Andrew Storlie Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 ok, to start i want to reiterate that is for an SQL build, i have a car for SPL already. i have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a stock set up besides the HU so its time to upgrade now that its getting nice outside. the "PLANNED" set up as i have no bought anything yet.... FRONT set up: (per door) 6" dayton RS150-4 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rs150-4-6-reference-woofer-4-ohm--295-372 Air Motion Tweeter http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-amt-mini-8-air-motion-transformer-tweeter-8-ohm--275-095 3500hz 2way passive cross http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-xo2w-35k-2-way-speaker-crossover-3500-hz--260-146 Sub stage: SINGLE 12" sub http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512 AMPS.... either 1xAlpine PDX-F4 100rmsx4 http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-f4/ 1xAlpine PDX-M6 600rmsx1 http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-f6 OR a single 5 channel amp 1x Alpine PDX-V9 500rmsx1, 100rmsx4 http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-v9 im concerned that with a 5 channel amp the SQL and power will suffer when bass hits. but that 5ch from alpine is perfect specs the box im looking for is a box that is probably a T-Line with a flatter response. i have 44" wide and upto 30" deep, would like to keep the box 14" tall or under. port and sub both facing back Im VERY open to changes or modifications. i have a stock alt (95A) and batt, but i will be swapping the hood batt for the largest xs power that will fit to make sure i have 0 voltage drop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Storlie Posted April 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 this is what i have planned so far... thoughts tuning is 30Hz port area is 76in^2 port length is 115.125" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 What sub are you planning on using? Your link to the sub just goes to the crossover page. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Storlie Posted April 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-um12-22-12-ultimax-dvc-subwoofer-2-ohms-per-coil--295-512 my bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 Have you modeled your sub design in something like Hornresp to see what frequency response you should get? "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Storlie Posted April 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 i tried using winisd but it dosnt have stuff for a tline, i know the sub fs is 24.9hz but i cant fit that big of a box so i set the tuning to 30hz which should be low enough to play music on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 If you taper the line so it gets smaller towards the open end you can shorten it some and retain the same tuning. Both the taper and shortening it will save you space. If you are serious about building a T-line and want to get decent frequency response out of it you really should learn to model it in Hornresp. T-lines are super easy with Hornresp. To help you get started, here is what you have designed so far: And here is the frequency response: Not terrible, but you will have a pretty big peak in output by the time you factor in cabin gain. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Storlie Posted April 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 how do i convert that info in to building a box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 S1, S2, S3, etc are the area of your line. Hornresp is metric only, so 76 sq in = 490 sq cm. The "Par" field is the length of the line between segments. You sub sits at segment S2. There is about 15 cm before your sub in the line, and about 277 cm after, so the total line length is 292 cm (~115 in.). If you want to learn more about using Hornresp, this will help you: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/36532-hornresp-dum-hmm-everyone.html Its a VERY powerful program, while not as intuitive as WinISD, its not hard at all if you put a little effort into learning it. IMHO I would NEVER build a t-line w/o modeling it first. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Storlie Posted April 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 ive been looking at your boxes and they are nice. how would i inquire about buying a box? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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