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Changing my amps?


Ninja1990

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My current system is:
2x Alpine MRP-M500 500W RMS @ 2ohms
Each mono runs a Rockford Fosgate punch P3 DVC P3D412, which are 500RMS and peak at 1000 So I can always hit the RMS, but never go higher that that (in theory?). For the longest time I always thought Peak was a junk number that didnt matter but RMS was all you needed to worry about, then I think I learned that it actually has some meaning but RMS is more important?

Mids and Highs:
Alpine MRP-F300
Which I was going to bridge to my tweets (yeah 300W to my tweets)
Alpine MRP-F550
Which was bridged to my mids.
Originally I was under the impression that no one ran rears?
I got rear ended my amp rack broke and my fronts got blown (I was sitting still and she was going 40+)
Her insurance is paying for the repairs, with that money plus my own added funds I have this:

So after looking around researching and talking I came up with this for a replacement.
Rears: Infinity Kappa 693.11i 6x9's (run in parallel @ 2ohms)
Fronts: Infinity Kappa 60.11cs 6 1/2's (run in parallel @ 2ohms)
4Channel: Hifonics ZRX2000.4 4 Channel running fronts and rears @ 500W RMS x 4 @ 2 Ohms
(Those drivers are stable at 2 ohms, the competitors in the class were only 4-ohm stable.

For the subs, same Rockford's 500 Watts RMS 1000 Watts Max
I'm looking to run them both @1 ohm off a single amp. They are Dual 4-ohm, so obviously they run at 2 with the voice coils in parallel, so if I run them both off the same amp it'll be a 2ohm load. (I think)
I'm looking at the Hifonics BRX2000.1D to do that, and before you say "Ew Hifonics?" This series is actually CEA-2006 Compliant

As far as replacing my 4 channel I was looking at the Hifonics 2000W RMS, I listed above because it is 2 ohm stable at 500 x 4.
However that series is not CEA-2006 compliant. Which may or may not be a big deal.
I'd like to be around 2000W RMS total. I think that's the right thing? I'm running 2 channels to the front, one to each crossover, and 2 channels to the back one to each 6x9. I specifically picked all 2 ohm speakers, if I run them in parallel that will drop me to one ohm? If I run them in series then I'm up to 4 ohms? The amp I mentioned before is 500W RMS x 4 @ 2 Ohms, 250W RMS x 4 @ 4 Ohms.

Is there a better amp for around the same price range ($200-$300), I know that's not a lot, I recently learned that you don't need the big names if you know where to look (My former/current system is all Alpine and Rockford Subs).

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I have a Hifonics BRZ1700.1D powering a PowerBass 3XL 1000w rms 15. It's wired @1ohm, I'm getting at least 14v with my electrical system, yielding a solid "1500RMS". To my dismay, the BRZ isn't even moving the now broke in 3XL that much. So either this sub needs like 2000W RMS to bottom out, or this amp isn't doing anywhere near 1500, let alone 1700w. Not sure how huge of a difference there is between the BRZ and BRX but I know they're both MaxxSonics. Not sure if mine is CEA-2006 compliant, I'll look when I get home. All in all, the only Hifonics amp I have ever heard of being GOOD, are the Mt. Olympus amps.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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This is what you should get:

http://store.crescendoaudio.com/symphony-s1500-1/

Closest thing you'll get to 2K RMS @ 1 OHM that is decent and under $300.

I see in your sig you have the Hifonics Elite amp... How are these compared to the BRZ/BRX models? Any more efficient? Was looking at a Mt. Olympus but after this Hifonics, I am skeptical on that.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Its a solid amp if you are running 1 OHM. When I had it running on my single HDS312 it was slamming. Now I have it hooked up at 2OHM and its louder due to the second sub, but they barely move. I have been debating on getting the hifonics atlas or alpine mrx m240.

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Its a solid amp if you are running 1 OHM. When I had it running on my single HDS312 it was slamming. Now I have it hooked up at 2OHM and its louder due to the second sub, but they barely move. I have been debating on getting the hifonics atlas or alpine mrx m240.

See I think my BRZ is kind of opposite for some reason. I had it on an AP 1000w 12 @2ohms and it slammed that sub to almost it's max! I have a PowerBass 3XL 1000w 15 on it now, @1ohm. My voltage is 13.8-13.9 constant at full tilt, but the 15 is barely moving IMO. That's a claimed 1700W RMS to a 1000w sub and I know this PB isn't THAT under rated lol. The Atlas is one of the Mt. Olympus line of amps I do believe. A little more efficient with quite a bit more power as I understand. I was looking at the Colossus for myself, it's a 2ch. competition amp, 2500RMS @ 2ohms.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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You have to be careful with max and peak ratings, depending on the manufacture. It's the difference between a Sony Explode taking more than rated power versus a DC Audio level six take more than rated.

And just and FYI...its just watts, not watts RMS.

Avalanche

Alpine Type S comps

Alpine Type S 10''

Alpine MPR-F300

Alpine MRX-M50

Mechamn 270

XS Power d3400s



 

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Its a solid amp if you are running 1 OHM. When I had it running on my single HDS312 it was slamming. Now I have it hooked up at 2OHM and its louder due to the second sub, but they barely move. I have been debating on getting the hifonics atlas or alpine mrx m240.

See I think my BRZ is kind of opposite for some reason. I had it on an AP 1000w 12 @2ohms and it slammed that sub to almost it's max! I have a PowerBass 3XL 1000w 15 on it now, @1ohm. My voltage is 13.8-13.9 constant at full tilt, but the 15 is barely moving IMO. That's a claimed 1700W RMS to a 1000w sub and I know this PB isn't THAT under rated lol. The Atlas is one of the Mt. Olympus line of amps I do believe. A little more efficient with quite a bit more power as I understand. I was looking at the Colossus for myself, it's a 2ch. competition amp, 2500RMS @ 2ohms.

Yeah, I had a AP 1000w as well. It clips easy and has killed one of my subs and one of my buddies subs when I traded it to him.

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Oh shit a competition amp!!

???

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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