Twiztedlemon Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 Hey, this is my first post and from the rules and categories, I figured this would be the correct topic area for this post. As it involves 3-4 different said forum topics. Well to start the question I'll start with what I have now and progress to what I'm wanting to do. I'm a Very specific person and won't buy anything till it's pretty much set in stone how I want it to be. Your help would be much appreciated! ------------------------------------------------------------ *Current setup *2016 Mazda CX 5, stock 100 amp alternator, stock battery. Used some poor man's dynamat "USeal" at most vital points.... Except roof and floor haha *Big 3 upgrade in conjunction with the stock - 125amp in line fuse 4 gauge wire all around. *1000 watt @ 2 ohm Alpine amp pushing 2 JL audio 12w3v3-4s (all are about 8 years old and the Alpine amp just died :/ 4 gauge wire with 100amp in line fuse on @ the battery with another 100amp array of fuses built into the amp itself. ) *300 watt Alpine 4 channel amp pushing my 6 aftermarket interior speakers + 2 tweeters with 8 gauge wire 50amp in line fuse at the battery and another 50 amp fuse array on the amp itself. Pushing 4 Infiniti speakers - 2 are comp w/ tweeter, 2 Polk db351 in the dash. *Rockford Fosgate 360.3 sound processor. (using stock head unit as alot of vehicle functionality requires it and besides this guy is a beast) *changed headlights from stock halogen to xenon hids, as well as all interior lights to super bright LEDS to improve visibility and help lower the power draw for core vehicle functions. ---------------------------------------------------------- +What I'm wanting to do +Get 1 or 2 HDC3.112's ++Amplifier++ +Running 2 of these HDC3.112's, I would believe it best to get a amp about 4500 watt RMS. What amp would do the job of pushing these subs right and good while still being safe? ++Enclosure++ +From a rep up there at SoundQubed had also said ported/vented enclosure is best for optimal subwoofer performance, curious about the Cubic foot per speaker, the best targeted subwoofer port frequency (hz) I should go for. I have always used sealed boxes (less hassle, easier, smaller, but Im sure If I can get the specs for optimal performance, I can find or try to find someone one who can built to fit the space. Any need to knows or tips besides the simple things like making sure there is enough mounting depth, subtracting subwoofer size from the cubic ft of the box? ++Vehicle Power++ + I Know I will have to upgrade my car power generation if I put a 4k rms amp in, but if I did a single sub would I still need to for 2-2.5k rms? I have been trying to get that first biggie (high output alternator) done first but This has seemed to become a tough find for my vehicle, but the search will continue. (2013-2015 CX 5's/mazda 6/and higher tier Mazda 3 all use the same alternator). Then once that's completed, I will of course be changing the battery to a high quality deep cycle battery. Would it behoove me to have 2 batteries for just the 1 sub I can't almost certainly say that 2 of these subs would be a no brainer? And of course bigger alternator /amps would need 0 gauge. ++Setup++ + So putting it all theoretically together, if I go with either 1 or 2 of the subs, a optimal sub enclosure, amp, and vehicle configuration... What's the best way to go about it? I'm going to assume, and correct me if I'm wrong, but most efficiently and economically running at 1 ohm would be the best bet. *+* Im looking at getting some working subs in my car now, if I buy the amp, subs, and box and hook them all up in my car as it is at the moment, can / will this risk hurting the car/subs/ and or amp? I know I won't get the full extent of what everything can do, but can I get by with it till I find a way to upgrade my cars electrical generating output? *+*I have a temporary amplifier box that's air cooled by a series of fans, I will be creating a more sophisticated, tough, and eye pleasing when I do this. Curious if it's ok by y'alls standards to mount that box to the subwoofer enclosure. Before you jump the gun about vibrations, the current and future box are all liquid nailed on ever crevice/joint, elbow brackets, then layers of plasti dip for the rubberizing of the entire box, with every mount point if the amps, sound processor having about 3/8 1/2 inch of rubber between it and the box. (rubber absorbs shock/vibration. And gives a nice airflow gap to help cool the devices better--, the 1000 watt alpine always ran hot, seemed to be an issue alot of people had with that model. I'm going for a intensive SQ/SPL mix as a daily driver. I'm not burpin or doing competitions, I just want great sound, and if the want arises to hear me coming from a mile away... (or when in Atlanta traffic I could annoy everyone around me so bad that the traffic might actually move.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twiztedlemon Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Also, by all means if you feel there's a better sub / amp that would fit my needs, let me know. As with most, budget is the overruling factor, I do have a ton of kids. That said I want a sub, that will make my 2 W3's look like garbage. I see Sundown a lot on here and Orion seems to have revamped themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twiztedlemon Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Well lets make it More simple... Would 1 of the soundqubed subs with 2k amps out due the previous 2 JL audios? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Esgedi Posted May 23, 2016 Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Well lets make it More simple... Would 1 of the soundqubed subs with 2k amps out due the previous 2 JL audios? Those two JL's in a perfect unloaded space would result in 129.6dB on 1000w. The Soundqubed would produce 128dB on 2000w input. Now, the difference between an amp that does 2KW into a 1 ohm load and a 2KW amp on a 1 ohm reactive sub is a whole other ballgame. Fewer drivers will always result in a more efficient box, so for all intents and purposes we're looking at an even playing field. Honestly, i'd go with the biggest single driver you can fit. Cone area = efficiency, simple as that. I'd look at what sundown is offering, but if the sundown facebook page is any indicator, jacob has some crazy shit coming down the pipeline pretty soon. If you ABSOLUTELY can't wait, i'd probably recommend an SA12. Good efficiency, cheap, rugged, solid performer. Don't trust a shop but you personally just smoked two decks, makes sense. 03' Trailblazer LTDayton Designer 6.5"s & Silkie tweetersDayton Audio Ultimax 18"Pioneer 9601 & 8604XS Power D34002 runs 1/0Singer 250 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twiztedlemon Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Thanks for the response, I'll have to check out this new stuff coming down the line Waiting isn't always ideal, but a little patience for improvements, is always well worth it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twiztedlemon Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2016 Haha Humm I see a bit on it, to also ask more for reference, with the soundqubed subs would the 15, or 18 be better? Their rms / peaks are identical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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