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2 lvl 3 15's think my box isnt cutting it


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I got a couple questions for you because you can take so many different paths right now..



1. Do you want time with a term lab mic because you want to experiment to make it "louder" or just get a number out of curiosity? or is your ambition to compete in sanctioned events?


2. When you close the rear hatch, how many inches space is there from your subs to the rear of the vehicle?


3. What is the make and model of the head unit you are using?


4. Whats the width, depth, and height of the cargo area in your suv? Just curious of how much room you got to work with.



I dont want to speculate too much until I understand the goal you are looking to obtain. Personally I would be building a box for one sub and wire it series to provide a 4ohm load for that amp. Give one sub 1200 watts rms, and ensure I'm not sending a clipping signal to those subs. With this new box, you can move it around much easier when you go to the term lab mic and it easier to experiment with side firing, rear firing, up firing.... Then when you purchase a new amp you can build a box that will support both 12's, or possibly the box you built allows for you to built another identical and fit both back there. From the countless experiments I've done, when I had full time access to a pressure mic, I found that in every SUV I tested the sub facing upwards and the port facing towards the rear was putting out the highest numbers on the term lab.

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I want time on the term lab for one out of curiosity and because ive never been metered before by a legal metering system. Also the other two I want to experiment to make it as loud as possible and I would like to compete in local shows and events and be competitive in my respective class ,I am not trying to travel the country to compete or anything though.

when the rear doors are closed from the top of the surround to the face of the door is 6 inches 7 from the port face.

The headunit I am running is a Kenwood Excelon kdcx896.

the cargo areas width is 47 inches the depth is 30 inches from back of 3rd row seat to inside door face and the height is 34 inches(only because thats really all I am willing to sacrifice or else I would just build a wall lol)

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I would think with one amp and two 15's you would want to try to meet the standards of competing in street B class? Be sure that your box and subs do not exceed the bottom of your rear windows. If your box or subwoofer extends taller than the rear windows you will be in super street. Until you got a bigger amp I would drop one sub and drop the second battery and you could compete in street A... thats your choice though.

With limited access to a meter, purchase some round ports(aeroports). Whichever box you decide to build, size and which way it fires, you could bring a cordless drill with you and pop out one set and put in the other. Get really ambitious and leave the ports full length and bring a hacksaw and cut of an inch at a time and retry. If the readings keep going up, keep cutting away. When you start to lose db's, cut your second set to the best length and you got your new box. If you are going to build a slot ported box, take the advise of the people who have responded to you and build a smaller port and tune higher. If you are building multiple boxes and experimenting a bunch I would skip doing the box mods for now and not glue the box together. This way when you determine the box you are going with you may go back and 45 your corners, brace your port, flare ports, and baffle sub mounts. When you get the internals figured out check out Mark of CAF, if you havent already, and learn some router skills to add to your installs.

Just a side note... that box you already have there. Can you take it apart and bring that outside wall in two inches and shorten the length significantly? This will increase your net volume as well. PM me if you would like more specific directions or help with box design. You can copy it exactly or you can use one thing you like about it and adapt into a box design you make yourself, either way would be fine with me. I'm just waiting for my season to finish up and being lazy designing a few install I got to get started when I get home from this hitch at work. Just because I'm confident my advice for you does not mean it is necessarily the best or the only way to do things... I've been lead many directions over the years from many different people and I based my own knowledge from experimenting and experiences. Good luck with build and keep us posted.

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I'm going to give a dissenting opinion and say leave your port area where its at. Decreasing your port area isn't going to help you one bit IMHO. Could you guys recommending he reduce his port area please explain to me how that will improve "cone control" without killing output around tuning?

I will agree with what others said about making the box bigger though. I also would check your tuning. Just because Torres says it should be something doesn't guarantee that's what it is. I would not be surprised if you are tuned a good bit lower than you think you are, which could be a big part of your problem.

More power never hurts either :-)

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

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So a little update I found a local shop with a term lab and got to play around with it a little bit the JBL is only clamping 716 watts the loudest tone was 41 hz of a sweep from 30-45

143.5 db. I haven't changed anything about the box as of yet, I wanted to establish a bass line (see what I did there lol) SO now I will be modifying the port giving them a little more airspace and bring the port size down to right around where it "should" be. after doing this mod and metering again I will be glassing the inside of the box after 45ing the corners and go from there. Any opinion on CT sounds 4000.1d amp?11081447_874347989273999_677851023241274

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