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Do these tweeters have a built in X-over?


AstoSoup

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I purchased this set of RF Punch components a while back which came with small passive X-overs.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3141_Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P152S.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&scid=scplp3821624&gclid=CKLNxLbbxsACFSbl7AodiyIAYA

Shortly after, the tweeters that came with the set blew, so I purchased two, Punch Pro bullet tweeters to replace them. They sounded great but once I switched systems to the SUV, I lost the Punch Pro's and the X-overs somehow. Honestly, I think they were stolen from me but that's another story. I now want to purchase these tweeters to replace the Punch Pro's for now. I know, they aren't as good but I heard a pair at a local competition and they sound pretty good for the price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-3-75-AUDIOPIPE-SUPER-TITANIUM-BULLET-CAR-TWEETERS-350-WATTS-EACH-4-8-OHM-/361029522932?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item540f0955f4

My question is, do these tweeters have a built in X-over? They do not say whether they do or not but since I no longer have X-overs and they will share a channel of my amp with the 5.25"s, I do not want to push too low of a frequency to them. I see they have a capacitor on one of the terminals, is this a small crossover? Also, assuming these do have one built in, is there any actual need for an external X-over when my component amp has a HPF built in? I have never ran components and have always used coaxial's up until now, so sorry if this comes off as a dumb question. I assure you, I am only a noob to components lol.

Thanks!

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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You are right that the capacitor attached acts as a crossover. I would still use an external crossover, whether it be passive or active. Tweets are the most delicate of speakers, and need a little protection. In addition to that, "Pro Audio" tweets like that are usually crossed over higher than normal tweeters, like 5-7000hz. They are less able to handle any lower frequencies.

The 2 way passive crossover that you lost split the signal 2 ways- high passed at 3500hz for your tweeter, and low passed at 3500hz for your mids.

The crossover on your amp will obviously only high pass at one set point.

You really should get an external 2 way crossover, AND run the high pass filter on your amp. If you use the amp's crossover only, the high pass point will either be too low to allow the mids to play and blow your tweeters, or too high to protect the tweeters and make the mids pointless.

You set the high pass on the amp at like 80-100hz so none of the component set get low bass. Then the passive further splits that signal to be routed to the mids and tweets.

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You are right that the capacitor attached acts as a crossover. I would still use an external crossover, whether it be passive or active. Tweets are the most delicate of speakers, and need a little protection. In addition to that, "Pro Audio" tweets like that are usually crossed over higher than normal tweeters, like 5-7000hz. They are less able to handle any lower frequencies.

The 2 way passive crossover that you lost split the signal 2 ways- high passed at 3500hz for your tweeter, and low passed at 3500hz for your mids.

The crossover on your amp will obviously only high pass at one set point.

You really should get an external 2 way crossover, AND run the high pass filter on your amp. If you use the amp's crossover only, the high pass point will either be too low to allow the mids to play and blow your tweeters, or too high to protect the tweeters and make the mids pointless.

You set the high pass on the amp at like 80-100hz so none of the component set get low bass. Then the passive further splits that signal to be routed to the mids and tweets.

Thanks for the info! I was kind of afraid of the amp putting too low of a frequency to the tweeters or too high to the mids. Seeing that both will run off the same channels of the amp, really no way to set frequency on both at once, so it makes sense. You say the built in X-overs can cut off at too high of a frequency, what is the normal frequency range for these type of tweets? I hope I find the X-overs around here somewhere and more importantly, my $90 tweeters :/ If I don't find them, are all 2 way passive crossovers, like the two I lost, about the same? I know they all have a max wattage rating but my amp is only 80RMSx4 so I don't see this being a problem. Any other brands/types to stear clear of?

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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  • 3 weeks later...

Just wanted to say I have the punch pro tweets. Great "little" tweets lol. The built in crossovers went bad in them so I took them out and soldered in some new wiring. No crossover since ill be running them active with my 80prs..

Let us know how the new tweets you got work out compared to the punch pro tweets.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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