Jump to content
Sonic Electronix

What should I do next for my truck? I have a few options.


What to do next  

9 members have voted

  1. 1. Which is my best option

    • The big three, with Knukonceptz Kolossus 1/0 OFC, $60
    • Build my front stage(buy another amp, but comps), most expensive
      0
    • Sound deaden with maybe "Kno Knoise" etc.. $$
    • Other (post below)


Recommended Posts

So I recently just got done building my first box for my tow 10 inch SSA Dcon's to go in the back of my 2004 Dodge ram 1500 Quad cab. The box turned out amazing though it did take up the entire back seats, im am very satisfied with the it. I have a Pioneer HU with 2 sets or RCA's at 2v. With 2 SSA Dcons on a soundqubed 1200.1 with Knukonceptz 4 gauge. I have factory speakers, though it has the premium audio crap ( a stock 240w amp) and a 7 speaker setup. I have 6x9's in the front doors, three 3.5 inch's in the dash and 5.25 in the rear doors.

I'm now onto my next project and not sure what i will benefit most with. I will list some of my concerns for each. With the next box, things rattle, the door panel in front of the port (side ported) rattles, mostly the lock. Not only would sound deadener help with vibrations but i heard you can gain SPL because output isn't lost due to vibrating stuff. It would also help the door speakers because they wouldn't have big openings in the door. This option isn't the most expensive but its not the cheapest either.

Next option would be the big three. The cheapest option. I would use KnuKonceptz Kolossus 1/0 OFC wire. I have a factory 136 amp alt. I use to get light dimming, and now only get it every now and then. I have had times were it seems to pull so much the head unit and amp shut off, and the car continues running. The only way to get it to come back on is to turn the car off and back on. This has only happen if im idling and really beaten them. Plus it takes power to make power. So if i could maybe clear some voltage drops up that wouldn't be so bad.

The last option would be to take out all the speakers, except rear, and replace with aftermarket comps. This is clearly the most expensive option. I have heard of people putting 6.5 inch speakers in the front doors instead of 6x9's for mid range or mid bass. I would flush mount the tweeters in the pillars. Looking at the Soundqubed QC-HF6.5 components or the crescendo CZ 6.5 v2 ( when they come out). amp wise im thinking a PPI phantom 900.4, i have seen so much positive feedback about this amp and found one for a sold deal. The amp would also power each 3.5 inch speaker in dash, once i find some. any input on any of this so far? only questions on that is would the 900.4 be to much power, 145W @ 4 ohms on only 100w comps? and I only have one set of RCA's left on my HU and the amp requires 2 from the looks, could i get a Y splitter?

Either way im looking to do one of these options. Should I do the big three and solve some light dimming and occasional shut down and clear some voltage drop. Should i sound deaden the doors and stuff so nothing vibrates, and maybe get some more output of all my speakers, OR should i totally redo all the speakers and stuff go for better mid range and high frequencies stuff. The last option would take some more time due to it being more costly. But any input would be great

Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4.7L
HU: Pioneer DEH X6600BT
Box/Subs: 2.9 cubes @33hz/ 2 10" SSA DCONS (SOLD! now AB XFL 15's)
Sub Amp: Soundqubed Q1-1200D @1 ohm (replacing with FSD 2600)
Component: Stock for now
Component Amp: Stock for now
Wiring for amp: SHCA 1/0 OFC
Under the hood: Stock 136 amp alt/ Big three with KNU OFC 0guage (replacing with 160amp)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would upgrade battery power.

Just saying ...

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would upgrade battery power.

Just saying ...

I even thought about it, are you talking about adding a second battery or just upgrading under the hood? what benefit would that do for me? The only benefit i could think of was to hold more juice.

Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4.7L
HU: Pioneer DEH X6600BT
Box/Subs: 2.9 cubes @33hz/ 2 10" SSA DCONS (SOLD! now AB XFL 15's)
Sub Amp: Soundqubed Q1-1200D @1 ohm (replacing with FSD 2600)
Component: Stock for now
Component Amp: Stock for now
Wiring for amp: SHCA 1/0 OFC
Under the hood: Stock 136 amp alt/ Big three with KNU OFC 0guage (replacing with 160amp)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just tested voltages, with the car off it stands at 12.2v and the lowest it hit with music was around 11.86v

With the car on it stands at 14.02v and while playing music the lowest it got 13.6v

with it running at 1500-2000 rpms the lowest it dropped was 13.8v

These are rough estimates i was playing it a little before testing but it wasnt long, im kinda feeling like i need the big three the most

Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4.7L
HU: Pioneer DEH X6600BT
Box/Subs: 2.9 cubes @33hz/ 2 10" SSA DCONS (SOLD! now AB XFL 15's)
Sub Amp: Soundqubed Q1-1200D @1 ohm (replacing with FSD 2600)
Component: Stock for now
Component Amp: Stock for now
Wiring for amp: SHCA 1/0 OFC
Under the hood: Stock 136 amp alt/ Big three with KNU OFC 0guage (replacing with 160amp)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The big three because it's the first thing that should be done when any system is installed.

It's where you should have started in the first place.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im thinking that is the route i need to go, you say battery if needed. How do i know when i need another one?

For the big three would a 300a fuse be fine?

Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4.7L
HU: Pioneer DEH X6600BT
Box/Subs: 2.9 cubes @33hz/ 2 10" SSA DCONS (SOLD! now AB XFL 15's)
Sub Amp: Soundqubed Q1-1200D @1 ohm (replacing with FSD 2600)
Component: Stock for now
Component Amp: Stock for now
Wiring for amp: SHCA 1/0 OFC
Under the hood: Stock 136 amp alt/ Big three with KNU OFC 0guage (replacing with 160amp)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Should be plenty. And just monitor voltage, if your constantly dropping into the low 12s or high 11s you need more electrical. If u decide u want to do shows/comps which will all be at idle most of the time, then your gunna need to upgrade that electrical even more.

Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-

Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) 

Subs/Amps: TBD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No reason to fuse any higher than your current demand or possible supply as long as it doesn't exceed your wires current carrying capabilites.

If your factory at were say 140 amps there isn't really a reason to fuse higher than say 150 amps even if the wire is rated for more.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Voted. I am huge believer in sound deadener but also you should do big three. Pet pieve of mine when people build a stereo in their vehicle with no deadener then think they will do it later. My last 5 vehicles I have gutted all interior and sound deadened just in chance that I would have stereo and I ended up having stereo in all of them. Kind of my own opinion when it comes to deadener and I add it to interior pieces and other stuff as well, I hate noise other than what I want to be listening to.

On the other hand with any upgraded car stereo I believe the big three is highly recommended when adding to the electrical system.

Yes, deadener is added cost you can get away with not doing.

Big three, "takes power to make power" granted you aren't adding any power with it but for what it costs and what it does it is always my first electrical upgrade.

I would do one of those two things first if it was me, or both, worry about the next steps later (front stage, amp etc.)

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 405 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...