Brandon Dunn Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 I have a weird set up. I bought it just two days ago from a guy on craigslist where I live. The amp is a no name, that he says is only 1,000 watts, however the made in china sticker on the back of it says its a dx1500.1, only thing I can tell so far is its an amp from 2005, has no name, and the sticker says it is 1500.1, and it's a class D amp. It has 2 channels, and I only had the kicker comp R hooked up to the left channel I believe. I switched boxes because the box the sub was originally in was junk and was rattling it's behind off, the kid that owned this stuff apparently didn't know how to fasten a sub into a box and only had 4 screws holding it in, 1 of which was completely stripped and just kept getting vibrated right out of the box. Everything was great. I thought. The sub was hitting hard, the amp wasn't getting hot, etc. Then all the sudden no bass. I went back and opened my trunk and could hear what sounded like paper or flimsy metal rattling from the sub and it was seized. I can't get it to move an inch, or even a millimeter. It is solid stiff, like a rock. Being that I don't know the impedance of the amp I have, since it has no name and no other detail than what I was able to find as mentioned earlier, the sub when I put it into the different box, I noticed had an ohm selector on it. It was set to 1, so I just kept it there. Was that my mistake? Should I had it running 4 ohm rather than 1 ohm? Also, if the 1ohm is what I should have had that kicker set to and it just was too small for the amp all together, I was thinking of going with a 1,500 watt RMS skar audio ZVXv2. Any thoughts? I am fairly new to this as well. Is there a way to determine what would be best to run subs at, rather 1ohm or 2 on this no name amp I have? Would a DMM work to determine that? Any help is appreciated. Thank you in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 the problem is that you cooked that sub.. youre gains are not properly set that amp is not a 2 channel either.. the .1 means its a mono block. the reason for 2 outputs is to make wiring a sub easier my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Dunn Posted July 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 the problem is that you cooked that sub.. youre gains are not properly set that amp is not a 2 channel either.. the .1 means its a mono block. the reason for 2 outputs is to make wiring a sub easier The gain, or "sensitivity" was dialed almost all the way down to nothing, I think I might have turned it clockwise maybe less than 1mm, i mean just barely at all, and did the same with the bass boost. So what do I need to invest in, a 1500 watt RMS sub? No worries then, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Dunn Posted July 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Also what should I get for the next sub? Is having my kicker set to 1ohm what contributed to the issue or should it have been set to 1 ohm like it was and that's that and it was just too small? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkarredSierra Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Pics of amp would help determine what it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Dunn Posted July 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Pics of amp would help determine what it is. Here are two pics. I have it stuck by Velcro down to the trunk floor of my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Are those 30 Amp fuses its using? "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carnines Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Looks like a 1200 watter. Might put out 1k on a good day Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Dunn Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Are those 30 Amp fuses its using? Yes, four 30 amp fuses. Looks like a 1200 watter. Might put out 1k on a good day I thought so, I thought it was odd 1500 watts with just four fuses, but I am new to this arena. My last setup was a PPI sedona 1200.1 with 2 little pissy memphis PR-12's that were 250/500 watt. That was sweet, but I had it professionally installed and tuned and all that jazz. Fell on hard times though and had to let it go. Now I am in better times, but don't want all my trunk space gone to another dual dub box, so opted for single sub. I ordered a new sub, Power Akoustic MOFO-124X, hopefully that will do a lot better than the kicker did. So if the output is 2 but really only 1, do I just ignore the bridge thing it shows and run the positive to one side and the negative to the other output side? Or hook it up on one side like I had the kicker? When the kicker went I never smelled anything really, other than a leather like smell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Lancos Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Its a mono amp more than likely bridged internally so its the same either way you wire it. At least the 3 amps i have owned have been bridged... I'll do body filler all day every day, but this reinforced, fortified fucking kitty hair can kiss my balls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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