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Hello all! I'm new here to the forums and I thought I'd start by posting a build thread for first build. I've been looking into audio for a very long time, but recently started looking specifically into car audio about four years ago. I built my very first box a year ago (April, 2016) after ordering my subs. Since then, I worked and saved up for my amp, batteries, and wire (other miscellaneous stuff as well) which I recently purchased this winter. I got everything in the mail a few months ago and only recently installed everything.

It's been a very long work in progress (I replaced my door speakers and fabricated my A-pillars three years ago and have been saving up since then) and will continue to be improved, but I'm happy to finally share it with you all!

Here are some pictures in chronological order of everything as it has come together (sorry for the poor iPhone quality):

April of 2015 (As you can see, this was my very first box build. It's not very pretty and there was lots of sanding to do to make all the edges meet flush)

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The subs

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A couple of months later (February 2016) and I stripped the vehicle down to the bare interior so that I could run the wire and RCA's through the car (for my daily, I didn't want to run the wire underneath the vehicle. Looking back on how tough it was to run three runs of 1/0 AWG through the firewall, if I did it again I'd do it differently!)

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Interior reinstalled

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Under the hood

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Progress

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Heatshrunk!

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Batteries, bussbars, box, subs, and most of the power wire installed

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The (temporary) wiring setup

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About a year of work, and that's where I'm at! I've done a little more work to tidy things up, but for the most part, I've got everything done and ready for the amplifier to be dropped-in when it arrives.

Speaking of... I ordered my BC5500 in December, but shortly after they went out of stock and you know how Crescendo restocks go... Four months later, and here I am anxiously waiting for my amp to restock and show up in the mail.

In the meantime, I'm working on rebuilding my box and the floor underneath it.

I'm currently very unhappy with the way the Herculiner turned out. It was my first time using the product so my lack of experience made it clump and lay unevenly over the entire box. Additionally, the box itself was my first, unexperienced build, and I've learned a lot about boxes and building them since them.

The box has a 32hz tuning and I'd like to drop it lower to 30/28, so I'm going to be doing interchangeable ports (I realize that I will be changing the 3.5 cubic airspace by adjusting the port volume, but the subs will not be in a space that is any less than their minimum recommended with the largest port).

I'll also be replacing the OEM trunk floor (about a 1/4" thick) with 1/2" MDF. It'll be much stronger and hold up to the flex and weight a lot better. I'm also unhappy with the battery tray and amp rack that I made (very temporary 1/4" angle iron rectangle mounted to the floor and 1/4" wood as the amp rack) so I'll be replacing those in a much more permanent fashion (I've got a few ideas in mind).

In the meantime, let me know what you guys think! :)

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Looks nice man, all those little subs I like that! wiring under hood is clean!! Back looks nice, creative with the buss bars on the XP3000's.

In the future maybe use brad nails on the box instead of screws so it doesnt split?

Got any videos?

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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Looks nice man, all those little subs I like that! wiring under hood is clean!! Back looks nice, creative with the buss bars on the XP3000's.

In the future maybe use brad nails on the box instead of screws so it doesnt split?

Got any videos?

This is an endless argument that from person experience makes me defend a screw over nails. I've learned that it works to clamp the wood while it bonds. If you use screws just pre drill with a counter sink bit.

Team Bass-Hz

screenshot5-1.jpg

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No worries. =)

Lots of ways to build boxes, brad nails just work for me. =)

If you counter sink the holes that works too. =)

To each their own. =)

If it's not gonna get wet you could get by with Titebond 2

Don't clamp them together too tight to squeeze all the glue out, the glue is the strong bonding material, you squeeze it all out and you lose strength.

Just passing along my opinions. I only brad nail to hold in place while glue dries, all you really need is glue. I clamp to keep things squared up also so it doesn't slide around when I use a liter of glue per square foot. =O

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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