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Want my own SPL meter, as cheap as possible, if possible.


AstoSoup

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I have a blue tooth SPL lab as well. It's been within a db of the term lab. Give or take on certain frequencies. Still very helpful for you to find your peak, and max scores. It does have a averaging measurement as well, but it seems different from term lab. I was able to do consistent 139.9 scores on my SPL lab, went to go on the term lab and did a 138.9. It could have been my nerves getting to me though lol.

Huge pro to me with the bluetooth is that I can just use my phone with it. No fucking with cords or a laptop. Makes metering on the spot a quick job.

By the time you are walking over to the persons car you are metering, you can have it all synched up and recording before you even place it on the glass.

I paid 325 used for mine iirc.

So you're doing 139.9 with them two AQ 12's on 2200+ RMS? Man, i'm starting to doubt I am getting the 140 now, even with the advantage of having the SUV :/ You have more cone area and roughly double the RMS, so I don't see me hitting 140 :(

45.3 @ 48hz and 42.1@25hz ;)

Maybe then.... I do see now that you're sealed, so that makes a little difference. @40Hz, I may be seeing 140.... Will find out in a day or two, have a place that will let me do 5 runs for $25!

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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remember bass brawling is door or window open so you should gain a bit from opening up the car

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Singer 320 amp
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EDIT: Not in a JP kind of way.

I thought I was going to die from all the jizz filling my ears.

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So to sum it up, termlab for accuracy and better features, SPL labs for a cheap alternative? $339 used is a little more than I wanted to spend, but I think my team mates may go in 1/3 with me, if i'm lucky lol. I wish there was a way to buy a cheaper mic, hook it to a PC and at least be within a Db..... If it were only that easy...

IMO SPL Lab meter is far more user friendly than Termlab meter. I'd suggest you wait til mid December and have cash ready. That's the best time to buy used audio equipment. If you're going to own anything at the bottom price that's the time to buy.

That being said, you can look at makeitlouder.com Will has a SPL meter that's quite accurate for measuring peak SPL and you can possibly integrate it with other RTA type software... though I'm not sure if anybody besides SPL Lab and Termlab has a 30 second average feature which will be pretty key.

Really, most importantly is having a remote gain or pre-amp with fine control of sub output and then finding a song that's at or near your peak that has a pretty constant bass line for 30 seconds. If you plan to compete seriously in TNESPL you must own their CD for multi-point events.... get yourself familiar with the tracks they provide that work with your tuning. You may need a lot of headroom to average 140 with their CD depending on your tuning.

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They also have usbs at multi point events. Much better than a CD skipping for 30 seconds lol.

2002 Honda CR-V
Alpine 9887

My Build

Rebuilding...

Second Skin Damp
4 DC XL 15's
2 DC 5ks
Singer 320 amp
6 cap banks
Sky High wire
2 VM-1's
OM-1

all under window line

Team DC Audio

Obama has a law he's trying to pass right now, trying to ban Leo for being a threat to children everywhere.



EDIT: Not in a JP kind of way.

I thought I was going to die from all the jizz filling my ears.

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because over a half db is "as accurate as a termlab" gtfo with that nonsense sales pitch!

4SPL was developed because Termlab is inconsistent and inaccurate. SPL-Lab was originally also more accurate than Termlab but they had to change it to match Termlab numbers because stupid customers were whining about it's "inaccuracy".

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funny you have to cmpare to a termlab whats the benchmark?

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What a dumbass. If your TL is off more or less it can be calibrated. OP, I competed TNESPL a long time ago (and 2 weeks ago here in MD haha) and they use a TermLab. I would really say for best results, get a TL and practice bass brawlin' that way. You could ask Lee or Jer to help calibrate your TL to as close as possible with theirs seeing that would yield similar results; however a SPLab Meter will work still, just not considered "legal" (unless it's a 1x). At the end of the day, either will work, it just takes practice.

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They're both fairly close.... Definitely would do what I was originally asking for, half a Db off or not. Termlab is just the standard for competitions so their results will always be viewed as "most accurate". Just a question, just because the SPL Labs and the Termlab give slightly different scores, what necessarily makes the Termlab right? Couldn't it be that the Termlab is off 1/2 a Db and the SPL labs is dead on? Just a thought, I have no experience with either but the results are awfully close and it seems comparing them is kind of splitting hairs...

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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