AstoSoup Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 Adding a second PowerBass 3XL 15 to my 2003 Ford Explorer XLS 4 door. Currently, the one sub faces up and the port fires towards the rear, maybe 6" from the hatch. I have designed a new box, done my dimensions, tuning, etc. but am not sure how I should face the subs for the most SPL. What is everyone's opinion, subs up and ports back, or both the subs and ports back? Will be a 10 cube box with two, 6" aero ports. I have heard keeping the subs and ports on the same plain is the best but some people disagree.... What do you guys think? Thanks! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 Sub up/port back is proven, and very popular. I've also heard a few good things from sub/port back though. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSD POWER007 Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 I run subs up port back in my Excursion. Definitely the best in my case. I tried all ways possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 Seems to be the way I see most SUV's. Don't want to build this box twice so wanted to make sure. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 I don't know those subs but 2 6" aeros might be a bit small. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 I don't know those subs but 2 6" aeros might be a bit small. I have had the one with two 4" aeros, one 8" aero and currently, one 6" aero. Sounds best on a single 6", almost as good on two 4" but on the 8" aero, it was a lot of air sound and no output. I figured two subs, two 6" aeros should be the same outcome as one with the one 6", right? Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 Like I said I don't know those subs but it seems most of the better no builders on here use more then that for just about any 15". If you've tried more and less port area and are happy with what its at I'd go with that. Its about what you like t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 Like I said I don't know those subs but it seems most of the better no builders on here use more then that for just about any 15". If you've tried more and less port area and are happy with what its at I'd go with that. Its about what you like It seems to sound good with the 6". I am lacking lows, especially seeing the low Fs of the sub but every sub I have put in the vehicle peaks high, I think because of resonant frequency. Anyhow, having two 6" ports for two subs will give each sub the same amount of port space as the one has now with one 6", right? Just making sure that logic is true.... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted November 29, 2014 Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 It seems to sound good with the 6". I am lacking lows, especially seeing the low Fs of the sub but every sub I have put in the vehicle peaks high, I think because of resonant frequency. Anyhow, having two 6" ports for two subs will give each sub the same amount of port space as the one has now with one 6", right? Just making sure that logic is true.... What tuning frequency are you shooting for? Also, when you tested out different port sizes how exactly did you do that? I'm just curious about your testing methods. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2014 It seems to sound good with the 6". I am lacking lows, especially seeing the low Fs of the sub but every sub I have put in the vehicle peaks high, I think because of resonant frequency. Anyhow, having two 6" ports for two subs will give each sub the same amount of port space as the one has now with one 6", right? Just making sure that logic is true.... What tuning frequency are you shooting for? Also, when you tested out different port sizes how exactly did you do that? I'm just curious about your testing methods. Shooting for around 30Hz. I tested by changing the port diameter only, leaving the tuning frequency the same with each size/quantity. The 8" port was in a different box, but the same cu. ft. and same distance between rear wall and port... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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