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Box Advice?


RockeyDA

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So two things to think about, pointing subs up in a recipe for trunk rattle, probably something you want to avoid.

Secondly, I doubt the problem with your Alpines is that they are underrated, the reason they were getting hit is you were probably sending them a clipped signal. It doesn't take a very big amp to cooks sub if it's clipping.

1. the sub will be facing up but the hole is gonna be back near the seats. haven't tried it though, cant get anyone to help me get this box up the steps.

2. my pyle amp clips alot even when only puting out aobut 100wrms, but the pioneer in the car dose much better and i have my gain adjusted so the clipping is little to none at 2 clicks blow max on my PSP. plus that wacka flocka dirty bass would have a similar affect. and going threw half an album of flocka makes the sub get stinky, then i got to cut the power way down and play something like techno to give my sub break but let me enjoy it still. btw, you think the sundown can take a 1500 amp?

and back to the box's, i think im gonna try and get wood as often as i can. and just play around building boxes, and if in the end i keep the one i like and try selling the others on craigslist for like 40$ or something as long as they sound good, and saving aint wort it, then ile burn em.

still wish i could drive so i could dumpster dive when ever i want. but thats something i know nothing about. way back when i was in high school, like 2011 or something we had drivers ed, told us nothing about driving or how to get a license, just 4 months of learning street sings, useless class.

oh 1 more question, i was checking out that box calculator sight here and i saw Labyrinth on here, looks like an L port with a fold in it, how is it diffrent in performance and should i try making one?

Current Subs: 2 Alpine SWR-1522D's, Sundown X-18

Current Amps: SAE-1500D on 100A 14.4v psu, Technics SA-560,Some Sony, Some Pioneer - crackles if on to long

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So you're like 23-24, no job and no license, dumpster diving for materials, blasting chopped n skrewd mixes, and trying to burn down your father's car with ghetto rigged gear and sketchy wiring?

Dude, go out and get a job instead of worrying about ported boxes and trying to come up ona sundown sub.

oh 1 more question, i was checking out that box calculator sight here and i saw Labyrinth on here, looks like an L port with a fold in it, how is it diffrent in performance and should i try making one?

You're referring to a quarter wave transmission line, or t-line enclosure. They are basically long complicated ports. There is a lot of information on here about them if you spend some time searching.

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So you're like 23-24, no job and no license, dumpster diving for materials, blasting chopped n skrewd mixes, and trying to burn down your father's car with ghetto rigged gear and sketchy wiring?

Dude, go out and get a job instead of worrying about ported boxes and trying to come up ona sundown sub.

oh 1 more question, i was checking out that box calculator sight here and i saw Labyrinth on here, looks like an L port with a fold in it, how is it diffrent in performance and should i try making one?

You're referring to a quarter wave transmission line, or t-line enclosure. They are basically long complicated ports. There is a lot of information on here about them if you spend some time searching.

did you not read anything here? i literally complained about taking the buss to work. i work for Penstate and asoon as some one in my area bids up i get there full time job then i start bidding up. i only work a 28hr and only make 9.50atm and my rent is 730$ a month so money is a little tight, ass hole. my jobs probably better than the dead end mcdonalds job your probably have if you even have one. so dont even talk shit i worked for everything i have in life, i do odd job shit on the weekends from computer work to digging a ditch to save up for audio equipment. on top of that i volunteer and the church every Sunday and i dont get nothing for that. i do more than pull my own god dam weight. And nothing was ever handed to me.

Current Subs: 2 Alpine SWR-1522D's, Sundown X-18

Current Amps: SAE-1500D on 100A 14.4v psu, Technics SA-560,Some Sony, Some Pioneer - crackles if on to long

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i have other woofers in my setup to fill in the gaps (mainly 15" alpine type r) and i wish to hit the low big Kurt - my sub hard, dont hit it at all atm, and i listen to alot of chopped and screwed music and rap from the dirty south so i miss alot of the low lows. and one of my friends tells me the FS is the freq the sub hits hardest at? is this ture? because i really want it to be. but yeah, i can fill in gaps with other subs. and i wanna go as low as i can without significant sacrifice of power.(unless its like 15hz or somthing were no songs have bass)

oh and thank you all for helping me, i appreciate it. every mistake you help me avoid makes a big difference.

The Fs isn't the frequency the sub hits hardest at, its just the frequency the cone vibrates at in free-air. Once you put a sub in a box, the resonant frequency goes up. With ported boxes the frequency the box is tuned to (Fb) is where you are most likely going to get the loudest.

every in home amp i ran into was over priced, low power, and high ohm rating. and one of my friends tried what i was doing and it came out great. soundqubed 600w 8" sundown sae600d on 100amp 14.4v psu, pounded so hard and clean(accept for the port noise.) plus if i ever get enough money to afford a car i could use the amp there to.

Yeah, the problem was you were looking at home amps, PA amps are going to get you what you want. For less than that SAE600d costs you can get this:

https://www.parts-express.com/behringer-nu1000dsp-inuke-1000-watt-power-amplifier-with-dsp--248-6702

That amp will put out over 600 watts at 4 ohms, and has very powerful DSP functionality that will allow you to do all kinds of handy stuff. And it plugs right into the wall. If that's not enough power, for $70 more you can get this:

https://www.parts-express.com/behringer-nu3000dsp-inuke-3000-watt-power-amplifier-with-dsp--248-6706

That one puts out over 2200 watts at 4 ohms. If you sub has 2-ohm coils, you can wire to 4-ohms and you are set.

If you buy amps with XLR just remember you'll need a converter...

http://www.parts-express.com/rolls-mb15b-promatch-balanced-unbalanced-converter-35mm-rca-xlr--245-1062

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That one puts out over 2200 watts at 4 ohms. If you sub has 2-ohm coils, you can wire to 4-ohms and you are set.

If you buy amps with XLR just remember you'll need a converter...

http://www.parts-express.com/rolls-mb15b-promatch-balanced-unbalanced-converter-35mm-rca-xlr--245-1062

im not gonna buy an amp with XLR, but if i did i would try to remove the balence audio function, had to do that to my mic and now i have an EQ i have to do it to (old 20 band a friend did not want anymore) all my audio is controlled by my server so 3.5mm and RCA all the way. im handy with that soldering iron.

Current Subs: 2 Alpine SWR-1522D's, Sundown X-18

Current Amps: SAE-1500D on 100A 14.4v psu, Technics SA-560,Some Sony, Some Pioneer - crackles if on to long

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......

You're referring to a quarter wave transmission line, or t-line enclosure. They are basically long complicated ports. There is a lot of information on here about them if you spend some time searching.

No a labyrinth port is not the same thing as a T-line. Labyrinth ports are just a layout style for a slot port (usually). Simply put its a slot port with a lot of bends in it. There can be some acoustic benefits (it filters out some out-of-band noise from escaping out the port), but for car audio that doesn't really matter. When they are used for car audio subs its usually because there was no other way to fit the port in the space available. All the bends and turns they have is not beneficial to efficient port flow, so they are something I try to avoid doing if I can.

and back to the box's, i think im gonna try and get wood as often as i can. and just play around building boxes, and if in the end i keep the one i like and try selling the others on craigslist for like 40$ or something as long as they sound good, and saving aint wort it, then ile burn em.

still wish i could drive so i could dumpster dive when ever i want. but thats something i know nothing about. way back when i was in high school, like 2011 or something we had drivers ed, told us nothing about driving or how to get a license, just 4 months of learning street sings, useless class.

...

Hey if you like building boxes and can scrounge together the materials for free than have at it! You may have a tough time selling them on craigslist (at least that's been my experience), but if you are getting the materials for free and having fun who cares if you can't sell them.

If you buy amps with XLR just remember you'll need a converter...

http://www.parts-express.com/rolls-mb15b-promatch-balanced-unbalanced-converter-35mm-rca-xlr--245-1062

You don't have to use a fancy converter like that (at least not for Behringer amps). All you need is a simple RCA-to-XLR cable. Or for Behringer amps you can just get an RCA-to-TS adapter.

Also, balanced signal devices will take an unbalanced signal just fine, you just won't be getting any of the noise cancelling benefits of using a balanced signal.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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well, for my EQ since i have female RCA connectors in my box of scrap bords, and nothing xlr im still gonna do some soldering to my EQ. back when i was still applying for jobs it got bord and overclocked my Genesis and a soldering project.

19j5blZ.jpgi also gave it a regon mod and a cpu Freeze switch for clock speed changes on the fly, replaced red led with 3 color as indicator. red=normal, blue=usa-10mhz green=japan-7.5mhz, and turquoise=japan-10mhz

and i can use that in combo with a flash car on my sega CD to play imported games, but i kinda quit gaming after i got a job.

oh and this was my first wood working experience ever and its what gave me the confidence to build a woofer box. turns out this was easier because it did not take near as long to sand out mistakes. its its size is off becase when i was building it i only had main bord and controller ports, did not get a system for compassion till i was done. i used google images and winged it.

wooden_supernintindo_vs_oem_supernintind

kMER0Wf.jpg

i know its a big of a side track but im sure its not to often you see either thing.

oh and the reset and power switch are white wood i died purple with hot water and grape cool-aid.

and box then got my wood from same place, but i walked 3 miles carring 150lbs of wood, that sucked.

Current Subs: 2 Alpine SWR-1522D's, Sundown X-18

Current Amps: SAE-1500D on 100A 14.4v psu, Technics SA-560,Some Sony, Some Pioneer - crackles if on to long

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WOOO, this weekend im gonna get closer to that amp, found some odd job work, its gonna be back breaking, cleaning the house of someone who lives with 2 messy people that dont pick up after them selves and have 10 beagle on top of it. this is good because there usually ALOT of work to do and she pays me 15 an hour, last time i was there made 200$ in 2 days, then layed in bed all day the next. i honestly cant wait. and things are supposed to slow down at the pennstater next week so being sore aint gonna be to bad.

oh and is gluing 2 sheets of wood tohether to make one big one a good idea? because i saw a vid of someone putting a x18 in a t-line and it was crazy and vid says it was on 300w amp. less power than im packin.

Current Subs: 2 Alpine SWR-1522D's, Sundown X-18

Current Amps: SAE-1500D on 100A 14.4v psu, Technics SA-560,Some Sony, Some Pioneer - crackles if on to long

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Gluing two sheets together to make a larger sheet definitely isn't going to be an ideal situation, though I think you can make it work if you do it right. I can tell you that just gluing the edges together and doing nothing else will NOT work. What you will need to do is glue a strip of wood over the joint. So use like a 4" wide strip so 2" overlaps each piece, that should give you the strength you need. You will also want the edges you are gluing together to be as straight as possible for a tight joint.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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Update, no wood yet because i was working all weekend, but im 180$ in on that amp. if weather dont mess things up i should be ready to go in next week or two. would of mad more money on Saturday but only ended up detailing a car.

Current Subs: 2 Alpine SWR-1522D's, Sundown X-18

Current Amps: SAE-1500D on 100A 14.4v psu, Technics SA-560,Some Sony, Some Pioneer - crackles if on to long

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