AstoSoup Posted October 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Looks like you just need to do something like this: 6 inch PVC 13" long would get you right around 32Hz Source: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp Yepp, watched that same tutorial a while back lol. Enough votes for one 6" and it seems to be the norm for a single 15 with similiar Xmax and RMS. Now to Lowes for some 6" PVC Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 One more question before I get into this, should I tune to my gross volume, or net volume? Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainStryke Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 That's a good question... I would tune it to gross, but that's an opinion... Not really sure if that's the correct way to do it or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 That's a good question... I would tune it to gross, but that's an opinion... Not really sure if that's the correct way to do it or not. That is not the correct way, you tune to net airspace. What would you consider ideal? It seems the 8" was too large, IMO. Could have been the box size in relation to port size but when I put that in, I lost some output compared to the two 4". I would have stayed with the 4"s but my lows were chuffing, even with flares on the ends. Really do not care too much about higher bass, just trying get frequencies 30-35Hz, in that area. Honestly the 8" is probably close to ideal IMHO. I'm not sure why the 8" didn't work for you when you tried it but I suspect there was something else going on there. Having more port area than you absolutely need really doesn't have any drawbacks other than it takes up more space. You would have to get ridiculously over-sized before you would start running into issues and an 8" port in a 4.3 cube box is certainly not ridiculously over-sized. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 That's a good question... I would tune it to gross, but that's an opinion... Not really sure if that's the correct way to do it or not. That is not the correct way, you tune to net airspace. What would you consider ideal? It seems the 8" was too large, IMO. Could have been the box size in relation to port size but when I put that in, I lost some output compared to the two 4". I would have stayed with the 4"s but my lows were chuffing, even with flares on the ends. Really do not care too much about higher bass, just trying get frequencies 30-35Hz, in that area. Honestly the 8" is probably close to ideal IMHO. I'm not sure why the 8" didn't work for you when you tried it but I suspect there was something else going on there. Having more port area than you absolutely need really doesn't have any drawbacks other than it takes up more space. You would have to get ridiculously over-sized before you would start running into issues and an 8" port in a 4.3 cube box is certainly not ridiculously over-sized. The previous enclosure was old and weak, started to leak air in a lot of spots and had a rattle, I suspect between the baffle layers. I have also suspected that the enclosure was more of a problem than the port and since there is already an 8" hole in the new box, I could give it a try. If it sounds like poo, I can simply put a reducer ring on and go to a 6". I have no 8" PVC so I will be using Ecoform tube (Sono Tube), any drawbacks here? The Ecoform is much thicker than the Sono Tube brand, nearly as thick as PVC... I will be beveling the port ring for a flare on the outside of the port but see no way to flare the Ecoform, how much drawback do you think that will be? Thanks for your help! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 That's a good question... I would tune it to gross, but that's an opinion... Not really sure if that's the correct way to do it or not. That is not the correct way, you tune to net airspace. What would you consider ideal? It seems the 8" was too large, IMO. Could have been the box size in relation to port size but when I put that in, I lost some output compared to the two 4". I would have stayed with the 4"s but my lows were chuffing, even with flares on the ends. Really do not care too much about higher bass, just trying get frequencies 30-35Hz, in that area. Honestly the 8" is probably close to ideal IMHO. I'm not sure why the 8" didn't work for you when you tried it but I suspect there was something else going on there. Having more port area than you absolutely need really doesn't have any drawbacks other than it takes up more space. You would have to get ridiculously over-sized before you would start running into issues and an 8" port in a 4.3 cube box is certainly not ridiculously over-sized. Oh, I nearly forgot this variable too.... My enclosure is only 18" deep and the length of an 8" port needs to be like 27", which even if the port was partially external, would stick out far enough to where the hatch would not close. Even if the hatch did close, I would have a maximum of 2" between port and loading surface and isn't that supposed to be like 4-6"? Not to mention, the Ecoform I have now is actually 8.5" in diameter, making the length more like 31", lol. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 Oh, I nearly forgot this variable too.... My enclosure is only 18" deep and the length of an 8" port needs to be like 27", which even if the port was partially external, would stick out far enough to where the hatch would not close. Even if the hatch did close, I would have a maximum of 2" between port and loading surface and isn't that supposed to be like 4-6"? Not to mention, the Ecoform I have now is actually 8.5" in diameter, making the length more like 31", lol. Lol, yeah that would be a problem. Its sounds like the Ecoform tube would work fine, if you could fit the darn thing in there. This is the problem with round/aero ports, they always end up being too long to fit where you want them to. At this point I'm not really sure what to tell ya, everything you do is going to be a trade-off in some way, that's just how it goes. The boxes I build I use slot ports because its easy to make them whatever size I want and its easy to put a bend in them so I can get them the length they need to be. I know that aero ports are more space efficient, but once they get long enough that you have to put a bend in them, their advantages kinda go away. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 Oh, I nearly forgot this variable too.... My enclosure is only 18" deep and the length of an 8" port needs to be like 27", which even if the port was partially external, would stick out far enough to where the hatch would not close. Even if the hatch did close, I would have a maximum of 2" between port and loading surface and isn't that supposed to be like 4-6"? Not to mention, the Ecoform I have now is actually 8.5" in diameter, making the length more like 31", lol. Lol, yeah that would be a problem. Its sounds like the Ecoform tube would work fine, if you could fit the darn thing in there. This is the problem with round/aero ports, they always end up being too long to fit where you want them to. At this point I'm not really sure what to tell ya, everything you do is going to be a trade-off in some way, that's just how it goes. The boxes I build I use slot ports because its easy to make them whatever size I want and its easy to put a bend in them so I can get them the length they need to be. I know that aero ports are more space efficient, but once they get long enough that you have to put a bend in them, their advantages kinda go away. The 6" only needs to be 18", which is definitely manageable. What do you think low end output difference would be between the 6" and 8"? I have seen 15's of about the same Xmax, RMS, etc. in both 6" and 8" applications. Sometimes one sounds better than the other, but again could be due to box size. If the difference between 6" and 8" is hardly noticeable, I would just throw some 6" PVC in, flare both ends and be done. I mean, would a 6" flared be more efficient than an 8" non flared, or is flaring not that important? Another thing where it seems to be a 50/50 debate lol.... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 Its hard to say exactly what the difference will be between a 6" and 8" port. All I can tell you is while an 8" port doesn't sound that much bigger than a 6", its nearly twice the port area. Up to a certain amount of power the 6" port will be enough and there shouldn't be any difference at all between how the two will sound. Once you hit a certain point though the port velocities will start getting high enough in the 6" port that you will get turbulence. When that happens it starts restricting the air flow and you have port compression, which will cost you output around your tuning frequency. You will also get port noise around this time too. The more power you put to it, the worse it will be. I can't tell you exactly when that will start happening, but I can estimate than it will be in the 600-700 watt area, this is where port velocities start getting much above 32 meters/sec. Could be more, could be less, but put enough power to it and it will happen. With the 8" port you should be able to put 2000 watts into it if you want and should still be OK. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 Its hard to say exactly what the difference will be between a 6" and 8" port. All I can tell you is while an 8" port doesn't sound that much bigger than a 6", its nearly twice the port area. Up to a certain amount of power the 6" port will be enough and there shouldn't be any difference at all between how the two will sound. Once you hit a certain point though the port velocities will start getting high enough in the 6" port that you will get turbulence. When that happens it starts restricting the air flow and you have port compression, which will cost you output around your tuning frequency. You will also get port noise around this time too. The more power you put to it, the worse it will be. I can't tell you exactly when that will start happening, but I can estimate than it will be in the 600-700 watt area, this is where port velocities start getting much above 32 meters/sec. Could be more, could be less, but put enough power to it and it will happen. With the 8" port you should be able to put 2000 watts into it if you want and should still be OK. So with say, 1200RMS, should a 6" be ok? I was also worried about unloading... I know with the two 4" i got port noise like you mentioned at my tuning frequency but my coil stayed cool and the speaker didn't over stress. With the 8", I smelled the coil get hot briefly a few times before I killed power from the amp, figured this was due to unloading because of too much port area. Hard for me to tell exactly how much port each sub needs. I have used one 4" for one 800RMS 12 and it was fine, although doubled that port area with two 4" on a 1200RMS 15 and it wasn't enough. Tricky equation for sure... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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