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Sundown Audio

Inline fuse keeps blowing


Stryde222

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Had my amplifier and subwoofers installed at an audio place,my inline fuse has blown here and there from being to loud but now it blows at moderate volume..2 months later I can't turn my bass volume knob past 25% or my headlights will flicker and dim and the inline fuse will blow,my headlights never flickered/dimmed before this. I'm stuck listening to my subwoofers at a low volume or the fuse will blow,it all started 3-5mins into a ride..any ideas of what it could be?,Thanks

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Typically if the fuse blows it's a short. I'd check to make sure all your connections are secure. From the sounds of it though you are stating it is because of power. Can you please state the system? amplifier? subs? the power wire size? the fuse rating? the vehicle?

1999 Lexus GS 300

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Singer 240 Amp (Will be installed later)

Northstar Group 31 & 24

Sundown SCV-4000

Rockford T400-4

2 12" CT Sound Meso

CT Sounds 6.5 Meso Components

CT Sounds Tropo 6.5

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I have two kicker l7 12s with a kicker zx 1500.1 amp, running 4gauge power wire using a 60amp inline fuse in a 2010 camry xle..I had been slamming it for 2 months with the bass volume knob at 75-80% and the headunits volume at 55 out of 63, with the 60amp fuse with no problems besides a heavy bass song or two blowing the fuse. so I know not to put in a bigger fuse...my ground had came loose a few weeks ago and my amp power light was flickering (not the protect light) I fixed it and it worked great for 2weeks or so till this started happening,I realized the screw's threads for the ground wernt catching anymore so I drilled a new hole and made a tight connection..I did it late at night and didn't end up removing the paint off the metal,assuming id still be able to get the subwoofer volume knob above 25% if the ground was the problem..not sure what else it could be..if it's in the power wire,will the whole wire need to be replaced? or is my amp most likely fried?..this happend litterally 3minutes into a ride then I went thru 4-5 60amp fuses in one day..before that I only blew the fuse 2-3 times playing at the volumes I mentioned...at the moment I only play a few songs I'm Familliar with having the knob at 10-15% cause the fuse will blow like nothing now.

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A kicker 1500.1 can draw more than 60 amps easily. Do you know if you're using good ofc 4g or cca? If you're using a higher quality cable (shca ofc, rockford ofc, tspec v10 and up, etc) you could replace that with a 100 amp fuse and it will probably fix your issue. If its a cheaper cable your best bet would be to replace it with a higher quality cable. As for he ground I would go to the strut tower in the trunk. I had an issue with my t1500 sending distortion to my sub and it was entirely the ground. So locate the strut tower, remove one nut, remove all paint (as shiny as possible) and use a ring terminal and tighten the nut on top of it. I doubt your amp is damaged. I've seen wayyy to many terrible/dangerous installs that havent damaged amplifiers.

1999 Lexus GS 300

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Singer 240 Amp (Will be installed later)

Northstar Group 31 & 24

Sundown SCV-4000

Rockford T400-4

2 12" CT Sound Meso

CT Sounds 6.5 Meso Components

CT Sounds Tropo 6.5

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What shop did you get it from? or did you do the install yourself? if you got it from a shop you could probably have them test the amp for you. If not if you have any friends you could toss it in their system if the power wire is sufficient

1999 Lexus GS 300

Pioneer DEH-80PRS

Singer 240 Amp (Will be installed later)

Northstar Group 31 & 24

Sundown SCV-4000

Rockford T400-4

2 12" CT Sound Meso

CT Sounds 6.5 Meso Components

CT Sounds Tropo 6.5

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To start, check your power wire for shorts, from one end to the other. It could have gotten pinched and the jacket broke or something. But I don't think it's that or you'd blow it as soon as you put a new fuse in every time. But checking for shorts or spots the jacket it rubbing against something is a good thing to do no matter what.

A 60A fuse isn't enough for that amp. Kicker recommends a 150A, and I don't know about you, but I trust their recommendations over a shop when it comes to manufacturer ratings. next thing is, if your gain on the amp is set higher than it should be, combined with your use of the amplifier "bass knob", you could be pulling a lot more current than you should be, even at low volumes.

So my TL;DR summary is:

Make a secure ground connection to your frame/chassis, or make it run all the way to your battery.

Ditch your bass knob all it is is a remote bass boost and does more harm than good.

Either buy a DD-1 or mini oscilloscope, or find one local to you using the SMD tools map located on this forum. And then use the tool to set your gain properly. Because if the shop didn't put the right size fuse in, I'm sure they didn't do much of anything else correctly either

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Yep the fuse is first. Get an ANL fuse and fuse holder. If you keep your bass knob make sure your gains are set properly on the amp. Using a multi-meter to help with that is the cheapest way. Not as efficient as my DD-1, but old school. Make sure where ever your amp is screwed down that it's not screwed to the car w/o a support board under it. It needs to be lifted off the metal of the vehicle. Everything else that "reedal" said do too. That shop wants you to come back so they can say you did something they did to get more $$ from you.

That's why I only install for friends and family.

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I checked the positive/power wire saw most of what I could see and saw no problems

I'll deff get a fuse holder for a 150amp I just don't understand why my headlights dim and even flicker bad with the bass knob at only 30% then the fuse blows,when I had it at 70% maybe the 3:00 position with just a slight dim without the 60amp blowing

I feel there will be some major clipping over 30% volume,the woofers coils did have a burning smell each time the fuse blew I never smelled this before...I'd like to get the 60amp working at the 3:00 position again before putting the 150amp in,I can tell the gain is set properley by ear to.

I have no warranty left on the l7s or on the 1500.1 so i want to be on the safe side,because I plan to upgrade to DC's next summer (first setup I had was two 10" pioneers) thanks again for the responses

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