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custom tahoe door panel help


Audioholic

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This my 2nd time doing custom speakers application for my tahoe however the 1st time was relatively easy (2) 6-1/2's per door mocked up mdf screwed/ glued frame to door panel fiberglasse d bond sand painted looked goo for about a year then edges started separating and lifting from the pleather and or vinyl. . 2nd time around I frame up (1) 10 (4) 6-1/2 and (4) tweeter per door same procedure as previously done.. Here is my dilemma the edges are separating from the vinyl already idk where I went wrong I was just preparing to get the doors paint or covered when I notice the problem.

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What do you mean by edges? Was it supposed to be permanent or removable?

2001 Saturn L200
-Sony MEX-BT4100P
FRONT STAGE:
- (4) Crescendo PWX 6
- Cadence XA250.2
SUB STAGE:
-Fi Audio BL 15 (Sealed Off)
-Crescendo BC2k
ELECTRICAL:
- Singer 240A alt

- XS Power D3400
- SkyHigh OFC power/speaker wire
- Big 3 with SkyHigh 0gauge
Build Log: Click Here

Scores: 146.5db @ 29hz Outlaw

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What do you mean by edges? Was it supposed to be permanent or removable?

where the bondo taper off to a smooth and even finish on the vinyl I believe it call feather edge in the auto body world. .
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What adhesive did you use for the vinyl?

I didn't apply the vinyl to the door yet that the next step if I don't decide to paint them. The bondo is lifting from the factor vinyl even after I scuff and cleaned it with alcohol.
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^^^Agree but grind into the door material a bit so the bondo/marglass retains some thickness at the edge. 1/16" to 1/8" or so is all it should take. Also grind it with a heavy grit--I use 24 grit discs on a right angle air grinder--so it has some tooth for the material to grab on to. Also drilling a couple holes an inch or less away from your edge will allow some material to ooze through and grab that way too.

Mask the line you want with a couple layers, take your time, and create that sunken edge. It'll also give the material two surfaces to bond to, the flat and the lip you made, plus the holes if you if you do it that way.

Feathering out works great on body panels but something that gets slammed repeatedly (or takes the pounding of a 10" woofer) like a door needs a bit more robust edge.

Static drops are my bag.

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