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What is everyone using to screw subs in??


Pioneerchuck

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Spax #14 multimaterial construction

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

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There are lots of different opinions on this topic. I've been trying all kinds of different stuff and I'm yet to settle on one thing.

I know lots of folks use the big spax or deck screws, and they certainly work. My problem with them is they are generally flat head, which means the area of the screw that contacts the mounting flange is tapered resulting in a very small contact point. That just rubs me the wrong way so I prefer fasteners with a flat contact area. So I stick with round head, pan head, and socket head screws.

If you want to screw directly into the wood these work well, though I wish they were a littler larger and longer:

http://www.parts-express.com/m5-x-30mm-cap-head-wood-screws-black-100-pcs--081-312

If you want to use a socked head cap screw and some kind of threaded insert these are my favorite:

http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-1-4-20-barbed-body-insert-nuts-50-pcs--081-1096

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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By far I've used course thread drywall screws and haven't had any issues. But then again, by far I haven't ran a setup over 1,000 rms. So I can vouch for them in a lower power setup, they'll work fine.

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I prefer bolts/t-nuts because when you have to remove and replace them they hold up better than a screw going through MDF. Plus they dont strip as easily as screws do.

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  • 1 month later...

Use 1/4-20 size hardware, t-nuts are pretty standard, for the bolts I'd suggest socket head cap screws.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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