends on the enclosure, but most people go with more power.

FYI: The linear limits, both electrical and mechanical, don't determine the potential decibels a woofer can output. Way more to it.

Avalanche

Alpine Type S comps

Alpine Type S 10''

Alpine MPR-F300

Alpine MRX-M50

Mechamn 270

XS Power d3400s



 

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Ok so i just blew up a pair of kenwood 12's(KFCW-3013) that i was running on a 1k alpine(mrp-m1000)

and im looking at replacing them and everyones boasting about how good alpine type R 12's are but i think thats a bit generic..

one one hand they can handle 1k rms but then when you look at the info sheets there only 84.7db/w/m

a bit of research into something a bit more efficient so that i can get more bass without having to up the alternator and amps..

so now i'm interested in a pair of pioneer TS-W3003D4

600w rms, DVC and 96db/w/m!!!

so now i'm sceptical, can a pair of subwoofer with an xmax of only ~13mm really put out 140 odd DB and at that price?

whats everyones thoughts?

cheers

You should be asking yourself how you blew your last set of subwoofers, and how many settings you've got wrong in your setup. You also seem to think that looking at the subwoofers sensitivity, you can determine what kind of db score you'd get in your car by adding multiplying the sensitivity and number of woofers? Wrong. Side note, Type R's are very good woofers at the price.

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DISPLACEMENT is the spec you're after to determine which sub can displace the most amount of air. Power, enclosure and design, shoe size, favorite color, and all other random shit affects how loud a sub stage will get. It's not a simple this vs. this type of comparison. Acoustics are a bitch and the moment you think you've learned something, you'll try something else that NEVER should have worked and it will turn your world upside down.

Welcome to SPL where nothing makes any fucking sense.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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all very good info.

but i will say that the rs on clean power can take much more then 1000w.

i had 2 12s in a box that some would put 15s in on 1500w each and they never got stinky.

again clean power is key.

you need to find out why you blew your subs first tho.

werethey used And abused before you got them?

did you clip and boost them to death...

jvc deck

stinger 1800 front

hc 2000 kinetic rear

2 runs of 1/0g

big 3/4

ct 60.4

2 ct 1400.1

ct EXO 15 d1

lots of deadner

type r comps front stage

6 kicker tweets rear stage

lots of great stuff

coming soon

ho alt

more bats

ct comps for front stage

more deadner

sweet amp rack

lots of L.E.D lights

new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out)

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no vs threads

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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