thacarter546

Coming from a guy with an s10 that is going to be cramped unless its a crew cab, but I honestly like your second plan much better and think it sounds a little more solid. I think you may be a little happier running 4 12"s. I run a single 15" tc3000 in 3.5 cubes with cavalier seats, and I cant lean them back very far, and if you have a girl in the car it sucks. But 2kw is a decent starting point and much easier to support.

Yes you do. It will be fine for right now, but you will want to replace your stock battery with another kinetik. Im not a big fan of mixing brand on sealed batteries, even though supposedly it can be done. My reasoning, each brand will float at a slightly different voltage, and once you turn the car off if there isnt and isolator the lower voltage batt will fight the higher one, and it can cause your batts to have a shorter lifespan. As for running a regular non deep cycle flooded cell I have never had any luck with it in car audio. Ended up ruining one before I switched brands, and I can honestly say I will never run a flooded cell battery again.

Ohh one other thing, I know kicker says that solo x will handle 5kw, but it wont! 3kw is pretty much pushing its limits. Unless you wanna change spairs all the time.

Haha much more reasonable response than I expected. :-) What car is this going in? You would be surprised at how you can fit a second alt in. I have seen a bagged s10 with a 4.3 running quad alts with factory ac and heat. If you are familiar with the truck you would knowho tight of a fit that is. For batteries as big as you can fit physically. I run odyssey, and they are typically my first reccomendation as far as battery brands go. Although I would not steer you away from DEKA, powermaster, kinetik, or stinger. All of which are good. For odyssey I would say at least three pc1700s. Preferably three 2250s or 2150s. I dont notice much of a difference between the two other than a fairly large price jump, and for that reason I tend to prefer the 2150s. I bought about 10 odysseys a while back, and got a contractors discount, so they are all I buy now, because they are what I get the best deal on. For kinetik probably a hc1800 and two 2400s preferably three 2400s if you can fit em. As for wire I cant think of any car audio related wire that is bigger than the RF 2/0 wire (I hate RF wire with a passion). I highly reccomend welding cable. It is flexible and very affordable for the sizes you can get it in. :pA" target="_blank">https://weldingsupply.securesites.com/cgi-b...EF:OR:terms::pA</a> Plus you can usually get a custom logo printed on it, and it has TWO layers of shielding instead of one. EDIT: link doesnt quite work. Click on cables/lugs to your left. You are still talking money. 4/0 Is 4.59 a foot if you order 50+ feet and you will probably want at least a 50 foot spool. Lugs for this large of a wire are 2 bucks a pop. Make sure you buy tinned or gold plated connectors. The copper ones corrode in about a month. As for your alt. A 300 amp alt would not be a bad investment, but it more than likely will not put out more power than your stock alt at idle. So you will see big drops if you play at idle and trust me this really really sucks. I know I talk alot, but I dunno how to condense it any better. Ive said it before and Ill say it again. Electrical is the one place you cannot skimp on.

I have no idea how much experience you have, but if this is your first system, I would choose a slightly more manageable amount of power. You can still run a kicker solox 18 off 1kw. Trust me you CANNOT blow a sub by underpowering it if you set the gains correctly (using an o-scope). Purchase an amp that can be strapped later on down the line when you can afford a more powerful electrical. Start sourcing where you are going to buy everything. Go to your local alternator shop(there is one in about every city) ask them how much they would charge to rewind your alternator to a 200 amp or if its possible, ask them if they can fab you up a dual alt bracket, and price that all out. I think you would be safe buying a spool of 4/0 welding cable and wire lugs for it if this is your ultimate goal. Go to a car audio shop or batteries plus type shop and start pricing batteries If you are buying multiple most shops will give you a discount. Your talking a good chunk of change. 3kw + just getting into car audio is a recipe for disaster.

Big 3, 200+ amp alt. 200 really isnt enough for 3kw + you are probably going to have to charge your batteries everyday if you use this as a daily driver. Preferably a dual 200s would do nice. I Like to go by the rule 1 big battery for every 1 kw your running, although this is just me. I think you can do much better than optima for the price (Optima has a relatively high failure rate compared to its competitors DEKA, Odyssey, kinetik, Powermaster). DEKA Intimidators will kill that optima in price-performance ratio. As for wire a single run of 4/0 for power and one for ground would do or several runs of 1/0 to the rear would be nice. DO NOT SKIMP ON YOUR ELECTRICAL. It will bite you in the ass. If you skimp on your electrical it will give you all kinds of problems later on. If you are really planning on building a 3kw+ vehicle expect to shell out quite a bt of green on your electrical. Wiring is going to be 200ish if you use welding cable. Batteries are gonna be 2-300ish a pop new and your gonna want 3-4 so 900-1200 on batteries, 5-600 on a good alt, or you could have a dual alt bracket built depending on car and do dual rebuilt alts should run you about the same and will put out more at idle. so expect to spend 1500sh on your electrical. Another thing worth noting. If you plan on using a gel cell/agm battery with a standard lead acid battery you are going to want to use an isolator between the two, and this will drop your overall voltage down 0.7 volts. The reason being the lead acid(standard car battery) will sit at a lower voltage than the sealed battery and when you shut the car off, the standard car battery will draw from the sealed. The two batteries will also charge unevenly which can also lead to a shortened lif for your batteries. You are much better off running all sealed batteries. Your not gonna hear those 6x9s at all if this is built properly, so I wouldnt even bother. Start looking into how to fiberglass. You are probably going to want multiple sets of components in your front doors if this is going to be used for music. But that is a whole nother thread. This is just my advice. Others may say you can get away with less, and you MAY be able just to squeeze by, but you more than likely wont be happy. Your gonna want your electrical to sit at around 13 volts for everything to function normally. When your voltage starts dipping below 12 volts you are running off of your batteries, and your gonna want to start using a charger at night to keep them maintained, and this also limits your play time, because I am sure you would like to be able to start your car after school, or when you stop to get a burger. Trust me you look like a dumbass when you have to get jumped by a cavalier because your system drained your batts, been there done that. Never again.

I think youd be surprised how loud a nice large format tweeter can get and if properly aimed and adjusted it will sound 1000x better than bullets or pro audio tweets. These are what I am running on a college budget with infinity kappa mids (from a 60.9cs tweets didnt even make it a week! Mids are super beefy, around 5 pounds a piece for a 6.5 so I am still running them oh well live and learn) http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=8500 Sound amazing. They are getting around 65-70 watts a piece and are loud and clean. Best 75 bucks Ive ever spent on highs. Ohh and if you go with these keep in mind you are conna have to cut a good 5" hole wherever you mount them. They are massive.

Do you have room for a larger format tweeter? If you are trying to stay around 75 I have these and they are awesome for the money. http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...roducts_id=8500 Mine are crossed over fairly low too. I couldnt be happier with them. of course there are better out there, but for 75 bucks shipped I am extremely happy. These actually replaced a set of Infinity Kappa tweets. The kappas look nice in pictures, but in person they are light and cheap. The mounts for them suck! and the dont handle any power what-so-ever.

Super tweeter is usually a tweeter used only for super high notes and is crossed over above the tweeter. So something like 15khz and up. Is this what you are looking for? Wiki page to back me up http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Super_Tweeter If by super tweeter you meant bullet, or pro audio tweeter, then the eminence APT-80 is pretty nice. Selenium has a similiar offering thats a few bucks cheaper. Personally I run Peerless textile domes and coundnt be happier.

The midbass is okay. The tweeters really shine in this set. I just installed a pair of the polk db1001 tweeters in my dads aveo last night and i am very happy with the results. They do have a very large footprint for a 1" tweeter.

If they dont have a crossover with them go to best buy and buy a 4800hz bass blocker. Wire it in parallel with the component set. DO NOT hook it up to the tweeter output you will change the crossover pt and it will cause you problems. You could buy the four channel amp and run the tweeters off two channels and the components off two channels if you prefer.

Lol not a fan of the big girls. The only place fat belongs on a woman is in the ass region.

I had my local mechanic take out the airbag for me cuz i dont like the possibility of having an airbag blow up in my face! They inspect it every year. They did break 70 dollars worth of trim when they did so, but i didnt complain, because i prefer to be able to get inspected. I have had my walnut wood wheel for around a year now with no problems. It makes a huge difference in the way your car/truck handles so pick out a wheel thats quality and comfortablewhen you get it, because the difference between wheels is big!

What about the kicker 200.4 or one of the power acoustik gothic series which are pretty good for the price.

it honestly looks like your gonna give up a few features in order to go to the double din units. personally id find a nice deck that has the features you want and either live with a pocket, or toss in a nice EQ or audiocontrol epic 160, or a monitor to fill in the void.