Efreakingt Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 So I've gotta get my wood for a false floor in my 2004 aviator (ford explorer body). I'm building it over the area my third row seat use to be in and I need a little advice. The dimensions of the area are 44 wide, 36 long. On the sides I have 4 inches of flat space and the ends have a few inches of flat space, everything in the middle is recessed. I planned on using my seat belt bolt holes to anchor the floor. I figured using flat 2x4 as slats to help brace the wood on the edges and across the recess. Now for the questions. First what type of wood should I use for the floor and what thickness? The sub box going over it weighs roughly 150-160lbs. As far as bracing, should I consider a central brace going to the floor along with the 2x4 slats? I want to keep a area big enough under the floor for my amps and fan near the front half, the sub will mount over the rear half and be anchored to the floor. The entire floor will be either carpeted or painted with bed liner (haven't decided yet). Mainly I want it to be sturdy enough to not sag, warp or break. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3vil Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 That estimated 160lbs of box is less than the weight of one adult male. In an area that was meant to seat at least 2 adults. I believe you're over thinking this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Efreakingt Posted June 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 I'm suspending a 160lb box over a area with wood, if the box would sit on the cars floor there'd be no issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3vil Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 Exactly, you are spreading a very small amount of weight across an area designed to bear loads. In must unibody cars the floor is much weaker than the seating area. Think about it, it's not like you could stand up in most cars. You place must I'd your weight on the seat, and very little on the floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MADVIBES Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 2x4 braces and 3/4" plywood, cheap shit from HD would work fine. using the seat bolt holes as anchors is a fantastic idea so you die from a speaker box death in a rear ending. however it would be dope to say you died by subwoofer! DB DRAG PSYCHLONE PRO 156.3 30 SECOND AVERAGE FO MAX AT 26HZ LEGAL DASH DRIVER DOOR OPEN 158.0@30 HZ MY BEST SO FAR, HOPEFULLY A 160 COME FEBUARY. 156.9@26hz 158.0@30hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yurvalentine Posted June 22, 2016 Report Share Posted June 22, 2016 2x4 braces and 3/4" plywood, cheap shit from HD would work fine. using the seat bolt holes as anchors is a fantastic idea so you die from a speaker box death in a rear ending. however it would be dope to say you died by subwoofer! Eh. If a seatbelt can hold an adult in their seat during an accident I wouldn't worry about some wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Efreakingt Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Well 1. The seat belt bolts are the main but not only anchor point I also have the factory cargo anchors at the rear to use and I'll be adding another set near the front. 2. The box itself will be anchored to the floor with 8 L braces and then built up around to not only hide the bracing but also be a extra bracing. I work daily in cargo hauling so I already know the effects of force on objects in your car. I've also seen a weak sub mounting almost allow 2 12's to fly free from their holes in a head on collision. If someone rear ends me hard enough to undo everything and then send a adult weighted object flying forward (going against rear force application) then I'm prolly dead even without a sub box hitting me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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