Jump to content

8" in the kick advice


Recommended Posts

So, I received my new kick panels so I'll be able to play around with putting the L8's in the kicks, and if I don't like it, I can put the stock panels back in.

But I have a question. The drivers kick panel is not big enough to angle the 8" mid, or really position it anywhere, due to the hood release that I don't want to relocate. So my question is, does anyone know the effect of making a conical tunnel that recedes in size, but then opens back up? Imagine the top 3/4's of an ice cream cone, and the ice cream is the speaker. It starts big, then gets smaller in diameter (approximately 4inches in diameter) then opens up into the body panel. That's what I'm thinking of doing. It'd look similar to this.

http://www.eternalyouth1489999.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/cone.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, I received my new kick panels so I'll be able to play around with putting the L8's in the kicks, and if I don't like it, I can put the stock panels back in.

But I have a question. The drivers kick panel is not big enough to angle the 8" mid, or really position it anywhere, due to the hood release that I don't want to relocate. So my question is, does anyone know the effect of making a conical tunnel that recedes in size, but then opens back up? Imagine the top 3/4's of an ice cream cone, and the ice cream is the speaker. It starts big, then gets smaller in diameter (approximately 4inches in diameter) then opens up into the body panel. That's what I'm thinking of doing. It'd look similar to this.

http://www.eternalyouth1489999.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/cone.jpg

isn't that effectively a waveguide? Waveguides can negatively effect things and accentuate certain frequencies more then others, especially if its constricting like that. Most waveguides start with a small driver (3/4"-2" driver to a 4"-15" expanding waveguide) to a large waveguide. Also constricting it like that would negate a lot of the drivers freq. response.

I wonder if you would gain anything by reverse mounting the driver?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

id relocate the hood release before id start messing with a design like that. hell, I run hlcd's and have had to modify/relocate hood releases in every car Ive installed them in.

is there a specific reason you dont want to move the release?

also, if I'm imagining what your saying right, the taper in the enclosure wouldnt be as drastic as the image you linked. right? the taper is just to avoid the hood release lever?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

id relocate the hood release before id start messing with a design like that. hell, I run hlcd's and have had to modify/relocate hood releases in every car Ive installed them in.

is there a specific reason you dont want to move the release?

also, if I'm imagining what your saying right, the taper in the enclosure wouldnt be as drastic as the image you linked. right? the taper is just to avoid the hood release lever?

Show me what you did. I need to relocate my hood release to just fit the 8 in the door. I have crank windows in my silverado so that takes up space

Link to comment
Share on other sites

id relocate the hood release before id start messing with a design like that. hell, I run hlcd's and have had to modify/relocate hood releases in every car Ive installed them in.

is there a specific reason you dont want to move the release?

also, if I'm imagining what your saying right, the taper in the enclosure wouldnt be as drastic as the image you linked. right? the taper is just to avoid the hood release lever?

Show me what you did. I need to relocate my hood release to just fit the 8 in the door. I have crank windows in my silverado so that takes up space

not really much to show. the hood releases I have dealt with are pull cable style with either pull handle or lever. take the lever/pull handle off, usually held on with a couple screws, and move it to create the clearance required. there is usually a enough slack in the cable to move it a couple inches. if you need a little extra cable go under the hood and take out as much slack as you can before it goes through the fire wall.

if all that fails..... you can make a custom cable to length and move the release basically anywhere. that is a little more involved finding the correct cable ends and fittings.

example of custom cables- http://www.myronsmopeds.com/category/cable-parts/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, I received my new kick panels so I'll be able to play around with putting the L8's in the kicks, and if I don't like it, I can put the stock panels back in.

But I have a question. The drivers kick panel is not big enough to angle the 8" mid, or really position it anywhere, due to the hood release that I don't want to relocate. So my question is, does anyone know the effect of making a conical tunnel that recedes in size, but then opens back up? Imagine the top 3/4's of an ice cream cone, and the ice cream is the speaker. It starts big, then gets smaller in diameter (approximately 4inches in diameter) then opens up into the body panel. That's what I'm thinking of doing. It'd look similar to this.

http://www.eternalyouth1489999.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/cone.jpg

isn't that effectively a waveguide? Waveguides can negatively effect things and accentuate certain frequencies more then others, especially if its constricting like that. Most waveguides start with a small driver (3/4"-2" driver to a 4"-15" expanding waveguide) to a large waveguide. Also constricting it like that would negate a lot of the drivers freq. response.

I wonder if you would gain anything by reverse mounting the driver?

That's what i had in mind too, was that it'd be a waveguide. And with the 8" being used for lower midbass only, the size of it would have issues due to the size and amplitude of the wavelength is produced in my opinion. But, i said to hell with putting the 8" in the kick, so i got started on putting the 6.5" in the kick, and i'll throw the 8" in the door. If it doesn't work/sound good to me, i'll take the L6 out, put the stock kick panel back in, and stick with a three-way front stage, and will have learned from the entire experience.

id relocate the hood release before id start messing with a design like that. hell, I run hlcd's and have had to modify/relocate hood releases in every car Ive installed them in.

is there a specific reason you dont want to move the release?

also, if I'm imagining what your saying right, the taper in the enclosure wouldnt be as drastic as the image you linked. right? the taper is just to avoid the hood release lever?

I don't want to move it because there's very little slack available, and after removing it from its mounting location and using what slack is available to see other possible mounting points, there are none, without getting a new cable made to length, and i don't care to fish a new cable through in order to make this work.

you're correct, the taper i would have done would not have been anywhere near as drastic as the image i provided, but i think it would have been enough to affect the sound reproduction, possibly created unwanted resonances, and may have even acted as a tuned port leading into the body panel, rather than an infinite baffle like i wanted.

but this thread is dead, i went a different way. Thank you for the input :) i do appreciate it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you ever do decided to try this and need to relocate the hood release it's relatively simple and cheap to extend and or shorten that cable.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you ever do decided to try this and need to relocate the hood release it's relatively simple and cheap to extend and or shorten that cable.

I think i may be able to gain some extra length in the cable without obtaining a new, longer one, due to how they routed it. It comes down through a gap the parking brake lever, which seemed odd to me, rather than above or below it, which if i were to pull it back through and reroute it above, that should gain me a few inches. But we'll see where i go with it when i return home and can work on it some more. I may just decide to use the HAT's for a different vehicle and try out some SQ, i've been considering it. i've got a lot of time to think about it between now and next spring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...