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Hello everyone. I have a 2000 gmc sierra 1500 z71. When I bought the truck about 8 months ago I decided to go ahead and do the brakes. I replaced the front rotors and pads and the back pads. I bled them but not necessarily right. The pedal hasn't felt solid since I got the truck. Anyways 2 days ago my truck started pulling hard to the right about 2 miles from the house. When I got home the rotor and caliper and we're hot and smoking a little. So I figured it was the pad pushed against rotor. I relieved pressure on the caliper. Anyways it still held until it cooled off. Yesterday I had my wife take it to the shop and get them bled. They said I had no air in the lines but brakes felt spongy. Any ideas?

I'm not an expert so please use dummy version for me.

Still learning but have started gathering.

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what procedure did you use to season the new front rotors and bed the pads? I know if you skip these steps it tend to lead for a world of hurt dont the road.... also be careful if the rotors got really hot and you do not have sealed bearings because all that heat will melt out the grease.... I once burnt a spindle from a hot rotor because the grease went byebye and the bearing went dry... took me 3 days to learn that problem when I was 18.... got lucky and the spindle did not warp but rotor and bearings were toast.... if it pulling under breaking or pulling while coasting and how does the wheels spin when you jack it up

1. Use the vehicle for five or six days of gentle driving, using the brakes to the same extent you would in typical driving conditions.

[important]NOTE: Zinc-plated rotors require a couple extra days of driving to wear through the plating before the rotor-seasoning process can begin.[/important]

2. After finding a safe location to drive your vehicle as fast as 70 miles-per-hour, perform four regular stops—from 60-70 miles-per-hour down to complete stops as you would during normal driving conditions.

3. Next, perform medium-effort partial stops (about 50 percent) from 60 miles-per-hour down to about 15 miles-per-hour. Once completed, drive for five minutes with little to no braking, allowing your rotors to cool.

4. Next, perform four medium- to hard-effort partial stops (about 75 percent), from 60 miles-per-hour down to about 15 miles-per-hour. Once completed, drive for 10 minutes with little to no braking, letting your rotors cool.

5. Park the car and let your brakes cool overnight. According to the experts at Baer, you’re now 50-percent complete with the seasoning process. To finish the job, you’re going to essentially repeat the procedure from the day before.

6. Return to your safe location for driving as fast as 60 miles-per-hour. Next, perform medium-effort partial stops (about 50 percent) from 60 miles-per-hour down to about 15 miles-per-hour. Once completed, drive for five minutes with little to no braking, allowing your rotors to cool.

7. Next, perform four medium- to hard-effort partial stops (about 75 percent), from 60 miles-per-hour down to about 15 miles-per-hour. Once completed, drive for 10 minutes with little to no braking, and let your rotors cool off.

8. Finally, make six hard partial stops, from 60 miles-per-hour down to about 15 miles-per-hour. Make every effort to perform these stops without locking your wheels. When you’re done, drive for 10 minutes with little to no braking, allowing your rotors to cool.

9. One more time, park your car and let your brake system cool overnight. If you just installed new brake pads as well, you are now ready to bed-in your brake pads.

bedding pads

  1. Perform four repeated light-to-medium stops—from 65 miles-per-hour down to 10 miles-per-hour, to bring the rotors up to temperature.
  2. Perform three light stops in succession. Then, perform eight heavy stops, back-to-back, at a point just short of wheel lock—from 65 miles-per-hour down to about five miles-per-hour.
  3. Drive for 10 minutes to cool off your brakes. Avoid braking as much as possible during this time. A 10-minute drive with zero braking is ideal.
  4. Perform three light stops in succession. Then, perform eight heavy stops, back-to-back, at a point just short of wheel lock—from 65 miles-per-hour down to about five miles-per-hour.
  5. Drive for another 10 minutes of cool-down time without using your brakes, if possible.
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Not quite sure if this is your problem but it is possible to have the flex line either expanding under pressure or the inner liner is collapsing and holding pressure to the caliper or both.

I would replace the stock flex lines with stainless steel pieces, and flush the brake system and replace the fluid with new.

01 Ford focus ZX3

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Not sure. Haven't had time to take it off and look. I will look soon though broke.

Also thanks skull that could be a possibility.

I drove it to work this morning and it seems to work properly except the stopping power is even less. By properly I mean not sticking.

Still learning but have started gathering.

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  • 3 months later...

Pump the brakes with the engine off. The pedal should get stiffer and stiffer with each pump, and eventually it shouldn't move even when basically standing on it. If it moves, you either have a hydraulic leak, deteriorating brake hoses, or a failing master cylinder. If on the trouble wheel, one pad is wearing much more quickly than the other pad on the same rotor, then you have a problem with the caliper on that wheel. Probably the piston is rusted, and the seal won't allow it to retract that tiny amount that it should to release it form the rotor, or the pins needs more silicone-based grease. Never use petroleum-based lubricants on those caliper pins (I use syl-glide from NAPA). The best bet in that case is to get a reman'd caliper. They should be cheap with the core exchange.

Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do.

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Also, not to retract from your knowledge, but brakes are one thing that really should not be messed with by an amateur. Incorrectly installing brakes can have potentially deadly outcomes for yourself and other drivers. If you can't figure it out simply, leave it to a reputable independent local shop to figure out.

Sorry, I hate being that guy.

Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do.

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