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Blew a 12" Kicker Comp R, thinking Skar Audio to replace?


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I have a weird set up. I bought it just two days ago from a guy on craigslist where I live. The amp is a no name, that he says is only 1,000 watts, however the made in china sticker on the back of it says its a dx1500.1, only thing I can tell so far is its an amp from 2005, has no name, and the sticker says it is 1500.1, and it's a class D amp. It has 2 channels, and I only had the kicker comp R hooked up to the left channel I believe.

I switched boxes because the box the sub was originally in was junk and was rattling it's behind off, the kid that owned this stuff apparently didn't know how to fasten a sub into a box and only had 4 screws holding it in, 1 of which was completely stripped and just kept getting vibrated right out of the box.

Everything was great. I thought. The sub was hitting hard, the amp wasn't getting hot, etc. Then all the sudden no bass. I went back and opened my trunk and could hear what sounded like paper or flimsy metal rattling from the sub and it was seized. I can't get it to move an inch, or even a millimeter. It is solid stiff, like a rock.

Being that I don't know the impedance of the amp I have, since it has no name and no other detail than what I was able to find as mentioned earlier, the sub when I put it into the different box, I noticed had an ohm selector on it. It was set to 1, so I just kept it there. Was that my mistake? Should I had it running 4 ohm rather than 1 ohm?

Also, if the 1ohm is what I should have had that kicker set to and it just was too small for the amp all together, I was thinking of going with a 1,500 watt RMS skar audio ZVXv2. Any thoughts?

I am fairly new to this as well. Is there a way to determine what would be best to run subs at, rather 1ohm or 2 on this no name amp I have? Would a DMM work to determine that?

Any help is appreciated. Thank you in advance.

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the problem is that you cooked that sub.. youre gains are not properly set

that amp is not a 2 channel either.. the .1 means its a mono block. the reason for 2 outputs is to make wiring a sub easier

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the problem is that you cooked that sub.. youre gains are not properly set

that amp is not a 2 channel either.. the .1 means its a mono block. the reason for 2 outputs is to make wiring a sub easier

The gain, or "sensitivity" was dialed almost all the way down to nothing, I think I might have turned it clockwise maybe less than 1mm, i mean just barely at all, and did the same with the bass boost. So what do I need to invest in, a 1500 watt RMS sub? No worries then, right?

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Are those 30 Amp fuses its using?

Yes, four 30 amp fuses.

Looks like a 1200 watter. Might put out 1k on a good day

I thought so, I thought it was odd 1500 watts with just four fuses, but I am new to this arena. My last setup was a PPI sedona 1200.1 with 2 little pissy memphis PR-12's that were 250/500 watt. That was sweet, but I had it professionally installed and tuned and all that jazz. Fell on hard times though and had to let it go. Now I am in better times, but don't want all my trunk space gone to another dual dub box, so opted for single sub. I ordered a new sub, Power Akoustic MOFO-124X, hopefully that will do a lot better than the kicker did. So if the output is 2 but really only 1, do I just ignore the bridge thing it shows and run the positive to one side and the negative to the other output side? Or hook it up on one side like I had the kicker? When the kicker went I never smelled anything really, other than a leather like smell.

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