Need Advice - 6-15" Kicker L7's

[Haro Christian]

So a few questions. First, where are you measuring the width? The maximum width in the back of an 05 esky with the plastic still in is 49", and about 50.5" without plastic. Unfortunately getting 36ft3 in the back of one of those is pretty hard without building a wall. However I have drawn up a box that will work with what you are trying to accomplish. It comes out to 3ft3 per sub and tuned to 33hz. Having the subs up and the port back toward the hatch will be a lot louder than both firing up, and the center port will brace the baffle. This enclosure is designed to drop right in without modifying anything in the back end of the vehicle.

WOW! That is sick!!! Much better than BassBox software.

Ok back to the topic, I already have 4-15" L7's in a sealed box in there, if I'm not mistaking, I measured the width of the current box and when I had nothing in the back, I measured about 60" or so depth (with 3rd row out). This is a ESV Escalade, not sure if it adds a few inches in the width but I will most definitely re-measure when I get home.

I use Google Sketchup to build and Torres to calculate port lengths. They are both free and work better than anything else I've found. But anyway the whole reason I was asking about the measurements is because I have a 2004 Suburban and the back end of those are pretty much identical to your Escalade. As far as building a wall goes it is a much more involved process. I just finished up a wall in my Suburban with 2 18" DCs and learned that the hard way lol. I would suggest trying out building a box first and seeing if it works out before jumping into the wonderful world of walls. If you do decide that a wall is what you want tho I would be more than happy to give any advice you need. Here is a link to my current build log, Check it out and see if it would be something you'd be interested in doing something like that.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205346-2004-burb-out-with-the-old-in-with-the-new-2-dc-18-wall/

Ok, here is a pic of what I have in it now, the work was sprayed red for a carshow down here in Houston TX called Los Magnificos (which I got 1st Place on btw ) but then got tired of the red cuz it was too bright in my opinion so I sanded it down and shot primer but never got around to spraying it another color. I have the side panels off because I had taken the whole thing out to measure a few weeks back.

Not too good of a pic but...

It measures 55" wide but actual box under panel is 54", I was too lazy to take the whole thing apart.

I'll check out your post.

[Haro Christian]

If you do it make a build log with lots of pics and vids

I sure will bud

[Wasteland_Audio]

So a few questions. First, where are you measuring the width? The maximum width in the back of an 05 esky with the plastic still in is 49", and about 50.5" without plastic. Unfortunately getting 36ft3 in the back of one of those is pretty hard without building a wall. However I have drawn up a box that will work with what you are trying to accomplish. It comes out to 3ft3 per sub and tuned to 33hz. Having the subs up and the port back toward the hatch will be a lot louder than both firing up, and the center port will brace the baffle. This enclosure is designed to drop right in without modifying anything in the back end of the vehicle.

WOW! That is sick!!! Much better than BassBox software.

Ok back to the topic, I already have 4-15" L7's in a sealed box in there, if I'm not mistaking, I measured the width of the current box and when I had nothing in the back, I measured about 60" or so depth (with 3rd row out). This is a ESV Escalade, not sure if it adds a few inches in the width but I will most definitely re-measure when I get home.

I use Google Sketchup to build and Torres to calculate port lengths. They are both free and work better than anything else I've found. But anyway the whole reason I was asking about the measurements is because I have a 2004 Suburban and the back end of those are pretty much identical to your Escalade. As far as building a wall goes it is a much more involved process. I just finished up a wall in my Suburban with 2 18" DCs and learned that the hard way lol. I would suggest trying out building a box first and seeing if it works out before jumping into the wonderful world of walls. If you do decide that a wall is what you want tho I would be more than happy to give any advice you need. Here is a link to my current build log, Check it out and see if it would be something you'd be interested in doing something like that.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205346-2004-burb-out-with-the-old-in-with-the-new-2-dc-18-wall/

Ok, here is a pic of what I have in it now, the work was sprayed red for a carshow down here in Houston TX called Los Magnificos (which I got 1st Place on btw ) but then got tired of the red cuz it was too bright in my opinion so I sanded it down and shot primer but never got around to spraying it another color. I have the side panels off because I had taken the whole thing out to measure a few weeks back.

Not too good of a pic but...

It measures 55" wide but actual box under panel is 54", I was too lazy to take the whole thing apart.

I'll check out your post.

Damn, that isn't what I was expecting lol. I didn't realize you had a full fiberglass build. In that case it changes a few things. I'm sure that all the stock plastic was removed but to add 2 more subs you would have to pretty much rip all that out and re-do it. Did you do all the work or was it done at a shop?

[juan777]

If you're serious about walling it and in Houston hit up Lone Star Auto Works on FB: https://www.facebook.com/lonestarautoworks/?fref=ts

They do all my interior work and recently just walled a Hummer H2 with 2 21"

Be prepared to spend a few grand though.

[Haro Christian]

So a few questions. First, where are you measuring the width? The maximum width in the back of an 05 esky with the plastic still in is 49", and about 50.5" without plastic. Unfortunately getting 36ft3 in the back of one of those is pretty hard without building a wall. However I have drawn up a box that will work with what you are trying to accomplish. It comes out to 3ft3 per sub and tuned to 33hz. Having the subs up and the port back toward the hatch will be a lot louder than both firing up, and the center port will brace the baffle. This enclosure is designed to drop right in without modifying anything in the back end of the vehicle.

WOW! That is sick!!! Much better than BassBox software.

Ok back to the topic, I already have 4-15" L7's in a sealed box in there, if I'm not mistaking, I measured the width of the current box and when I had nothing in the back, I measured about 60" or so depth (with 3rd row out). This is a ESV Escalade, not sure if it adds a few inches in the width but I will most definitely re-measure when I get home.

I use Google Sketchup to build and Torres to calculate port lengths. They are both free and work better than anything else I've found. But anyway the whole reason I was asking about the measurements is because I have a 2004 Suburban and the back end of those are pretty much identical to your Escalade. As far as building a wall goes it is a much more involved process. I just finished up a wall in my Suburban with 2 18" DCs and learned that the hard way lol. I would suggest trying out building a box first and seeing if it works out before jumping into the wonderful world of walls. If you do decide that a wall is what you want tho I would be more than happy to give any advice you need. Here is a link to my current build log, Check it out and see if it would be something you'd be interested in doing something like that.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205346-2004-burb-out-with-the-old-in-with-the-new-2-dc-18-wall/

Ok, here is a pic of what I have in it now, the work was sprayed red for a carshow down here in Houston TX called Los Magnificos (which I got 1st Place on btw ) but then got tired of the red cuz it was too bright in my opinion so I sanded it down and shot primer but never got around to spraying it another color. I have the side panels off because I had taken the whole thing out to measure a few weeks back.

Not too good of a pic but...

It measures 55" wide but actual box under panel is 54", I was too lazy to take the whole thing apart.

I'll check out your post.

Damn, that isn't what I was expecting lol. I didn't realize you had a full fiberglass build. In that case it changes a few things. I'm sure that all the stock plastic was removed but to add 2 more subs you would have to pretty much rip all that out and re-do it. Did you do all the work or was it done at a shop?

lol haha yeah well box is MDF sealed and fiberglassed inside for strength support, everything else is normal MDF skeleton & fiberglass. I understand that i will pretty much be starting from scratch and i dont mind, as long as i get the 6 15s ported correctly lol. All the work was done at a shop, well some guys garage but he moved and I lost track of him. He did pretty good work, his shop goes/went by Toyz4Cars. The picture and primer does no justice plus for it being a sealed box, it sounds nice.

I was looking at your post and it is coming out super nice but I'll take your advice and start with a box how you designed on this post and just build panels w/speaker pods in them. Main thing is the woofer box though, but the port crap always gets me. Maybe after this built, later down the road I'll make a wall build my next project.

Using your design but these measurements 54"W 22"H(Variable but rather not get too high) and 50"-55"D, what would the port measurements be? could you sketch it please?

[Haro Christian]

If you're serious about walling it and in Houston hit up Lone Star Auto Works on FB: https://www.facebook.com/lonestarautoworks/?fref=ts

They do all my interior work and recently just walled a Hummer H2 with 2 21"

Be prepared to spend a few grand though.

I am going to need some interior work, redo my door panels and I replaced my middle row to captain seats will need to match what I already have. Are they reasonable in price?

[juan777]

If you're serious about walling it and in Houston hit up Lone Star Auto Works on FB: https://www.facebook.com/lonestarautoworks/?fref=ts

They do all my interior work and recently just walled a Hummer H2 with 2 21"

Be prepared to spend a few grand though.

I am going to need some interior work, redo my door panels and I replaced my middle row to captain seats will need to match what I already have. Are they reasonable in price?

yes

[Wasteland_Audio]

So a few questions. First, where are you measuring the width? The maximum width in the back of an 05 esky with the plastic still in is 49", and about 50.5" without plastic. Unfortunately getting 36ft3 in the back of one of those is pretty hard without building a wall. However I have drawn up a box that will work with what you are trying to accomplish. It comes out to 3ft3 per sub and tuned to 33hz. Having the subs up and the port back toward the hatch will be a lot louder than both firing up, and the center port will brace the baffle. This enclosure is designed to drop right in without modifying anything in the back end of the vehicle.

WOW! That is sick!!! Much better than BassBox software.

Ok back to the topic, I already have 4-15" L7's in a sealed box in there, if I'm not mistaking, I measured the width of the current box and when I had nothing in the back, I measured about 60" or so depth (with 3rd row out). This is a ESV Escalade, not sure if it adds a few inches in the width but I will most definitely re-measure when I get home.

I use Google Sketchup to build and Torres to calculate port lengths. They are both free and work better than anything else I've found. But anyway the whole reason I was asking about the measurements is because I have a 2004 Suburban and the back end of those are pretty much identical to your Escalade. As far as building a wall goes it is a much more involved process. I just finished up a wall in my Suburban with 2 18" DCs and learned that the hard way lol. I would suggest trying out building a box first and seeing if it works out before jumping into the wonderful world of walls. If you do decide that a wall is what you want tho I would be more than happy to give any advice you need. Here is a link to my current build log, Check it out and see if it would be something you'd be interested in doing something like that.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/205346-2004-burb-out-with-the-old-in-with-the-new-2-dc-18-wall/

Ok, here is a pic of what I have in it now, the work was sprayed red for a carshow down here in Houston TX called Los Magnificos (which I got 1st Place on btw ) but then got tired of the red cuz it was too bright in my opinion so I sanded it down and shot primer but never got around to spraying it another color. I have the side panels off because I had taken the whole thing out to measure a few weeks back.

Not too good of a pic but...

It measures 55" wide but actual box under panel is 54", I was too lazy to take the whole thing apart.

I'll check out your post.

Damn, that isn't what I was expecting lol. I didn't realize you had a full fiberglass build. In that case it changes a few things. I'm sure that all the stock plastic was removed but to add 2 more subs you would have to pretty much rip all that out and re-do it. Did you do all the work or was it done at a shop?

lol haha yeah well box is MDF sealed and fiberglassed inside for strength support, everything else is normal MDF skeleton & fiberglass. I understand that i will pretty much be starting from scratch and i dont mind, as long as i get the 6 15s ported correctly lol. All the work was done at a shop, well some guys garage but he moved and I lost track of him. He did pretty good work, his shop goes by Toyz4Cars, Artis Davis on FaceBook. The picture and primer does no justice plus for it being a sealed box, it sounds nice.

I was looking at your post and it is coming out super nice but I'll take your advice and start with a box how you designed on this post and just build panels w/speaker pods in them. Main thing is the woofer box though, but the port crap always gets me. Maybe after this built, later down the road I'll make a wall build my next project.

Using your design but these measurements 54"W 22"H(Variable but rather not get too high) and 50"-55"D, what would the port measurements be? could you sketch it please?

Well keep in mind that to do that you would need to make cut outs for the fender wells along the bottom edges of the box to get that kind of width, which isn't an issue or anything but it would take a small amount of volume out of your gross. As far as depth goes i would make sure that you have a minimum of 5 - 6" between the back of the box and the inside of your hatch or you'll choke the port. Everything else is just planning and figuring out what works. I've added a screenshot of these specs loaded into Torres and it will give you a good idea of what to expect for volume and tuning. If you plan on building this exact box make sure you follow the port specs or you could drastically change the tuning and be unhappy with it. As far as the sketchup design goes give me a few and I'll be able to redo one. Make sure you start a build log too, I'm sure everyone here wants to see how it turns out!

[Wasteland_Audio]

Ok so here is an updated model. Keep in mind I didn't add the cutouts as I don't know the exact placement but it won't be hard to just cut them out and fiberglass them in. I think you would be very happy with how this would turn out. I would recommend adding a couple braces between the baffle and bottom of the box on the non-ported end.

[Haro Christian]

Ok so here is an updated model. Keep in mind I didn't add the cutouts as I don't know the exact placement but it won't be hard to just cut them out and fiberglass them in. I think you would be very happy with how this would turn out. I would recommend adding a couple braces between the baffle and bottom of the box on the non-ported end.

OMGEEEEE DUDE I LOVE YOU!!! lol You are awesome! I sure will log with pics and all the good stuff. Im waiting on my friend to get back in town since he is a wood worker he has all the tools ill need for the job plus knowledge in building lol. now that i have a much better idea of the port size, should i keep it how you have it tuned to or adjust it per the type of music i mostly listen to which is pretty much a little bit of everything from low bass to high.