AJFrrranklin Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 I will be running 2 Pioneer Champion Series Pro subs, both 600 watts, and 400 watts to my mids and highs for a total of 1600 watts. I have big three done under the hood, with a 120 amp alt. Going to be replacing battery under the hood because of voltage drop when bass hits and needed help on which battery to get. Quote Just a 18 yr old kid looking to learn more about car audio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 (edited) How much does your voltage drop? what does it drop down to? If you use amps that ACTUALLY put out that kind of wattage I would be curious to see what voltage you drop down to. If you use amps that don't actually put out the wattage you think they do then you may not need much else for electrical. Some people say that at 1000+ watts to upgrade alt but I think that is a little overkill personally. Takes power to make power but C'mon... If you already did the big 3, are adding a nice aftermarket battery underhood, run some decent wire from front to back (I would suggest one run of 1/0 OFC) and are using a 120 amp alt, if it was me I would see what your voltage drop is like after said and done, if it ends up dropping more than you like, add a small quality, aftermarket battery in back by the amps and for 1600 watts should do the trick IMO. Is alt PCM controlled and hot charge in the 13's?! Factory alt I'm assuming? What amps are you running? In the future, just as an FYI when you are saying how many watts you are running you should list your amps more so than the speakers wattage ratings. Also, go by the continuous (RMS) rating and not max power rating. Just because your speakers say 400 watts doesn't mean you will give them that. Some people might have subs that are rated for 3000 watts RMS but are only feeding them 2000 watts. Some people might have a lower grade name amplifier that says 2000 watts but realistically will only ever put out 1200 watts...... EDIT: other people will have other opinions. Hopefully more chime in, we both could learn something. Also, my advice is to stick around this forum for some time and learn some priceless info on car audio to set you straight. this is a GREAT place. I see your signature says you want to learn more. Please do some reading on here before you start your build or you may regret it... Edited April 18, 2016 by Karkov Quote 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Good thread to read, especially post #10 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/204533-do-i-need-a-battery/#entry3100642 Quote 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJFrrranklin Posted April 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 (edited) There will be two monoblock Hifonics Brutus BRX 1116.1D amps both running at 600 watts RMS and a Pioneer GM-8604 4 channel amp running at 400 watts RMS. The alt is factory and I don't know more about it sorry But I will get the voltage drop numbers asap. Edited April 18, 2016 by AJFrrranklin Quote Just a 18 yr old kid looking to learn more about car audio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris@xspower Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 your factory battery is group size 121R we do not have perfect fit for that sizing but we do have the D5100R that will power, roughly, a 2000W RMS system with ease. Let me know if you have any questions on it. You can contact me at my email for quickest response also. [email protected] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJFrrranklin Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 Thank you Chris for the help on battery sizing. I really appreciate it. Although I'm not sure this is the solution I need anymore :/. I tried testing voltage drop and it stayed steady when bass hit. The whole reason I thought I needed a new battery was because when the HU is at 3/4s volume and the bass hits the mids and highs amp flashes protect mode. I also noticed my interior LEDs dimmed slightly when bass hits at high volume. Is the battery the problem or could it be wiring to the amp? I tested the voltage at the mids/highs amp and at the battery under the hood and both stayed steady when bass hit. I can't figure it out :/ Quote Just a 18 yr old kid looking to learn more about car audio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJFrrranklin Posted April 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 Don't know if I should move this topic to a different thread or not? Quote Just a 18 yr old kid looking to learn more about car audio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris@xspower Posted April 20, 2016 Report Share Posted April 20, 2016 emailed you! let me know if you have any other questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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