Mr DeeBeez Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 I will be running an fi sp4 15 powered by a sound qubed 3500.1. I have a 240a mechman alt, and an xs power d3400 under the hood, along with an xs power xp3000 and a kinetik hc1400 in the trunk. I have 2 runs of sky high 0 gauge from front to back. When I was doing some testing before, my back battery bank was dropping to 12v, while my front battery was holding 14.4. It was like they were isolated from each other, but the back bank would charge up to 14.4 when no load was on it. I will be adding 2 ground runs shortly, and I'm hoping that solves the problem, but I'm curious if I need (or if it would help) if I ran a wire from alternator positive to back batteries. Also, when fusing the runs going to the back battery, is a 250a fuse enough for each run? Amp is rated at 380a, but some say 200 per run, some say more. Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebirdude Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 The fuse is there for the wire, not the amplifier. Let's get that straight first off. It makes no difference what the amplifier pulls. And how long are your runs? We talking 13ft? 18ft? If all your batteries are connected in parallel, then your back batteries are connected to the alternator. Running from the alt to the rear bank would be redundant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graham0599 Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 I would definitely check how well the back batts are grouded. I have my back batts grounded at the back and a run from front to back batts. A run from the alt to back batts wouldn't hurt at all either. As far as fuses, you should check how much amperage your wire is rated to carry. Such as OFC/CCA. 250 should be enough if that's what the wire is rated for. You don't want a 200a wire trying to carry the 380a load of the amp. The wire will get hot, burn up the casing, whatever. To prevent that, you set the fuse size equal to the wire size. My 350z build- http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174424-2008-350z-build/page-2?hl=%2B350z+%2Bbuild#entry2605678 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Lol That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Ok thank you. My friend was trying to tell me I needed a 350a fuse on my runs. I didn't think that was right so I just wanted to make sure. Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 You can either fuse for the wire or the amps, your choice. Hopefully you're smart enough to use wire that can handle the total current draw of the amps. If you're using their 1/0 OFC, you should be good up to 350A @ (20ft)of current according to the general consensus. I'll email SHCA to double check because I would like to know for sure as well. If you fuse for the amps, add up what the recommended fuse sizes are and use that number for the size fuses you need. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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