bleedingblue

What about the SKar skv2-3500.1D. In the dyno runs on youtube they seem to put out their rated power and don't break the bank. Love to know how many amps they pull @ 1ohm.

I talked to sundown and they recommended doing 4-8's and a scv2000d. I'm just worried about the lows out of some 8's. I've searched all over the net and people say the SA's are pretty good sealed and others say they are horrible. Just don't know who to believe. It's not like I can just go to the neighborhood store and start listening to different subs as their are none around here.

That does look pretty darn sweet. I'd have to mount some grills over them to keep from poking the cone with a foot. Not found of the wire though. Any reason why they did not run the amps behind the rear seat instead of under the front seats? My hump in the floor is not as tall as that one is.

My truck is a diesel and has 2 batteries anyways. I could replace the alternator with a bigger one. Do people run capacitors any more? I used to have a couple of megatrons in my car I had and a 5 farad capacitor with the bandpass. Car would still almost quit going down the road when I was running around 3000 watts. Didn't really hit any harder though when I just ran the subs off one amp at 1200. With the hump I have in the floor I don't know if I can run 3 10's. It is not as pronounced as other guys is but it does stick up around an inch high and is about 12" across. I'm still confused on why systems these days require so much power to get loud. Heard some kids cars today that had a pair of 12's with 2k going to them and it was no louder than the old lanzar 12's with 200 going to them that I used to run in a '87 mustang. I just took it as their are no professionals in the area as we are kinda remote to any big stereo spots. I live in far west ky. My 15's in the bandpass with just 1200 going to them would flex the windshield and break my mirrors all the time and I only had the gains about half way. I had an old installer build that box for me with me helping out.

From a rough standpoint I think I have 2.3 cu ft of space under my seat without box materiel taking up space. 3.2 cu ft If I raise the seats 2" in height. 3.7 cu ft If I raise the seats 3" up with spacers. I have some space with some sealed designs but how much do I need if I would go with ported SA12's and hit low like I want. They say 1.7 cu ft but that does not include the port. Add that in and the box just keeps growing in size. Could I just do a down firing 15" on one side of the cab sealed?? The sa15 requires 2.5 cuft.

Used a 4 channel opti drive amp rated 100x4 going to 2-6.5" and a set of tweeters up front and a set of coaxial 6.x8's in the rear. The subs were 2-15" kicker cvr's in a bandpass being driven by around 1200 watts. I couldn't hear the mids and highs hardly at all if I cranked down on it. The rears were run off the rear 2 channels of the 4 channel amp. The front 4 speakers were run off the front 2 channels. They had their own crossover mounted where a kick panel would be. What I am saying about the box is that typically you need a pretty good size box to hit lows in a ported box? Those 15's in a bandpass was a big box. The ported subs from 25 years ago where in a box that was 3.5 cuft each. Friends who had some 15's which hit low took up the whole trunk of their cutlass. They generally were some series 1 punch 15's being driven by a punch 150. My brother had 4-12" JBL GTI subs that handled a 1000 watts rms from the early 90's. He had a opti drive amp on them and the brute force on his mids and highs. Those subs hit extremely low but the box took up every bit of space in the thunderbird supercoup that he had. Had a 12" JBL GTI with a linear power 5002 bridged mono on it. Did not hit very low in the ported box but could thump. Took up around 3 cu ft of space. I've never heard a "loud system" before like you see in the videos. Loudest I heard was a system my friend did as he had his own store back then. Had 4-15" kickers in a diamond with the ports coming out right close to your head powered by a PPI pro mos 2300. Had to replace windshield a few times and his door seals would blow out if you had the windows up. It just had around 1200 watts though nothing like the 30,000 watts I read about. I have sat in trucks that had 12-12's and never was impressed at all, even though they claimed 156 db. I want it to hit and don't really care about having 20,000 watts. I dont' really understand why these systems today need that many watts. If I had trouble breathing on 1200 watts I should meet my maker on 30,000.

56" wide Front 8" tall Back 5" tall Hump 1" tall x 12" wide in the middle Depth would be 16" Those are stock specs i could fab some spacers to add more height. Most guys put the subs down firing because of the hump. I would have to learn how to fiberglass around the hump to maxumize space. I was thinking by how much work it would be to make a box it would be easier and probably cheaper to just buy a prefab. I am sure it would not be more rewarding. I have not built a speaker box in almost 20 years. Do those 10's go low? I still have a phoenix gold bass cube from back in the day i could run and crank it up on low bass.. As far as my mids go i have a set of 6.5 factory cut outs in the doors, some tweeter pods on the pillars and in tbe back doors i have another 6.5 cutout. Years ago i had a similiar set up but i had 6x8 coaxials in the rear deck instead of the doors in the car i had. Had a 4 channel opti drive amp on them 4x 100. Couldnt hear the mids and highs too good at all when i decided to crank up those 2 15's in the bandpass. If my figuring is right the rear speakers got 100 watts each and the components got 50 each since they were sharing power from the crossover.

I went with 3 -3" ports for my pair of SA 8s in a 1.5cuft box. Worked well Is that 1.5cuft with the ports or without? How long were the ports? Were they in the box or sticking out?

In my 2011 crew cab silverado. Will be an under the rear seat box. Most all prefab boxes I have seen only has 2cu ft of space. My listening habits are mostly rap and I like some boom and a bit of a bass head. I was going to go with 4-8's in a ported box but do not think it would be the right enclosure for 4-SA8's http://www.soundoffaudio.com/ported-quad-8-for-2007-2013-chevy-silverado-crew/ The problem is that the tuned hertz is 38. I'm really wanting something to play lower. I used to run nothing but sealed subs back in the late 80's and 90's and then had a bandpass with 2-15" kickers in my daily driver for about 12 years. I haven't been in the game for several years and all these new brands is making my head spin. More or less the best reviews I have found is the sundown line. Here is a site where he has several boxes for sale. http://www.soundoffaudio.com/2007-2013-silverado-crew-cab/ I could do a box for 4-10's in a sealed enclosure If I raise my rear seat up on spacers around 3". It seems with the ported boxes they run too big and with the sealed I could run in a small space and more subs. SA10's require .5 cuft per sub sealed. Years ago had 2 crunch 15's in a ported box an installer built. After going through 6 subs in a couple of days he plugged the port holes up and no more blown subs. I don't want blown subs because the sub is going into free air because I like low bass. As of right now I have nothing bought and was told their is going to be some nice buys on black friday. I would like to get everything planned out before I start spending money. Need everything from a double din head unit to wiring. Prob run components up front and some coaxials in the rear doors. Should I run a 6 channel amp on those? I'd say I would at least need a 100 watts going to each mid/high. Prob run a SAE2000 on the subs if I go with 4-8's. Of course I could always go cheap and get one of those Cab1600.1 Their are not many shops that I know of around these parts that do car stereo's. Some in St. Louis, Nashville or Memphis but they are several hours away.