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Can you answer all my questions in one thread?


kindofanoob

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I had absolutely no idea where to post this - so I figured 'sq' - sound quality - doesn't really fit but I really didn't want to post in HU, AMP, SUB - etc etc so maybe...all answers can be answered at one time.

name says it all - KIND OF a noob.

I've installed audio equipment in my car before. Was it great equipment? No. Was the work amazing? It was fair. I did it the right way but the equipment was usually highly budget friendly and in cheap cars.

Well, times have changed.

Meat and Potatoes:

I just bought a 2014 Subaru Impreza Sport .

The audio is - unimpressive.

I have made rough decisions on some choices but a lot of things are negotiable or interchangeable.

My budget ranges from $500-1500 (very wide open - but I do like to save money)

I think it would be nice to have a nice subwoofer for some music, but I don't need to go all out 4 15s 10000watts - thats just not me.

I really would like a LOUD system but not in the sense that my entire car is going to flex. I'm 29 with 2 kids - those days are just over.

So here's the questions I have:

1) If I run, and amplify 4 - 6.5 component speakers and 1 subwoofer (ranging from 600-XXXX watts to the sub)

will I need to change anything electrical wise - and by that I mean will I need to run new speaker wire for the component speakers - if I choose a high rms sub will that change anything - my alternator is 90 amps I believe (75 or 90 one of the two)

2) I am interested in doing something with the headrest for my kids so they can watch dvds when they are in the car - but this is one topic that I have not the slightest clue about

3) I would really like to take up the least amount of room in my hatchback for the subwoofer so space is, but isn't an issue - I would really like for it to flow with my car and not be some box sitting in the hatch of my car

So, I know I may look like an idiot here but really - I am just trying to find some legitimate help - google has given me SOME answers but really - theres still things that I just can't get a bead on.

And the more I talk about it, the less confident I feel except the one thing I've pretty much set my heart on is an 8" or 10" sub - and I've really been interested in Sundown Audio for that.

I know that there are multiple opinions on whats good and what isn't - head unit - haven't picked a brand - leaning towards pioneer with 4v outs ....

Uh, and components - really no clue .

Maybe somebody can throw out some answers to all this mass confusion stated above.

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welcome!

1) anything under 1000 watts is generally safe to run on a stock electrical. 1000 watts is kinda the turning point in my opinion. but also it depends on how many features you have in your car. you will be dropping down to battery voltage. if you upgrade anything id get a bigger alt and and upgraded battery. then you could be safe to run 2k.

but if you dont want to flex your car, youd be surprised what a single 8 or 10 in a well designed box can do on 200 watts. if it were me id look into a 500 watt or less sub amp and a 100x4 highs amp. your stock electrical should be fine but it would not hurt to look into tdoing the big 3.

2) any headrest car dvd player. look online. unelss you wanted the monitors integrated into your headrests, well that is custom and youll want to find a shop.

3) a good 8 inch woofer in a good box will give you the output you want in the space you want.

i highly recommend, an alpine type r, a dd 1508 or a JL w3 8. put them on 250-500 rms and be happy. you can always add more power later (mainly to dd) to get louder if needed.

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No you won't have to run new wires for the components.

If you keep your RMS wattage to around 1000 your stock electrical system should handle it. A single sundown SA8v2 is a 500Wrms sub, so that is a good choice.

If you want a sub enclosure that flows with the car then you are talking about a custom enclosure that would be done at a car audio shop. Nothing off the shelf will hold or handle a SA8v2. Double or triple your budget to get a custom built enclosure.

Soundqubed seems to be the best reliable budget friendly company from what I've seen on here. Look to them for amps, component speakers, and they even have a nice 8" sub if you want to keep everything one brand.

There are standalone headrest dvd options that can be done completely independent of the audio install. If you want their functionality to be integrated with your audio system you turn up the cost and complexity 2 fold.

A pioneer head unit would be fine. 4 volt pre outs aren't really necessary.

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It really comes down to how discerning are your ears and your listening taste? There are several good (sort of budget) component sets out there. Lower end morel, focal, etc. You could also build your own component set from places like Parts express and madisound, but then you may have issues finding a good passive crossover unless you run active. It really boils down to how involved a project do you want to tackle. If you pretty much want plug and play there are tons of decent choices out there. Do you have an idea how many watts you want to run for mids and highs? Do you have any brand loyalty/preference for amps? It sounds like you have a good start, but need to hash out the details. Are you having your box built by someone else? if so that may eat into your budget a bit. These are questions that may help people offer suggestions better tailored to your needs.

1997 Lexus ES300

HU - Pioneer MVH 7350

Processor - Helix DSP

Front Stage - JBL P660C

Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4

Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12

Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1

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You should at least upgrade the battery under the hood. A 90 amp alternator wont support more than a few hundred watts.

Good electrical is the base of a good strong system.

Avalanche

Alpine Type S comps

Alpine Type S 10''

Alpine MPR-F300

Alpine MRX-M50

Mechamn 270

XS Power d3400s



 

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I would say big 3 first. Do your system, and if you have voltage drop try throwing a decent AGM in there. Really though ~300-600 watts to a decent sub in the right enclosure will be great for you given your goals. Then a 200-300W amp will get your mids and highs covered.

1997 Lexus ES300

HU - Pioneer MVH 7350

Processor - Helix DSP

Front Stage - JBL P660C

Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4

Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12

Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1

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Welcome.

Bread and butter stealth system, kinda my thing and what most of the market actually wants, not like the nutjobs around here :nuts: :

Front components ($200-400)

Rear coax ($60-100)

Single sub ($100-200)

Five channel or 4ch+1ch amps. ($200 for a PPI Black Ice, quite a bit more for a better brand)

Big three ($100)

Power and signal cables ($150-200)

And your choice of stock HU or aftermarket. ($100 or more to keep stock, more for aftermarket)

Custom box ($???)

Will be tough under $1500 with a custom box unless you have some gear left over or find some decent used stuff. Can be done with a line like PPI, just realize the shortcomings of gear in that price range before you start.

Where are you located?

Static drops are my bag.

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On a $1500 max budget I wouldn't even suggest messing with your rear door speakers. I would just go with a decent set of components and a decent sub with a 3-5 channel amp. I would go with a single 10" like the new JL Audio 10TW1-4, I've heard it and even in a tiny box with a small amp it gets the job done. For components there are many options, personally I would go with Hybrid Audio Imagine I61-2. You'd be hard pressed to find better sounding speakers for the money.

I'm not familiar with the factory infotainment system in the 2014 Impreza but unless you want to double your budget you'll probably want to keep the factory headunit. There are many options for factory integration but personally I highly recommend considering a good processor like the Zapco DSP-Z8. You'll need to increase your budget a little to fit it in, but in the end I think it's well worth the investment. If you are set on your $1500 budget then you can use a line level converter or high level inputs if your amp(s) have them. Oh and if you want headrest monitors on the same budget, I'd save a little more and plan on $2000-2500.

You'll probably be able to save some money if you search for the lowest prices on the internet, just pray nothing is defective, or fraudulent.

'99 Chevy Blazer 4 door 4x4


HU: Pioneer, DEH-80PRS


Front Stage: Hybrid Audio Technologies, Legatia L3v2 and Dayton Audio Reference 7" mid-bass


Sub Stage: Hybrid Audio Technologies, Clarus C12SW-D2 in a 30hz quarterwave transmission line (plays down to 17hz!)


Amplifier: Addictive Audio 7.4+35.1


Processor: Zapco DSP-Z8

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you guys on here are insane! really? 1500+ for a good audio system? i know you 'get what you pay for' but this is a daily driver to and from work - to say I can't get a reasonable and good audio system for sub 1500 just seems like fanboys and audio 'enthusiasts' trying to push an agenda rather than provide reasonable suggestions.

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