Bass Knob set gain with it up or down?
#1
Posted 06 July 2008 - 05:35 PM
but i see in alot of vids when ppl turn the bass knob down they have almost no bass, when i turn mine down its just like having it unplugged
so do you set the gains with the knob up or what?
#2
Posted 06 July 2008 - 05:49 PM
The bass is still loud as fawk with the boost down all the way
From what Ive read they are using a different kind of knob
The knob they use adjusts the signal to the amps not the boost
Team T3 Audio
Rockford Fosgate
Ohio Generator
Second Skin
03 Trailblazer build
90 Accord coupe build
meade916, on Sep 3 2009, 02:15 PM, said:
#3
Posted 06 July 2008 - 05:53 PM
may03LT, on Jul 6 2008, 08:49 PM, said:
The bass is still loud as fawk with the boost down all the way
From what Ive read they are using a different kind of knob
The knob they use adjusts the signal to the amps not the boost
Could this be a voltage regulator? I am not sure, but may not be a bad thing to look into?
#4
Posted 06 July 2008 - 05:56 PM
#5
Posted 07 July 2008 - 02:51 PM
When you sit in a vehicle where the user cranks the system up and reducing the "bass knob" fully has little or zero effect at this volume level, the amplifier is being driven into HARD clipping. The "knob" gives the user up to 18 dB of boost at 45 Hz - that's a BUNCH and it takes a BUNCH of headroom at the boosted frequency. But, if an amp is driven into clipping with the knob all the way down, increasing it to MAX will have little or no effect . . .
At the end of the day, we call this circuit "the Punch" and have used it in one form or another since 1973. This circuit demands alot on an amplifier and is one of the main reasons we design our amps like we do.
#6
Posted 08 July 2008 - 09:26 PM
snafu, on Jul 7 2008, 02:51 PM, said:
When you sit in a vehicle where the user cranks the system up and reducing the "bass knob" fully has little or zero effect at this volume level, the amplifier is being driven into HARD clipping. The "knob" gives the user up to 18 dB of boost at 45 Hz - that's a BUNCH and it takes a BUNCH of headroom at the boosted frequency. But, if an amp is driven into clipping with the knob all the way down, increasing it to MAX will have little or no effect . . .
At the end of the day, we call this circuit "the Punch" and have used it in one form or another since 1973. This circuit demands alot on an amplifier and is one of the main reasons we design our amps like we do.
thanks for that piece of info
#8
Posted 08 July 2008 - 09:48 PM
littleitaly1990, on Jul 8 2008, 09:38 PM, said:
set your gain with the knob maxxed out and volumn on your deck a little over 3/4 so that you have room for different music.
(6) DC AUDIO Level4XL fifteens
(3) Powrbass XA4000D -for the subs
Iraggi 300 amp alt
Powermaster batteries
ALL FOR SALE


TEAM DC AUDIO
TEAM DIRTFLOORPOOR
#9
Posted 08 July 2008 - 10:44 PM
jack, on Jul 9 2008, 12:48 AM, said:
X2
I do mine with the knob at 50%. I haven't screwed up any subs in about 3 years.
A cap is only good if you have 0 voltage loss and want to clean up the power at the peaks of the ripples..
Boon: Don't get hung up on specs like xmax. It's probably the third-most lied about spec, after power handling and sensitivity.
"Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go."
was the fact I won't get to find out whats going to happen tomorrow if I die today.
Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
The Destruction of a person builds character.
Hoo-Bangin' on the transformers
Getting my stalk on walk on "Skip skip"
Sack jacking purse snatching hoo-banging till I die
#10
Posted 11 July 2008 - 11:03 AM
littleitaly1990, on Jul 8 2008, 09:38 PM, said:
That's a good question! It seems like no matter how much power you have, you always need more . . . the trick to getting the maximum performance and reliability from an audio system is in the design and tuning phase. This is a somewhat complex topic, but consider the following two car guys:
- Car Guy # 1 - adds a turbo, intake, exhaust, hotter ignition, and a generic chip to his vehicle. Bolts all the stuff on as quickly as possible and takes every short cut in the book to get it runnin' by cruisin' time that night. Although the vehicle runs far better than stock, the tune in it is generic. The combo of the hasty install and the generic tune ensures that the full performance of the new parts is not realized. Solution? Crank up the boost! Soon realizes that 15 pounds of boost was too much for the stock bottom end of the motor as he's picking up the "weak parts" he left on the road.
- Car Guy # 2- does a little homework on the front side to ensure that the parts he buys will work well with his motor to begin with - he ends up with a similar combo to Car Guy # 1. This guy spends three weekends on the install, ensuring every bolt is tight, every electrical connection is soldered, and that all the new parts fit as they should. In the coming week, he has an appointment with the local tuner to strap his car on the dyno so that he can 'eek every bit of performance available from the parts combo, as well as tune the vehicle so that the parts combination works safely together. His tuner educates him on how much boost he can run before the bottom end of his motor is in jeopardy as well as how many RPM he can safely spin the motor to. When he leaves, not only does his car run well, but it will run that way for as long as he operates it within the parameters of the parts.
The same adage goes for car audio. Plan, install, and tune. If you intend to bolt a Punch Bass knob under your dash, understand that increasing it to MAX will require your amplifier to produce 18dB more output at 45 HZ. Let's just say that you were playing at an average level of 50 watts RMS with the knob turned down all the way - how much power would that require?
50 watts @ 0 dB boost
100 watts @ 3 dB boost
200 watts @ 6 dB of boost
400 watts @ 9 dB of boost
800 watts @ 12 dB of boost
1600 watts @ 15 dB of boost
3200 watts @ 18 dB of boost
So, let's say that you had a 500 watt RMS amplifier of ours . . . turning the knob past half way up at this volume setting is useless. Now, who could say how loud an average of 50 watts RMS is in YOUR system? Pretty tough . . . but, you should be able to train your ears to hear clipping. A little is OK, but when you continue to turn the volume up and the volume does not increase, the amplifier is driven into HARD clipping.
The clipped part of a sine wave has very little energy that a speaker can convert into acoustical energy. But it DOES contain a bunch of energy that will heat the voice coil - this can be about as much as the amplifiers RMS output! Heat is the enemy of a voice coil, so operating an amplifier into hard clipping for an extended period of time will ensure that you'll have to swap your speakers often. No matter what their RMS rating is, if you make a habit of clipping your amplifier(s) all day long every day, you will have speaker failures.
I hope this helps.
#11
Posted 24 July 2008 - 01:15 PM
however, snafu, my understanding is this:
I am getting an RF T1k in about a week here - it's already on the way actually.
I should turn my bass knob ALL THE WAY UP, set the volume at 80%, and use my DMM to set it to about 34 AC Volts, or 11-1200 watts.
Then, if I want less bass, I can turn the knob DOWN but if I want maximum I can turn it back up all the way without damaging any equipmetn?
Thanks for your help on this
1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L
(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm
with Shock and Proximity
(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)
(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator
(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0
(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell
(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver
(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device
(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers
(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface
(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers
(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)
(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils
(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz
(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier
(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)
(1) Stinger Volt Meter
#12
Posted 24 July 2008 - 01:16 PM
Stereo: Alpine CDA-105 w/ 120gb iPod
Mids/highs: Pioneer TS-G6842R
Subwoofer: Audiopipe TXX-AP12B
Box: 2.7^3' prefab
Amp: Pioneer monoblock 600w rms @ 2ohms
Electrical: Stock
Quote
#13
Posted 24 July 2008 - 01:21 PM
I'm fresh out of a budget - good news though because I got everything ordered I wanted to
Now if anyone has input on my question above great!
if nto i'll look into that emat thanks
1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L
(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm
with Shock and Proximity
(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)
(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator
(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0
(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell
(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver
(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device
(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers
(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface
(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers
(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)
(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils
(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz
(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier
(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)
(1) Stinger Volt Meter
#14
Posted 28 July 2008 - 05:14 PM
Bass4Lyfe, on Jul 24 2008, 01:15 PM, said:
however, snafu, my understanding is this:
I am getting an RF T1k in about a week here - it's already on the way actually.
I should turn my bass knob ALL THE WAY UP, set the volume at 80%, and use my DMM to set it to about 34 AC Volts, or 11-1200 watts.
Then, if I want less bass, I can turn the knob DOWN but if I want maximum I can turn it back up all the way without damaging any equipmetn?
Thanks for your help on this
34 x 34 / 1 ohm = 1156 watts. Although what you outline may be you close, I'd say do the above with the knob all they way down. You want a little "overlap" with a subwoofer amp and some clipping is OK. I really don't prefer this method, but it could be a good start. A test CD, like what we supply with our 3Sixty would be helpful. I'd start with the 40 Hz @ odB track. If that wasn't enough output, I'd move to the 40 Hz @ -5dB track (5dB of overlap). If this was still not enough output, I'd switch to the 40 Hz @ -10dB output (10 dB of overlap).
Good luck!
#15
Posted 30 July 2008 - 04:12 PM
i'll re-tune it tonighit and see if i can't get it working right! with more voltage that'll help also
1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L
(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm
with Shock and Proximity
(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)
(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator
(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0
(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell
(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver
(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device
(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers
(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface
(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers
(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)
(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils
(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz
(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier
(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)
(1) Stinger Volt Meter
#16
Posted 30 July 2008 - 04:16 PM
#17
Posted 24 June 2009 - 09:26 PM
snafu, on Jul 28 2008, 06:14 PM, said:
Good luck!
Wow snafu, that is a lot of information for someone like me to handle. I have a 3sixty.1 and I am about to install a hifonics bxi2610d in a couple days. I just want to be able to put my volume up and turn both my knobs all the way up and not clip lol. What can you tell me to do that a ten year old could understand haha.
#18
Posted 24 June 2009 - 09:40 PM
1. an inline RCA bass knob
2. it sounds better
b slaps is right Steve can control how much bass is actually being put out with his "eq knob" from his 3Sixty and then boost with the Rockford bass knob.
I have a 7-band EQ with a bass knob and there is an easy way to tell if you are trying to get too much out of your amp.
turn the bass boost all the way up at your select frequency and have the bass knob on your eq all the way down.
turn the volume up and ease up the bass knob... once you find the spot where it doesn't get any louder is where it is most likely starting to clip or you have reached your maximum.
the gain on my amp is turned all the way down because the eq puts out 7 volts and the RF only really accepts 5 IIRC.
Rockford Fosgate!
DC Power Alternators FTW!
HD Bass Videos Subscribe!!
kingsuv, on Feb 20 2010, 11:07 PM, said:
#19
Posted 24 June 2009 - 09:46 PM
pioneer 5100 deck
infinity kappa 6.5 components front and rear
kinetik hc 600
polk momo 400.4
DC audio lvl4
audioque 2200d
big 3
iraggi 220a alt
479-419-8510
PROUD MEMBER OF TEAM DC AUDIO

#20
Posted 24 June 2009 - 09:50 PM
thehoe92, on Jun 24 2009, 10:40 PM, said:
1. an inline RCA bass knob
2. it sounds better
b slaps is right Steve can control how much bass is actually being put out with his "eq knob" from his 3Sixty and then boost with the Rockford bass knob.
I have a 7-band EQ with a bass knob and there is an easy way to tell if you are trying to get too much out of your amp.
turn the bass boost all the way up at your select frequency and have the bass knob on your eq all the way down.
turn the volume up and ease up the bass knob... once you find the spot where it doesn't get any louder is where it is most likely starting to clip or you have reached your maximum.
the gain on my amp is turned all the way down because the eq puts out 7 volts and the RF only really accepts 5 IIRC.
Alright Kasey I think I got it. turn it to the freq., bass boost all the way up, put my volume up to what ever I play it at(40/62), slowly turn up my 3sixty knob until I can't hear it get any louder? Then my amp knob will just make it... louder, but not kill my BTL? Did I get all that right? lol @ me

Sign In
Register
Help



















Add Reply


MultiQuote












