Audioholic Posted December 15, 2014 Report Share Posted December 15, 2014 This my 2nd time doing custom speakers application for my tahoe however the 1st time was relatively easy (2) 6-1/2's per door mocked up mdf screwed/ glued frame to door panel fiberglasse d bond sand painted looked goo for about a year then edges started separating and lifting from the pleather and or vinyl. . 2nd time around I frame up (1) 10 (4) 6-1/2 and (4) tweeter per door same procedure as previously done.. Here is my dilemma the edges are separating from the vinyl already idk where I went wrong I was just preparing to get the doors paint or covered when I notice the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audioholic Posted December 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 Does anyone have any helpful suggestions to fix this issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigManAC Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 What do you mean by edges? Was it supposed to be permanent or removable? 2001 Saturn L200-Sony MEX-BT4100PFRONT STAGE:- (4) Crescendo PWX 6- Cadence XA250.2SUB STAGE:-Fi Audio BL 15 (Sealed Off)-Crescendo BC2kELECTRICAL:- Singer 240A alt - XS Power D3400- SkyHigh OFC power/speaker wire- Big 3 with SkyHigh 0gaugeBuild Log: Click HereScores: 146.5db @ 29hz Outlaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 What adhesive did you use for the vinyl? Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moredbs Posted December 16, 2014 Report Share Posted December 16, 2014 pics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audioholic Posted December 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 What do you mean by edges? Was it supposed to be permanent or removable? where the bondo taper off to a smooth and even finish on the vinyl I believe it call feather edge in the auto body world. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audioholic Posted December 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 What adhesive did you use for the vinyl? I didn't apply the vinyl to the door yet that the next step if I don't decide to paint them. The bondo is lifting from the factor vinyl even after I scuff and cleaned it with alcohol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audioholic Posted December 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 pics? whats up D check your mail I sent the pics I cant figure out how to do it on the tread with my note 3.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandpride684 Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 Grind the edges down and re apply bondo.... Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jk13 Posted December 18, 2014 Report Share Posted December 18, 2014 ^^^Agree but grind into the door material a bit so the bondo/marglass retains some thickness at the edge. 1/16" to 1/8" or so is all it should take. Also grind it with a heavy grit--I use 24 grit discs on a right angle air grinder--so it has some tooth for the material to grab on to. Also drilling a couple holes an inch or less away from your edge will allow some material to ooze through and grab that way too. Mask the line you want with a couple layers, take your time, and create that sunken edge. It'll also give the material two surfaces to bond to, the flat and the lip you made, plus the holes if you if you do it that way. Feathering out works great on body panels but something that gets slammed repeatedly (or takes the pounding of a 10" woofer) like a door needs a bit more robust edge. Static drops are my bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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