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Bass Knob set gain with it up or down?

#1 User is online   qu1cks1lver56 Icon

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Posted 06 July 2008 - 05:35 PM

i just put my bass knob in and i really like havin the ability to add a little bass to a song that lacks it.
but i see in alot of vids when ppl turn the bass knob down they have almost no bass, when i turn mine down its just like having it unplugged
so do you set the gains with the knob up or what?
My system:
CDA-9887
RF P450.4
RF T1k
RF Punch 6.5" Components
RF FNP 5.25" Components
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.4 cf sealed downfire

View PostDownSouthCustom, on Jul 8 2009, 02:56 PM, said:

Trust me .25 Blows your Load.
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#2 User is offline   may03LT Icon

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Posted 06 July 2008 - 05:49 PM

I thought the same thing when I installed my T2K
The bass is still loud as fawk with the boost down all the way
From what Ive read they are using a different kind of knob
The knob they use adjusts the signal to the amps not the boost
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Posted 06 July 2008 - 05:53 PM

View Postmay03LT, on Jul 6 2008, 08:49 PM, said:

I thought the same thing when I installed my T2K
The bass is still loud as fawk with the boost down all the way
From what Ive read they are using a different kind of knob
The knob they use adjusts the signal to the amps not the boost


Could this be a voltage regulator? I am not sure, but may not be a bad thing to look into?
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#4 User is online   qu1cks1lver56 Icon

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Posted 06 July 2008 - 05:56 PM

i thought it was just the bass knob that comes with the RF amps?
My system:
CDA-9887
RF P450.4
RF T1k
RF Punch 6.5" Components
RF FNP 5.25" Components
MB Quart 3.5" Coax's
AA Assassin 8"
.4 cf sealed downfire

View PostDownSouthCustom, on Jul 8 2009, 02:56 PM, said:

Trust me .25 Blows your Load.
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#5 User is offline   snafu Icon

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Posted 07 July 2008 - 02:51 PM

Our "bass knobs" are simply equalizers. Depending on what era of amp you have from us, it may be 45 Hz (through 2k3), adjustable from 35 - 70 Hz (2k4 - 2k8 Power Elite), or 45 Hz / 12 Khz (PEQ).

When you sit in a vehicle where the user cranks the system up and reducing the "bass knob" fully has little or zero effect at this volume level, the amplifier is being driven into HARD clipping. The "knob" gives the user up to 18 dB of boost at 45 Hz - that's a BUNCH and it takes a BUNCH of headroom at the boosted frequency. But, if an amp is driven into clipping with the knob all the way down, increasing it to MAX will have little or no effect . . .

At the end of the day, we call this circuit "the Punch" and have used it in one form or another since 1973. This circuit demands alot on an amplifier and is one of the main reasons we design our amps like we do.
Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing

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#6 User is online   qu1cks1lver56 Icon

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Posted 08 July 2008 - 09:26 PM

View Postsnafu, on Jul 7 2008, 02:51 PM, said:

Our "bass knobs" are simply equalizers. Depending on what era of amp you have from us, it may be 45 Hz (through 2k3), adjustable from 35 - 70 Hz (2k4 - 2k8 Power Elite), or 45 Hz / 12 Khz (PEQ).

When you sit in a vehicle where the user cranks the system up and reducing the "bass knob" fully has little or zero effect at this volume level, the amplifier is being driven into HARD clipping. The "knob" gives the user up to 18 dB of boost at 45 Hz - that's a BUNCH and it takes a BUNCH of headroom at the boosted frequency. But, if an amp is driven into clipping with the knob all the way down, increasing it to MAX will have little or no effect . . .

At the end of the day, we call this circuit "the Punch" and have used it in one form or another since 1973. This circuit demands alot on an amplifier and is one of the main reasons we design our amps like we do.


thanks for that piece of info
My system:
CDA-9887
RF P450.4
RF T1k
RF Punch 6.5" Components
RF FNP 5.25" Components
MB Quart 3.5" Coax's
AA Assassin 8"
.4 cf sealed downfire

View PostDownSouthCustom, on Jul 8 2009, 02:56 PM, said:

Trust me .25 Blows your Load.
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#7 User is offline   littleitaly1990 Icon

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Posted 08 July 2008 - 09:38 PM

how can we prevent a bass knob from driving the amp into clipping and still use the bass knob??
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#8 User is offline   jack Icon

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Posted 08 July 2008 - 09:48 PM

View Postlittleitaly1990, on Jul 8 2008, 09:38 PM, said:

how can we prevent a bass knob from driving the amp into clipping and still use the bass knob??

set your gain with the knob maxxed out and volumn on your deck a little over 3/4 so that you have room for different music.
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Posted 08 July 2008 - 10:44 PM

View Postjack, on Jul 9 2008, 12:48 AM, said:

set your gain with the knob maxxed out and volumn on your deck a little over 3/4 so that you have room for different music.

X2
I do mine with the knob at 50%. I haven't screwed up any subs in about 3 years.
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#10 User is offline   snafu Icon

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Posted 11 July 2008 - 11:03 AM

View Postlittleitaly1990, on Jul 8 2008, 09:38 PM, said:

how can we prevent a bass knob from driving the amp into clipping and still use the bass knob??


That's a good question! It seems like no matter how much power you have, you always need more . . . the trick to getting the maximum performance and reliability from an audio system is in the design and tuning phase. This is a somewhat complex topic, but consider the following two car guys:

- Car Guy # 1 - adds a turbo, intake, exhaust, hotter ignition, and a generic chip to his vehicle. Bolts all the stuff on as quickly as possible and takes every short cut in the book to get it runnin' by cruisin' time that night. Although the vehicle runs far better than stock, the tune in it is generic. The combo of the hasty install and the generic tune ensures that the full performance of the new parts is not realized. Solution? Crank up the boost! Soon realizes that 15 pounds of boost was too much for the stock bottom end of the motor as he's picking up the "weak parts" he left on the road.

- Car Guy # 2- does a little homework on the front side to ensure that the parts he buys will work well with his motor to begin with - he ends up with a similar combo to Car Guy # 1. This guy spends three weekends on the install, ensuring every bolt is tight, every electrical connection is soldered, and that all the new parts fit as they should. In the coming week, he has an appointment with the local tuner to strap his car on the dyno so that he can 'eek every bit of performance available from the parts combo, as well as tune the vehicle so that the parts combination works safely together. His tuner educates him on how much boost he can run before the bottom end of his motor is in jeopardy as well as how many RPM he can safely spin the motor to. When he leaves, not only does his car run well, but it will run that way for as long as he operates it within the parameters of the parts.

The same adage goes for car audio. Plan, install, and tune. If you intend to bolt a Punch Bass knob under your dash, understand that increasing it to MAX will require your amplifier to produce 18dB more output at 45 HZ. Let's just say that you were playing at an average level of 50 watts RMS with the knob turned down all the way - how much power would that require?

50 watts @ 0 dB boost
100 watts @ 3 dB boost
200 watts @ 6 dB of boost
400 watts @ 9 dB of boost
800 watts @ 12 dB of boost
1600 watts @ 15 dB of boost
3200 watts @ 18 dB of boost

So, let's say that you had a 500 watt RMS amplifier of ours . . . turning the knob past half way up at this volume setting is useless. Now, who could say how loud an average of 50 watts RMS is in YOUR system? Pretty tough . . . but, you should be able to train your ears to hear clipping. A little is OK, but when you continue to turn the volume up and the volume does not increase, the amplifier is driven into HARD clipping.

The clipped part of a sine wave has very little energy that a speaker can convert into acoustical energy. But it DOES contain a bunch of energy that will heat the voice coil - this can be about as much as the amplifiers RMS output! Heat is the enemy of a voice coil, so operating an amplifier into hard clipping for an extended period of time will ensure that you'll have to swap your speakers often. No matter what their RMS rating is, if you make a habit of clipping your amplifier(s) all day long every day, you will have speaker failures.

I hope this helps.
Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing

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#11 User is offline   Bass4Lyfe Icon

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Posted 24 July 2008 - 01:15 PM

i apologize for bumping an old topic,

however, snafu, my understanding is this:

I am getting an RF T1k in about a week here - it's already on the way actually.

I should turn my bass knob ALL THE WAY UP, set the volume at 80%, and use my DMM to set it to about 34 AC Volts, or 11-1200 watts.

Then, if I want less bass, I can turn the knob DOWN but if I want maximum I can turn it back up all the way without damaging any equipmetn?

Thanks for your help on this
~Matthew

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#12 User is online   EricM9104 Icon

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Posted 24 July 2008 - 01:16 PM

RCA Line Level Controller, easier IMO. :p
Vehicle: 1995 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4

Stereo: Alpine CDA-105 w/ 120gb iPod
Mids/highs: Pioneer 6x8s in all 4 doors
Sub amp: RF bd1500 @ 2ohms
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View PostTeam_DC-Derrick, on 19 July 2010 - 12:27 AM, said:

but its a crx, if you cant fart and do a 150 in a crx there is something wrong...
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#13 User is offline   Bass4Lyfe Icon

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Posted 24 July 2008 - 01:21 PM

Hmm i'm not sure what that is emat ... but I bet I'd have to buy it :)

I'm fresh out of a budget - good news though because I got everything ordered I wanted to :)

Now if anyone has input on my question above great!

if nto i'll look into that emat thanks :)
~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm
with Shock and Proximity
(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator
(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0
(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell
(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver
(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device
(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers
(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface
(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers
(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)
(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils
(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz
(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier
(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)
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#14 User is offline   snafu Icon

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Posted 28 July 2008 - 05:14 PM

View PostBass4Lyfe, on Jul 24 2008, 01:15 PM, said:

i apologize for bumping an old topic,

however, snafu, my understanding is this:

I am getting an RF T1k in about a week here - it's already on the way actually.

I should turn my bass knob ALL THE WAY UP, set the volume at 80%, and use my DMM to set it to about 34 AC Volts, or 11-1200 watts.

Then, if I want less bass, I can turn the knob DOWN but if I want maximum I can turn it back up all the way without damaging any equipmetn?

Thanks for your help on this


34 x 34 / 1 ohm = 1156 watts. Although what you outline may be you close, I'd say do the above with the knob all they way down. You want a little "overlap" with a subwoofer amp and some clipping is OK. I really don't prefer this method, but it could be a good start. A test CD, like what we supply with our 3Sixty would be helpful. I'd start with the 40 Hz @ odB track. If that wasn't enough output, I'd move to the 40 Hz @ -5dB track (5dB of overlap). If this was still not enough output, I'd switch to the 40 Hz @ -10dB output (10 dB of overlap).

Good luck!
Tony Candela - SMD Sales & Marketing

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Posted 30 July 2008 - 04:12 PM

just saw this now. thanks snafu! i installed the amp this morning, you can see the 1998 camry build thread if you need more info,

i'll re-tune it tonighit and see if i can't get it working right! with more voltage that'll help also :)
~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm
with Shock and Proximity
(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator
(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0
(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell
(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver
(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device
(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers
(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface
(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers
(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)
(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils
(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz
(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier
(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)
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#16 User is offline   B slaps yo mama Icon

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Posted 30 July 2008 - 04:16 PM

if your refering to steve. he has the rf 3sixty and that does kill the bass completely. thats how he hits people with it so hard sometimes. also they sell a bass knob that hooks up to your rca's that go to your amp. those are nice cause they do the same thing. also work great. forget the brand name but you should be able to buy one for like $20. and another set of rca's.
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Posted 24 June 2009 - 09:26 PM

View Postsnafu, on Jul 28 2008, 06:14 PM, said:

34 x 34 / 1 ohm = 1156 watts. Although what you outline may be you close, I'd say do the above with the knob all they way down. You want a little "overlap" with a subwoofer amp and some clipping is OK. I really don't prefer this method, but it could be a good start. A test CD, like what we supply with our 3Sixty would be helpful. I'd start with the 40 Hz @ odB track. If that wasn't enough output, I'd move to the 40 Hz @ -5dB track (5dB of overlap). If this was still not enough output, I'd switch to the 40 Hz @ -10dB output (10 dB of overlap).

Good luck!


Wow snafu, that is a lot of information for someone like me to handle. I have a 3sixty.1 and I am about to install a hifonics bxi2610d in a couple days. I just want to be able to put my volume up and turn both my knobs all the way up and not clip lol. What can you tell me to do that a ten year old could understand haha.
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Posted 24 June 2009 - 09:40 PM

buy an eq with a bass knob in it serves 2 purposes...
1. an inline RCA bass knob
2. it sounds better



b slaps is right Steve can control how much bass is actually being put out with his "eq knob" from his 3Sixty and then boost with the Rockford bass knob.
I have a 7-band EQ with a bass knob and there is an easy way to tell if you are trying to get too much out of your amp.


turn the bass boost all the way up at your select frequency and have the bass knob on your eq all the way down.
turn the volume up and ease up the bass knob... once you find the spot where it doesn't get any louder is where it is most likely starting to clip or you have reached your maximum.

the gain on my amp is turned all the way down because the eq puts out 7 volts and the RF only really accepts 5 IIRC.
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Posted 24 June 2009 - 09:46 PM

i turned my knob all the way down and radio at full tilt then turned the gain down till i have almost no sub left works good for e
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Posted 24 June 2009 - 09:50 PM

View Postthehoe92, on Jun 24 2009, 10:40 PM, said:

buy an eq with a bass knob in it serves 2 purposes...
1. an inline RCA bass knob
2. it sounds better



b slaps is right Steve can control how much bass is actually being put out with his "eq knob" from his 3Sixty and then boost with the Rockford bass knob.
I have a 7-band EQ with a bass knob and there is an easy way to tell if you are trying to get too much out of your amp.


turn the bass boost all the way up at your select frequency and have the bass knob on your eq all the way down.
turn the volume up and ease up the bass knob... once you find the spot where it doesn't get any louder is where it is most likely starting to clip or you have reached your maximum.

the gain on my amp is turned all the way down because the eq puts out 7 volts and the RF only really accepts 5 IIRC.

Alright Kasey I think I got it. turn it to the freq., bass boost all the way up, put my volume up to what ever I play it at(40/62), slowly turn up my 3sixty knob until I can't hear it get any louder? Then my amp knob will just make it... louder, but not kill my BTL? Did I get all that right? lol @ me
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