germanyt

Here's a couple drawings I just did. Any thoughts?

Sorry, no body or suspension mods on this one. It already sits real nice, has stock 17 inch alloys, and it's 4 wheel drive so no lowering. I think I'm gonna try the stock alt. I've been reading up on alts and think that I will stray from EA. Maybe Mean Green or Irragi if I decide I need one. I recently read an interesting report on capacitors and think I might put one on each amp. Now before anyone says anything about it, I'm a big non believer in caps too. But I figured it would'n't hurt and at least I'll have a volt meter hooked up to each amp. If it does do something, then yay!!! If not, no biggie. After that doesn't work I'll get a new alt.

Hmmm.. someone on another forum told me 290 for a 250 amp 14.6 volt EA alt. I guess I'll just call today. I might try and use my stock alt. A guy on ICIXSound was running 6 NINe.1s as opposed to my 4. He had a battery on each sub and what he called "strategically placed grounds. He used his stock Ford Focus SVT hatch alt and said he was getting less than 1 volt drop. Think he was sitting at just under 13 with the load on it. NINe.1s are rated at 12.5 volts.

Ok, I just threw a bunch of numbers together and came up with what I think is a very accurate price. Since I already have the amps they are not included in this. For everything; BTLs, batteries, wiring, ring terminals, battery terminals, h/u, front stage amps, CDT comps, MDF, suede for box, and everything else all the way down to the can of black spray paint for the inside of the port will cost $4596.75. The amps are 1400 so that is a grand total $5996.75. It's a little more than I originally figured but hey, the more the merrier (spelling) right?

Anyone know how much an excessive amperage 14.6 volt, 300 amp alt will run me. I have their phone number but won't be able to call them til tomorrow.

I'm done with the Grand Prix. I'm selling the SXs to a friend and buying two more eD nine.1s, 3 more yellow tops and pushing two Fi BTL 15s. 8 cubes net @ 35 Hz. Subs up, port back wrapped in graphite micro suede. This is my new vehicle. I got it for 15000. http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?&def...&ref=srl#vdptop

I have to admit I've done some stupid stuff financially in the name of car audio. My first system in this car was when I first started my current job. I took out a 600 dollar loan and thought that it was soooo much money. I got a couple Audiobahn 12s and an SPL Dynamics amp and I was beatin (I thought I was). I blew one of the 12s and scrapped the whole thing for a Koiiler amp and two Infinity Perfect 12 for 300 bucks. Koiiler was like 6 years old and finally gave out on me so I stopped at B/B and picked up a RF amp for like 400 bucks. Was convinced by the salesman that I needed a cap too so of course I got that. I found a deal on two RF P312D4s so I got them and hund on to the infinitys til I got a PPI PCX 2400 amp for 800 bucks brand new. Anyway, it continued on like that until I finally ended up with the setup I have now and I'm soon to drop another 2000 on Fi BTL 15s to replace my SXs and two more amps. Yeah for spending too much money.

Absoulutely. But I wonder, does adding the extra mag and xmax coil change the mechanical limits of the driver or just the thermal. What I mean is, adding the extra slug and coil sounds all well and good for being able to give the driver more power for burping at say 60 Hz, but in a D/D setup, is putting a thousand or so more watt power handling and still playing in the low 30Hz area will I reach the mech limits easier and risk desrtoying the driver.

So how bout two BTL 15s with the thrid magnet and all the cooling extras with 3000 rms on each in 8 cubes @ 32 hz. Sound like a plan?

I understood the BTL to be a little more SQ oriented than the MT. Am I wrong? And what is the difference with the third magnet? How does this affect performance?

I have not yet but intend to. I'd like to get into something more like bass race rather than db drag. I'm not really set up for burps. The box is tuned to 32 Hz which works great for music. Resonating freq is somewhere in the high 50s to 60s i think. This is a d/d so I didn't want to drive around with a fart box for a substage. I probably won't due as well as I hope in bass race because 32 is still really low tuning but as long as I have fun. And who knows, maybe ill win a trophy or two.

I know how to tune a box. The original poster wanted to know how much port area he needs to get the most SPL. To get the absolute most out of the setup would require quite a bit of testing and tuning. It's easy to pick a number for your port area and then lengthen it to get desired tuning. But figuing out what size port will yield desired port velocity resulting in the highest SPL that can be obtained by one particular enclosure is much more difficult. And using the car stero website for nominal port area will not give you the number you need because it is vehicle dependant. Not driver and volume dependant.

This is my install. Just did it a few weeks ago. Still not finished but I got tired of fucking sanding and just hooked everything up. Scroll down past the first post and you'll find the pics. http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php?t=29551

I'd like to see some pics of the amps and subs. 4 XX Collosus amps is pretty awesome. Where would you put those in that car. Those amps arent exactly small.

First off I am not a noobie. I have 2 RE SX 15s and that much port area is pretty ungodly for them. I have 114 right now and it's a little on the large side. To the original poster, how is this going to be installed in the vehicle? Most of the time the port area has very little to do with the type of woofer but what type of vehicle it's going in. Just using the xmax of the woofer and the size of the box will not guarantee optimal port velocity or appropriate back wave projection. Like I said, to get this perfect takes a lot of calculations and testing. But hey, I didn't do the testing in my car. I emailed Pete Kuliki for advice.