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T2k, T3k, T4k Owners power and ground inputs

#1 User is online   may03LT Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:17 PM

Hey I wondering if anyone is using any kind of terminal for the power and ground inputs as opposed to sliding the wire in them. ATM I have the wires slid in them, and they are secure, but I was just wondering what everyone else is doing....damn i hope that made sense lol

tia
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View Postmeade916, on Sep 3 2009, 02:15 PM, said:

Should i drill a hole and shove the wire directly into the acid inside?
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#2 User is offline   gotFI? Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:20 PM

nope, i just slide it right in. ;)
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#3 User is online   pstone11 Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:24 PM

All mine are slid in there - no reason to spend cash on a terminal stud when it works just fine the normal way...
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#4 User is offline   David Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:25 PM

I agree with pat 100% why spend extra cash when not needed.
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View Postandym85, on Aug 24 2009, 02:09 PM, said:

yea...he makes me wanna gouge my eyes out with a spoon....f'in killing me!!


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#5 User is online   00sdime00 Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:30 PM

The ends are tinned and then slid in on mine....I find it gives the set screw a little more to "bite" into

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:30 PM

View Postmay03LT, on Nov 24 2008, 05:17 PM, said:

Hey I wondering if anyone is using any kind of terminal for the power and ground inputs as opposed to sliding the wire in them. ATM I have the wires slid in them, and they are secure, but I was just wondering what everyone else is doing....damn i hope that made sense lol

tia


if your so worried about the wire sliding out. saughter ( sp? ) the wire up and grind it down to fit. alot less cash just a little extra time.
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#7 User is offline   Bass4Lyfe Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:31 PM

I actually have a similar question. When these amps produce 5k (like mine will) I am running 2 positive runs and 2 negative runs from the front of the car (to the rear batteries)

how do I get both wires into the amp when it only has one terminal?

stupid question :)
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#8 User is offline   E a r t h Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:48 PM

Nothing better than direct wire connection imo

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#9 User is offline   Bass4Lyfe Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:50 PM

do you guys see what i'm saying? like if someone said" I have 3 runs to the trunk of positive 1/0" how would you connect that to your amp?

thanks
~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm
with Shock and Proximity
(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator
(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0
(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell
(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver
(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device
(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers
(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface
(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers
(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)
(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils
(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz
(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier
(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)
(1) Stinger Volt Meter
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#10 User is offline   roscoe1129 Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:53 PM

bass4lyfe I would suggest a distro/buss bar set up then where you can take the multiple runs into 1 run
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#11 User is offline   Bass4Lyfe Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:54 PM

you're saying run X amoutn of runs from the batteries (>1) and then to a bussbar, from there only 1 run of 1/0 goes to your amplifier? wouldn't this defeat the purpose of running the multiple runs?

Sorry me a newb :)
~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm
with Shock and Proximity
(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator
(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0
(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell
(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver
(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device
(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers
(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface
(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers
(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)
(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils
(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz
(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier
(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)
(1) Stinger Volt Meter
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#12 User is offline   gotFI? Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:57 PM

View Postroscoe1129, on Nov 24 2008, 04:53 PM, said:

bass4lyfe I would suggest a distro/buss bar set up then where you can take the multiple runs into 1 run

very true, or link all 3 batts together and only have 1 pos going to the amp from your rear batts.
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#13 User is offline   roscoe1129 Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 05:58 PM

Typically the pupose of multiple runs is in the case of rear batteries and your taking only as much current to the rear batteries as your wire will allow. Then you have one run from the rear batteries to the amp.
"In Nomine Patris et Filii et Spiritus Sancti”
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Benz Build Evo Build XXX Burb
DONT BE AFRAID TO USE THE SEARCH BUTTON!!!
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LISTEN TO LIVE STREAMING METAL!!!!!
SMD SUPER BUYER/SELLER
I dont need no stinking refs but if ya ask around Im sure youll get some positive feedback!
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#14 User is offline   wL<3bass Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 06:00 PM

Yeh but I think hes meaning....1/0 isn't good for over 350amps. From rear batteries -> amps.

This post has been edited by wL<3bass: 24 November 2008 - 06:00 PM


Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4
Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, 5000K Hid Low & Fogs
Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & Two T10001bd
Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400
Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 270amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.3v
Enclosure: 8.2 ft³ @ 38Hz 134sq.in. of port (16.4sq.in. per cube)
Headunit: Pioneer DEH-P5000UB w/ 80G iPod
Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)
Subwoofers: 2 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded
Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex
Future Upgrades: Viper Alarm & 24" Rims & Tires...

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View PostColin - 1HVYHTR, on Sep 26 2009, 10:03 PM, said:

Your port was like: "Gimme Yo Sweata'!!! NOM NOM NOM"

View Postczman30, on Jan 27 2010, 04:00 PM, said:

yea but my bro's a networking spaceshilist

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#15 User is offline   team ssc Dan Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 06:01 PM

They use a buss bar!!!!

I will tell you the best way to connect it, listen up this is one, most have not seen.
On the bottom fuse bolt take it out and get a longer one. Hook the second positive up there.

Shhhh, don't be tellin everyone!
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#16 User is offline   Bass4Lyfe Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 06:01 PM

absolutely correct wl<3bass

i mean, what about the stetstom 10ks ... surely 1 run of 1/0 isn't enough for them? or do they have 4/0 or multiple 1/0 terminals?
~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm
with Shock and Proximity
(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator
(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0
(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell
(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver
(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device
(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers
(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface
(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers
(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)
(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils
(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz
(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier
(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)
(1) Stinger Volt Meter
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#17 User is offline   wL<3bass Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 06:04 PM

View PostBass4Lyfe, on Nov 24 2008, 08:01 PM, said:

absolutely correct wl<3bass

i mean, what about the stetstom 10ks ... surely 1 run of 1/0 isn't enough for them? or do they have 4/0 or multiple 1/0 terminals?

Why not just get a short run of 2/0? Two runs of 1/0 to the back and a run of 2/0 from the rear batteries -> amp.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4
Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, 5000K Hid Low & Fogs
Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & Two T10001bd
Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400
Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 270amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.3v
Enclosure: 8.2 ft³ @ 38Hz 134sq.in. of port (16.4sq.in. per cube)
Headunit: Pioneer DEH-P5000UB w/ 80G iPod
Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)
Subwoofers: 2 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded
Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex
Future Upgrades: Viper Alarm & 24" Rims & Tires...

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View PostColin - 1HVYHTR, on Sep 26 2009, 10:03 PM, said:

Your port was like: "Gimme Yo Sweata'!!! NOM NOM NOM"

View Postczman30, on Jan 27 2010, 04:00 PM, said:

yea but my bro's a networking spaceshilist

______________________________
My YouTube Videos
My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build
My "Seamless" Looking Box Build
My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)
My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)
My feedback/references...
0

#18 User is offline   Bass4Lyfe Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 06:07 PM

prob wouldn't fit in the amp (the 1/0 i use barely fits) and shouldn't ALL runs of pwr/ground be EQUAL ino your car? not sure about that one, sorry if i'm mistaken
~Matthew

1998 Toyota Camry XLE V6 3L

(1) ScyTek Astra 4000RS-2W-1 2-Way Remote Start Alarm
with Shock and Proximity
(1) 20% Tint All Around (Gately Audio)

(1) 250 Amperage HO Alternator
(1) Big 3 Done In 1/0
(2) Kinetik HC2400 Power Cell
(1) Alpine IVA-D106 Receiver
(1) Peripheral Video Bypass Device
(4) Alpine SPS-17C2 Speakers
(1) Alpine KCE-422i iPod Control Interface
(4) Sheets Dynamat Extreme; for speakers
(1) 10 Square Feet Hushmat (Trunk & Rear Deck)
(4) DC Audio Level 4 15" D2 Subwoofer w/ Level 5 Coils
(1) Wall Built By David, Tuned to 32 Hz
(1) Rockford Fosgate T40001bd Amplifier
(1) Stinger 1/0 Wiring (2 runs of + 2 runs of -)
(1) Stinger Volt Meter
0

#19 User is offline   98HOEONSIXEZ Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 06:12 PM

surely if the amp is a true 5k it would have 2 +'s and 2 -"s to deal with the current draw it SHOULD be pulling
Check out my 4 18s on 25kw rebuild "marky marks 25kw funky fresh rebuild" here http://www.stevemead...showtopic=54673
you can check out my 25,000 watt tahoe(nothing but pictures) uniterrupted build log here -
http://www.stevemead...showtopic=55302
Check out the youtube videos here http://www.youtube.com/baggedz71
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View Postroscoe1129, on Feb 20 2009, 10:20 AM, said:

Ive said it before and will continue to say it....Fuck the haters, they are all we need to survive!
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#20 User is offline   98HOEONSIXEZ Icon

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 06:14 PM

View PostBass4Lyfe, on Nov 24 2008, 07:07 PM, said:

prob wouldn't fit in the amp (the 1/0 i use barely fits) and shouldn't ALL runs of pwr/ground be EQUAL ino your car? not sure about that one, sorry if i'm mistaken


what if you ran the 00gauge from the rear batteries to the amp and just shave the end down in little increments at a time until it would fit into the amp?
Check out my 4 18s on 25kw rebuild "marky marks 25kw funky fresh rebuild" here http://www.stevemead...showtopic=54673
you can check out my 25,000 watt tahoe(nothing but pictures) uniterrupted build log here -
http://www.stevemead...showtopic=55302
Check out the youtube videos here http://www.youtube.com/baggedz71
Rdaudio
Dcpowerinc.com Alts and bracket
Deka intimidator batteries
Missing link audio -switchable voltage control module 14.8v/15.3v
Custom carputer

View Postroscoe1129, on Feb 20 2009, 10:20 AM, said:

Ive said it before and will continue to say it....Fuck the haters, they are all we need to survive!
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