NDMstang65

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Specs the exact same (within >1%), we went to the pie shape magnets because the single 285mm slug was too hard to manufacture without flaws. 12's and 15's need those black spacers, 18's do not. (12 needs 2 layers, 15 needs 1 layer)

No..web guy didn't change it, they are all 3" coils. They are also all rated at 1500 watts.

Nothing at all wrong with the SSD's...if you are working on a more limited budget go with them. You do not have to sink as much money in electrical upgrades.

I've got a magnaflow on my Heep. Has a low tone to it..I cut it off infront of the axle and welded the muffler on it though. I don't remember what series I picked up..it's just whatever they had at oriley's..

So a level 3 is cheaper then 200 bucks..uses American forged steel with American soft parts..and is machined in house..and offers the same cooling technology that the BTL does?

Uh....SSD...

If it has a sticker on the back of it..it's a new motor.

12-16 square inches of port per cubic foot of volume and tune 30-33Hz.

Maybe...read the RMS values that are in the t/s parameters on the speakers themselves? They might be there for a reason. With 2kw, I would suggest a BL with full cooling.

Fs is simply the resonance of the parts in a free air environment, in all honesty it is pretty much a worthless parameter. It does not indicate the frequency response of a sub (lower Fs is not going to automatically "hit lower" contrary to popular belief) and Higher Fs does not mean that a sub will not "hit the low notes". A speaker simply does what you tell it to do in the environment that you put it in. Putting a High Fs subwoofer in a box tuned to 33Hz does not mean it is not going to play the frequency range from the Fs to tuning..and totally miss it. That is not how it works and is totally urban myth. It will do whatever you tell it to do, including destroy itself. Simply because it does not know any better. Qts is the "overall Q" of the speaker, and is something that dictates motor force and what kind of enclosure a speaker should be in. Low Qts woofers (say .35 and down) should be in a ported alignment only. Mid Qts woofers (say .36 to . 45 or so) works well in a sealed or ported alignment. High Qts woofers (say .46 and higher arbitrarily) works best in a sealed alignment. Again, these figures are arbitrary and what I feel/think is 'optimal' for a musical scenario and daily driving. This is not a law, it is simply what I think and is my opinion. However, you can stick a high qts woofer in a ported enclosure..and get one heck of a peak out of it...and make it work great for SPL . Qts is indicative of motor force as well. (Bl) Lower Qts will allow more motor force, Higher QTS will not allow it. Hope this helps.

What do you mean by "its gotta be something else?" A dual 2ohm motor is the universal gap, the dual 1ohm coil will easily fit in it..as the outer diameter is smaller.