blanestudly Posted January 27, 2015 Report Share Posted January 27, 2015 I have a 2000 nissan maxima with 250,000 miles on it. I'm sorry if this gets long but it needs to be detailed. When i first start my car it turns over and starts running instantly, no sluggishness and all. It revs up and sits at 1200 rpm for about half a minute. It then drops (how low it drops depends on how cold it is) low and jumps up and down trying to keep a constant idle. I need to sit in my car until it heats up to press on the gas when it starts to dip past where it wont save itself. if I press constantly to keep it at 1500 or so, it will stay there a little, but then drop or raise, without me changing my foot position. Recently more than before, seems to be misfiring a little. it chugs a little bit. I paid way to much last year for a shop to fix it. they cleaned off some valves i guess (not sure if IAC valve). It didnt work so they attempted to send it to a nissan dealer for what seems like idle learning. they were going to reprogram it because they figured that was the problem. They didnt even have the system anymore i was told? It is usually fine to idle as soon as the temp needle moves past the bottom line however continues to rough idle until completely at running temp. I've done research and some people say it could be upper and lower head gaskets, IAC. Could it be my spark plugs (even tho the looked fine when i checked them last year?) anything with my electricals? Maybe my injectors? any thoughts? I will also post what the problems fixer was because there has been plenty of topics like this with no final "what worked". Please do what you can and thank you very much. sorry if there were any errors. feel free to ask questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pariah Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Without scan tool data, it will be very hard to diagnose. My first thought would be ignition coil(s) or camshaft position sensor. If there are no DTCs, a screen shot of live data would be useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRON Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 What about the EGR valve, or does your car have that? I had a Mazda that would idle funny and replacing the EGR valve fixed the problem. One thing I will say is don't fuck around with the throttle body at all. I did to my Mazda and it fucked up so bad it had to get put on a flow bench or something to have it fixed. Costly mistake. Avalanche Alpine Type S comps Alpine Type S 10'' Alpine MPR-F300 Alpine MRX-M50 Mechamn 270 XS Power d3400s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blanestudly Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Without scan tool data, it will be very hard to diagnose. My first thought would be ignition coil(s) or camshaft position sensor. If there are no DTCs, a screen shot of live data would be useful. i already messed with my throttle body. its fine. the car isnt spitting out codes, and the egr was last year but not anymore? some of my friends said possibly vacuum leaks too? which i do have but idk if it would do that?? i could video and send a link of the data? later today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 You could have a slow oil pump not sending oil up into the engine fast enough. Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith77 Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Need scan tool data. and codes. I could rattle off a ton of different things to go and try. But you will end up spending more money tossing parts at it. Look up online in your area for a good independent shop. Pay for the diagnoses and decide from there if you want to have them work on it after Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born. My penis is bigger than your penis I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I would replace all the cracked vacuum lines first and go from there, spray some starting fluid near the lines and see if the engine revs up to locate your leak. Start with the easy and cheap things first before going into more costly paths to check. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Need scan tool data. and codes. I could rattle off a ton of different things to go and try. But you will end up spending more money tossing parts at it. Look up online in your area for a good independent shop. Pay for the diagnoses and decide from there if you want to have them work on it after I didn't read where the op said the "check engine" light is on for diagnostic test ??? Could have missed it with this shitty phone ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith77 Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Need scan tool data. and codes. I could rattle off a ton of different things to go and try. But you will end up spending more money tossing parts at it. Look up online in your area for a good independent shop. Pay for the diagnoses and decide from there if you want to have them work on it after I didn't read where the op said the "check engine" light is on for diagnostic test ??? Could have missed it with this shitty phone ... It doesnt say that but by everyting they said it should be on. If its not on there may be a stored codes in the history or pending. Also if its not on data off the scan tool will help. Looking at short and long term fuel trims. I could go on for ever. Thats cool. Im way too old to be upset by shit like that. Your name is winston. Your own parents hated you even before you were born. My penis is bigger than your penis I'm far from loud and my roof/headliner flaps around like Adam's ass on a windy day. I think it depends more on the structure of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blanestudly Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I have a computer scan tool. there is no codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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