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On my 3rd set of subs...can I get some input/feedback PLEASE!!


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So, I have a Kenwood KAC-9105D 1800watt max amp that says it does 900 rms @ 2ohm and I want to run it with 2 of the Pioneer dual voice coil TS-W3003D4 2000watt max /600 watt rms 12" subs. I've already blown through 2 sets of subs within the last 2 years being a noob at this stuff. So, I thought I'd try to learn my lesson this time and get a couple of different opinions. I had the Polk Audio db1212's, blew them within a few months and then I had the Rockford Fosgate P1's, blew those just after a year, both sets 12", both running at 2ohm, both on the KAC-9105D

My question is, what should I expect with the Pioneer subs? Are they going to be a close enough match to my amp? I assume I can have my gain all the way up but like I said, I want to get some second opinions if possible.

I'm running a single Pioneer TS-W3003D4 right now on that Kenwood KAC 9105D amp with the gain set in between 1/2 and 3/4 of the max it can go and my Sony head unit sub setting at +7 and i feel like it's just not enough bass for me coming from 2 x 12" and going to 1 x 12"
Do I have it set correctly?

Can someone give me some good input? I know the idiots at Car toys didn't care if I had the correct settings or wattage, they just wanted my money, which is why I came here ;)

Thanks in advance for any help I get here! I need it apparently haha...:|

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You CAN NOT have gain all the way up! It's not a volume know. It's a gain knob. Gain is used to match the AC voltage (audio signal) coming through your RCA's into the amp. That is why you blew all of those subs. You used it as a volume knob, clipped the shit out of the signal, sending nothing but distorted signals to them.

Don't do that.

Get/use the proper tools to set gain. Which is oscilloscope or DD-1. You could have already bought one of those and still be on your first set of subs with all of the money you spent replacing them. If you don't want to buy the proper tools, take it to a shop and have them set it for you. Even if they set it wrong it's still better than what you've been doing.

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The reason all your other subs blew I bet is because you used your gain like it was a volume knob.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Well, I would have thought since I had a "car audio" shop install both sets, then it would have been adjusted properly. After I blew those first two sets I bought the pioneer which was a week ago. I just assumed my amp was too powerful and that's why I blew them. I will definitely be buying whatever it is I need to get them set right. It's not that I couldn't afford it or did think I needed it, I just never knew and assumed the shop was doing me good...

Anyways I appreciate the help but no one has answered the real question I have. Are two of those pioneers and the kenwood kac 9105d a good match for each other wattage wise?

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The amp puts out 900 watts at 2 ohms. The subs can handle 600 watts continuous. So you have 450 watts available, per sub. So you will be under powering them. It will not be ideal, in terms of putting them in their optimum setting, but will work fine. Most will argue that you cannot hear a difference between 450 watts to 600 watts. I believe at such a low power rating, the diminishing return to increasing power is where it is pretty noticeable. I noticed a difference between going from a not true RMS 500w amp to a true 500w amp. Was a clear difference in the sound with a slight increase in power. If you keep that amp for them. I would build the box on the bigger side since you are powering them with less.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Yes that combination will work fine

Subs total rms = 1200w

Amp total rms = 900W

As long as the gain is set correctly you will be just fine. But it wouldn't hurt to buy a 1200-1500w amp. A true 1500wrms amp will give you a little headroom and you won't be making the amp work as much/create as much heat, and should be a little more efficient. Buy a DD-1, it's an investment you won't regret. Unfortunately, a lot of shops rely on their ears to set gains and that's not an equipment safe method. It's a shame, but it brings people back to spend more money when something goes wrong..

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If you maxed out your gain then you are SOL but If you havent touched the amp and the shop set your gains to max you need to be going back up there and getting some money back. They are the reason you keep buying subs and they see you keep coming back so they keep taking your money without fixing the problem. It would be a little hard to prove now after the fact but there has gotta be something that can be done. Maybe take your car back up there to get checked out, if they let you leave with your amp gains maxed out again take a pic as soon as you check your trunk and go from there.

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