Haro Christian Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Hey everyone! So I've got 6 Kicker L7 15's that I am going to run on 3 - Massive N4 Amps. Basically I need advice for the new box I'm wanting to build. I kind of have an idea of what i want it to look like BUT get stuck when it comes to port sizes. I attached a quick sketch. -This set up is NOT for my daily driver (2005 Cadillac Escalade ESV) and I listen to different music genres but mostly EDM and RAP.-I want them to pound and hit lows well when I turn em up-The maximum space I can use is: W:54in. x H:21in. x D:57in. so up to 32.88 cubic feet of gross volume, if it was one whole box. (The height can vary a few inches.) I was thinking of dividing this into 3 boxes within, for example, have one full piece top, bottom, sides and just have 3 walls inside dividing each set of 2-woofers. -The woofers and port(s) will be facing up. I know Kicker recommends up to 6 cu. ft. of net volume per sub for these subs for "SPL/DeepBass".Overall my questions are:-How many cubic feet should I make my box?-What frequency should I tune my box to? -Any other hints based on my needs? Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Assuming you will be giving 1000W each you can do some 5 net per driver and some 50-55 square inches of port area for each, tuning is a matter of preference but bear in mind that lower tuning means larger port displacement so you need to consider that, if you are going for the deep bass don't tune much above 35Hz or you might miss it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haro Christian Posted August 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 Assuming you will be giving 1000W each you can do some 5 net per driver and some 50-55 square inches of port area for each, tuning is a matter of preference but bear in mind that lower tuning means larger port displacement so you need to consider that, if you are going for the deep bass don't tune much above 35Hz or you might miss it. PORTS.. that's where I get stuck at, sorta, or should i say confuse myself... a lot, might just be over thinking it lol.. I plugged in the measurements, per box, and this is what I got. I only did it per box so i can know where i would be dividing the main box per 2 subs, not sure if I explain myself. If this is indeed the proper measurements, the final box would be 20" H x 54" W x 60" D with a wall divider at every 20" Playing around with the port size, this is what it gave me tuned at about 35Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasteland_Audio Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 So a few questions. First, where are you measuring the width? The maximum width in the back of an 05 esky with the plastic still in is 49", and about 50.5" without plastic. Unfortunately getting 36ft3 in the back of one of those is pretty hard without building a wall. However I have drawn up a box that will work with what you are trying to accomplish. It comes out to 3ft3 per sub and tuned to 33hz. Having the subs up and the port back toward the hatch will be a lot louder than both firing up, and the center port will brace the baffle. This enclosure is designed to drop right in without modifying anything in the back end of the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 since this is not your daily vehicle...... WALL IT!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haro Christian Posted August 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 So a few questions. First, where are you measuring the width? The maximum width in the back of an 05 esky with the plastic still in is 49", and about 50.5" without plastic. Unfortunately getting 36ft3 in the back of one of those is pretty hard without building a wall. However I have drawn up a box that will work with what you are trying to accomplish. It comes out to 3ft3 per sub and tuned to 33hz. Having the subs up and the port back toward the hatch will be a lot louder than both firing up, and the center port will brace the baffle. This enclosure is designed to drop right in without modifying anything in the back end of the vehicle. WOW! That is sick!!! Much better than BassBox software. Ok back to the topic, I already have 4-15" L7's in a sealed box in there, if I'm not mistaking, I measured the width of the current box and when I had nothing in the back, I measured about 60" or so depth (with 3rd row out). This is a ESV Escalade, not sure if it adds a few inches in the width but I will most definitely re-measure when I get home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haro Christian Posted August 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 since this is not your daily vehicle...... WALL IT!!!!!!! Yeah bro I thought about doing that but where I get confused in is the whole port measurement thing to tune it properly. I mean, I have the room to do it, just need help designing to get the needed space per sub and port Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 maybe these guys could help you out if you are serious they would need max dimensions to start Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkarredSierra Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 If you do it make a build log with lots of pics and vids Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasteland_Audio Posted August 3, 2016 Report Share Posted August 3, 2016 So a few questions. First, where are you measuring the width? The maximum width in the back of an 05 esky with the plastic still in is 49", and about 50.5" without plastic. Unfortunately getting 36ft3 in the back of one of those is pretty hard without building a wall. However I have drawn up a box that will work with what you are trying to accomplish. It comes out to 3ft3 per sub and tuned to 33hz. Having the subs up and the port back toward the hatch will be a lot louder than both firing up, and the center port will brace the baffle. This enclosure is designed to drop right in without modifying anything in the back end of the vehicle. WOW! That is sick!!! Much better than BassBox software. Ok back to the topic, I already have 4-15" L7's in a sealed box in there, if I'm not mistaking, I measured the width of the current box and when I had nothing in the back, I measured about 60" or so depth (with 3rd row out). This is a ESV Escalade, not sure if it adds a few inches in the width but I will most definitely re-measure when I get home. I use Google Sketchup to build and Torres to calculate port lengths. They are both free and work better than anything else I've found. But anyway the whole reason I was asking about the measurements is because I have a 2004 Suburban and the back end of those are pretty much identical to your Escalade. As far as building a wall goes it is a much more involved process. I just finished up a wall in my Suburban with 2 18" DCs and learned that the hard way lol. I would suggest trying out building a box first and seeing if it works out before jumping into the wonderful world of walls. If you do decide that a wall is what you want tho I would be more than happy to give any advice you need. Here is a link to my current build log, Check it out and see if it would be something you'd be interested in doing something like that. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205346-2004-burb-out-with-the-old-in-with-the-new-2-dc-18-wall/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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