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Getting it out of storage a few months ago. It sat for 7 year's.

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Wow, that sucker's sure covered in dust

It was so low to the ground that I had to jack the car up and drive the tow dolly under the car. If I didn't the dolly would hit the back bumper. It was a pain in the ass. The fuel pump was dead so I couldn't just start it and drive it home. I towed it from Austin to San Antonio, Texas.

Loud and Clean - 1985 190e 2.3 Audio Show Car - Champagne Dream.

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boomin: Thanks. It's an SQ car but it hit's pretty hard. I just took those older Lanzar 12's out (It had 4 of them) and replaced them with 2 Kicker CompVR DVC's. I just need more power for them now. I'm thinking of putting a JL 450/4 & a JL 500/1 in. I need to measure and see if they would both fit in the existing tray/rack. I really want some older Orion HCCA's. Like 2 225's for the mid's/high's and a 250 or 275 for the subs. I want to keep the old school flavor but the install isn't in the great shape it was in 10 year's ago. The picture's don't show it but it need's some work.

You can run these at half ohm and it's stable!

Orion HCCA 225 (One on the front, one on the rear)

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Orion HCCA 250 (Run on the sub's)

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Loud and Clean - 1985 190e 2.3 Audio Show Car - Champagne Dream.

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Installed my usb hub in the console wired 5 volt hot from the switch. This is to charge my phone, ipod, gps.. etc.. Work's very well. I also moved the Stinger voltmeter. I haven't mounted it yet. I was thinking of using Velcro or double sided tape.

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:)

Loud and Clean - 1985 190e 2.3 Audio Show Car - Champagne Dream.

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The single-reflex band pass enclosure is basically a combination of a sealed and vented enclosure. These can be fairly small enclosures, though larger than a sealed enclosure. They offer great power handling, good low frequency response, but are not as efficient as vented enclosures (top of this page), and are more complex to build. However, when built correctly, these make excellent enclosures and are often used by competitors. This is often referred to as a fifth order enclosure, but it's not. The addition of a crossover makes it a fifth order system.

Before: (With 4 Lanzar DVC 4 Ohm 12's)

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Now: (With 2 Kicker CompVR DVC 2 Ohm 12's)

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Loud and Clean - 1985 190e 2.3 Audio Show Car - Champagne Dream.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just now finished this up. I installed the usb port last week but didn't like having a 4 foot iPod cable where a 3 inch cable could be used. So I took this iPod charger apart and wired it in. Zip tied it nice and neat to the audio plug and wired it up. This time I redid some of the wiring because you can only put so much on a fused, keyed circuit. This way the power come's from the battery and the switch simply kick's the relay on and power's everything up. I do not use the remote out on the head unit because I don't want it having to power anything. I just use the circuit board's and wire them up. I should really cover all of the wiring with black electrical tape but it's all plastic and carpet where it's at under the console so it's ok. Besides, I dislike using tape. Make's it look unprofessional. I just zip tie the hell out of it.

This relay power's all of the remote kick-on for the following:

  • Trunk Relay (There's a relay in the trunk for everything in it)
    • PG Frank Amp'n Stein Amplifier
    • PG EQ-215x
    • PG PLD-1 Line Driver

    [*]USB Hub

    [*]iPod charger

    [*]Stinger voltmeter

    [*]...enough to require the use of a relay. Basically the entire car's system & accessories.

All wired up and tied up, time to hide it.

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All finished.

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There's one thing about me some of you might notice, I hate seeing wire's! I hide everything! There's 2 wire's inside of that iPod cord. Most people would just tie them together and be finished with it. I ran the audio cord through the power cord's center so you only see 1 cable, when there's 2 cable's.

Learn how to wire relay's to do a number of cool thing's!

Loud and Clean - 1985 190e 2.3 Audio Show Car - Champagne Dream.

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