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Here's What I Have In My 2011 Chevy Impala

  • Crescendo BC 3500
  • 2 Re Audio Sxx D415 Wired To One Ohm
  • Yellow Top Battery Under Hood
  • DC Power 300 Alt Amp
  • 0 Gauge Wire From Alt Post To Battery Positive & 0 Gauge Wire From Battery Negative Post To Frame
  • 0 Gauge Wire From Battery Positive to Fuse To Cap Then To Amp
  • Stinger Cap

Problems:

  1. Lights are Dimming At Idle And While Driving
  2. Every Since I Put The New Alt On I Been Getting The Service Charging System Message I Think Its Because of The Juice The Alt Is Puttin Out. The Car Hasn't Cut Off On Me Ever Nor Have I Ever Had Problems With It Starting Like A Dead Battery. I Tested The Alt With The Car Off It Read 12.6 Started The Car And It Went To Like 14.5 So Its Charging.
  3. I Think The Cap Is Holding The System Back Should I Remove It?
  4. How Do I Add Another Battery?
  5. I Have the Other Wire For The Big Three Its Just A Pain To Put On On This Car

Any Advice You Experts Can Give Me I Will Be Thankful For It

2011 Impala

pioneer headunit

rockford fosgate rca's

audio control three.2

rockford fosgates T165&T1692

2 re audio sxx 15's

hifonics brz24001.d

crunch 1400.4

audio technix 10ga speaker wire & 0 ga power n ground

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Far from an expert here but will do my best (hopefully some of the vets on here can chime in):

1. Finish the Big3

2. Get rid of the cap and add a battery in the back (run parallel from front batt to rear (+ to +, - to -), fusing within 18 in of front batt, before rear batt, and between rear batt and amp). I would go with a group 31 in the back and maybe replace that yellow top under the hood.

3. Don't base your electrical off of dimming lights.

4. The system message coming on is likely due to the vehicles ELD which can be bypassed with another regulator.

Hope this helps.....and like I said, there are a lot of guys on here with much more experience than me so hopefully others can give their opinions/expertise!

Singer Alternators

Team Asshole

#anothershittysingerbuild

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Ditch the cap, add another battery or two to hold the voltage. Wired in parallel the same way you have your cap. Positive to positive negative to negative. Should get rid of the dimming. Put a fuse within 8 inches of each battery on the power wire, so it should be two fuses per wire. Fuse for the power rating of the wire. As for the message you're getting, someone else will have to help with that.

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Singer 270, D6500 & 2 D3100s, with same amp and I don't drop below 13.8.. As stated, finish big 3, then add another run off alt to a back battery.

33y2914.jpg

Team Subsonic Lows


Get your garbage EMF products of my amp bitch


Man....it makes a nice work bench ;)

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Take cap out

Add second battery, if it's not same model battery I don't know if I would link them, maybe with a battery isolator, they will work in parallel but I don't recommend wiring dif model and age batts together

Lights will dim, but it should be very slight almost unnoticeable

BIG 3 is very important hurry up.

Get rid of the Optima, get 2 matching XS or some nendos

Alt is fine

The L@zy Hoe

 

 

2005 Chevy Tahoe

2,500 Watts of Highs/Mids

4 10 midrange

4 6.5 midwoofers

4 Tweeters

6 Supertweeters

2 Lithium 80AH Batteries

24K Watts

4 Custom 18s

Quad alt setup Rebuilt 250amp and 3 370s

Interior work by Lone Star Auto Works

 

The Build Log

Like Loud Bass? Click Here!

 

On 12/5/2014 at 8:06 PM, juan777 said:

See yall there, I'll be the drunk Mexican with aviators on.

On 12/6/2014 at 10:32 PM, boom50cal said:

I did see Juan LMFAO! He REALLY WAS the drunk mexican with Aviators on!

 
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Singer 270, D6500 & 2 D3100s, with same amp and I don't drop below 13.8.. As stated, finish big 3, then add another run off alt to a back battery.

Bitches love my D.....3400 under my hood

The L@zy Hoe

 

 

2005 Chevy Tahoe

2,500 Watts of Highs/Mids

4 10 midrange

4 6.5 midwoofers

4 Tweeters

6 Supertweeters

2 Lithium 80AH Batteries

24K Watts

4 Custom 18s

Quad alt setup Rebuilt 250amp and 3 370s

Interior work by Lone Star Auto Works

 

The Build Log

Like Loud Bass? Click Here!

 

On 12/5/2014 at 8:06 PM, juan777 said:

See yall there, I'll be the drunk Mexican with aviators on.

On 12/6/2014 at 10:32 PM, boom50cal said:

I did see Juan LMFAO! He REALLY WAS the drunk mexican with Aviators on!

 
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Since his problem is solved, I'm going to chime in on a thread already very close to my problem, rather than start a whole new one, lol. I see that people are recommending many more fuses than what I have in my setup. I have an off brand 1100CCA deep cycle under the hood and my alt. is 130a. Big 3 is done in 1/0 and I have two runs of 2/0 OFC running to the Kinitek HC600 850a in the rear, then 1/0 OFC from the cell to the amp (1700RMS). All I have for fuses are one ANL fuse link in each run of 2ga., about 6" after the battery terminals. Do I need more fusing? If so, where? Also, I was planning on upgrading to an Optima Yellow Top up front, considering this a substantial upgrade. I see now that the Yellow Top is not the way to go, what would be the cheapest good battery for under the hood to supply 2.5-3k RMS? I will also be adding a much larger amp, another HC600 and a large UPS unit battery (not sure on size). Through the years, all of my systems have been less than 800w RMS so this extra power is fairly new to me, I appreciate the help!

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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