missinglink

Depends on what type of car. GM would be fine if older than 2005. Dodge ect... the PCM controls the alt so you could risk blowing out the PCM with the added load or get charging light. MLA

What size battery / batteries you looking for? Whats power demand?

Sounds like to much demand for your alt and not enough storage to help cushion the draw If your jumping up like that from stock voltage at start up chances are: 1)the batt's going bad and loosing and/or not holding charge. 2)your alt my be going out 3)To much demand and alt is just can't keep up. To rule out the battery 1st check its (resting voltage) use a volt meter first thing in the morning before you ever start your car (do not charge battery over night then test) Simple #'s are 12v dead , 12.5 55%full , 13v full , if your pumping 14.5 to 15 volts into your battery it should be (resting) a solid 12.9+ Your car will try and compensate for a low battery by raising voltage at start. It drops lower with lights on at night just because the demand is greater on the alt and prolly just can't keep up. Hope this helps shed some light on things MLA

Did you hit them up for trouble shooting cause until they tell you what they recommend as a solution all our advise give companies a reason to say its not their problem cause you did it wrong. Make sure they know it does not work right before telling them what you tried. This was a Lesson learned ounce before. MLA

Some one should have a Wii for sale or trade , if so let me know asap before I buy a new one for x-mas. MLA

Looking for a wii console in good condition for my daughter. woods 2010 with motion plus may get charger option points!!! Willing to trade a custom MLA module per your vehicle fit. PM me or text info inquiries to 618-920-2629 MLA

Figured I sould chime in to clear up some points of interest. I did have two DC power 240 sp alts in the hummer and ran 3 MA audio 10k amps no problem. About a month ago I added the 6 - zuki audio amps I had ran when we showed at SEMA 07. I now have 3 MA audio 10k's on 3 subs and 6 zuki amps strapped 2 per sub. So I have doubled my power to around 5000watts per sub and let a friend use 1 dc power alt over a month ago. My hummer hasn't moved in over a month and a half since Im waiting on Rob over at DC to get me my alts for the quad bracket I have ready to go. I had to put the car back together just to demo it for them so it wasn't really demo ready. As for shit moving you really have to look at the canvas. Its alot stronger body wise than other vehicles to start , not to mention the 2" molded MDF roof with 4 layers of second skin SD. Getting 4 alts will make things stable again and make a difference for sure, things just take time. Thanks for stopping by guys, Chris @ MLA

As has already been said, I would NOT go after that alternator unless I had a brand new DC Power unit to replace it with while it was apart. Too many labor hours to do anything else. Just FYI, here are the steps: Disconnect the battery. Remove the belt. Remove the powersteering hose bracket from the alternator bolt. Remove the alternator bolt. Remove the right front wheel & tire. Remove the inner fender. Remove the alternator splash shield. Remove the torque convertor inspection cover. Install the flywheel holding tool (P/N 303-544). You must remove the crankshaft pulley & bolt. Caution! the pulley is moulded composite, and the bolt is part of it. The bolt is Left-Hand thread. Be careful removing this assembly, it is not cheap. Disconnect & remove the crankshaft sensor & oxygen sensor to make room. You can now lower the alternator to disconnect the B+ & regulator wires. The re-install is simple - just do everything above in reverse... LOL An all day job for the average DIY mechanic, the holding tool should be available at AutoZone or similar stores as a loan tool. Plan ahead, and order an HO alternator from Robbie @ DC Power. Module installs can be done at the fuse block in this car, but you need to tell us so we can do a special instruction sheet. 'Link

Prompt and courteous buyer. No worries here!!!!! MLA

As for free: We gave you your quad (free) a dual for $100 (1/2off) and when you asked about a GM/Ford we built it a shipped it to you free as well thats a $250 unit alone. So free? We paid dues to be here nothing was for free. And we have gave thanks to your forum for helping in the growth of MLA on many occasions. This matter is between us! However I talk to Nick and Scott almost on a daily basis so I highly value their opinions. I was so shocked at how you reacted about the whole module deal that I drove down to talk to Scott in person and read him every text you sent me about it just in case I was in the wrong. I also read both sides to nick for his opinion so he does know the whole story (which the whole 17 text conversation is still in my phone and at no point did I tell you "SNOOZE YOU LOSE"). I am not the type of person to intentionally hurt or betray anyone and this is how I run MLA. I sent you a text 2 1/2 weeks ago to inform you your module was done, than I called you , straight to voice mail, about 30min later I sent another text telling you the module was done to give me a call. Your reply was , "I'm playing COD 4 I'll call you when I have time". Now , (we do not stock quad modules and they take 6 days to build) I had a guy call for a quad module he needed overnighted for a show in 3 days and the only one I had on hand was the quad we built for you. I never heard from you on it so I figured I could help him out for a show and build another one when you were ready. No back stabbing intended just customer service for a guy in need. You know I'm all about our customer service first hand!!! Remember when you blew up all 4 alts demoing at chickens and you called me at 11pm on a Saturday night and we talked for like 45 min while you drove home. Thats the kind of guy I am you were upset about the alts and I answered my phone like I do for all customers!!! You were able to reuse the module after all 4 alts went out no problem. We give support to all on your forum even if they do not need a module , but to say our motto is "snooze you lose" is wrong. We offered to build you a quad mack daddy module with alt sensing and the new AC adapter so you could be the big dog and your reply was "no thanks I'll splice" so I left it at that! No worries , just there are two sides to every story this is just my side and I apologized and it was done for me. We do appreciate this forum ,and are glad to help and inform people with their questions and/or issues. We have gave solid advice and a top notch products to your members and will in the future as well. Thanks, Chris@ MLA

The belt length would depend on which dual alternator setup you have... Ohio Generator? Missing Link Audio (MLA) DC Power? There are other makes as well. You should contact the bracket manufacturer for belt details. The second issue with GM vehicles with PCM alternator control is the connection of multiple alternators. We have many late model GM's running multiple alternators at 15 volts with no problems. If you setup will not charge, or you have warning light problems / codes - you will need an MLA module. 'Link

Well, there is your answer. The typical "300 amp" alternator has little to no output at idle. When you put the vehicle in gear, the engine speed drops - and the alternator stops putting out power. Check your tach, I think you may see a higher than normal idle speed (in neutral) too - the PCM will pull idle speed up in extreme cases to compensate for poor alternator output. But it has to drop that speed in gear - or you will be doing 20 mph idling & overheating the transmission... The best answer for daily drivers & high power needs is a dual alternator setup. 'Link

Does the voltage come back up when you drive the vehicle? or does it stay at 11 volts(!) while driving? 'Link

Why lose what extra your factory alt can give. Tie the system together and it will be fine plus give you a little more power to things overall. MLA