acidikbass20

Interesting, definitely considering seleniums for the doors in mine now.

Twisted, would you run selenium over more known car audio stuff?

Now what would the different of pro audio speakers to mobile audio speakers be? I have seen tons of builds with seleniums and pyles in the doors, but for daily driving, why pay so much more for CDT or Infinity or something if Selenium works just the same?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AID-200-142/

Hey guys, I have an 06 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT, 3.5l engine, and I was looking at either buying or building a short ram intake. Thought about cold air, but don't want to go outside the engine if I don't have to. Would like the power at low RPM's, not so much higher. Here is what I am working with. I can put up more pictures of anything you guys want! This is what I think it would be like if I did short ram, correct if I am wrong! What do you guys think? Definitely open to opinions and learning! Thanks! -Steve

I would be in for this! Excited to see when this is done!

I have a build on some other sites, haven't put one up here. Will if you guys want.

Definitely tuned in for that. Woofer is the team Crossfire XS v2.

Thanks for all the input so far, anyone else?

Either 1 or 2.

Alright, so I am throwing back and forth the idea of the build on my Malibu. It's a daily rider that will compete in SSNW. I am throwing back some ideas and have heard from each side, but I can get a larger group of ideas online then I can talking to individual people. This would be a place for some useful information to others as well. There are my 2 areas of thought. I am doing 2 runs of 4/0 wire, and have these 2 possibilities. Will be running a Sundown SAZ-4500 on a single 15", 2 d3100s in the rear, with a DC270xp alternator up front. 1. Run one wire hot (positive) and one ground (negative). I always thought that this would be the proper way to go. Make a complete circuit (modern theory of current flow) of alternator to front battery, through wire to back battery, into the amplifier, into the subwoofer, back to the amplifier, back to the back battery, through the wire to the front battery, and to ground. I never really thought of option 2 seriously until it was brought to my attention today. 2. Run both wires hot (positive) and ground (negative) one in the front and one in the back, using the cars frame to proved a closed circuit. This makes more current flow possible, and does not use the wire as a source of power if the car is off. This provides more power when the car is on and the alternator is running, but less when it is off. Since I would be competing with the car on and obviously driving with it on, this is now also an option. For everyone popping in an opinion, thank you for the advise and experience. Please provide explanation behind your opinion, that's where my decision is based. Thanks guys. I will throw up a poll here too. -Steve

any ideas? new springs? shock? help?

If you have seen my build log, I have added about 500 pounds of wood to the back of my car, not including woofers and batteries and such. I am looking to upgrade the suspension in the back of my 96 Honda Accord. I'm not sure I want bags, but air shocks or just more heavy duty shocks/springs. I contacted autozone and they said they don't make air shocks for my car. ( i know they are not the most reliable, but i had to try ) Any idea/help on how I would go about updating the suspension in the back? Thanks! -Steve

updates? I would love to see how you finish this trunk. I am actually using a lot of this build as a model for mine. Should be fun, ill have it up on here!

jacob, are you doing tradeins? or is that coming back next year?