audio1der

I love my Japanese car, but W tha F?????????????????????

Well, you can never have too much power and if you're going to upgrade subs at some point, get the 1200. It's an awesome amp for the money. I used mine with a 500w RF P3 12" and that held up for months of abuse until I just wanted more lol. Just keep an eye on the gain and watch for clipping and you'll be fine. My $.02

Ported FTMFW (I tried sealed once, went ported and have never looked back)

I've always thought equal pathlengths were the way to go and in a car, that typically means kickpanels. But it seems image/soundstage height might be even more difficult to overcome; how do you find the balance? I see a lot of you guys run tweets and/or small mids in the a-pillars but those are not nearly as equidistant as in the kicks. Just throwing ideas around to help my SQ clarity.

I googled "DIY flare port" a few weeks ago and found your vid; it inspired me to make my own 4" flared port. I found some thin-wall PVC used for drainage applications and it was MUCH easier to flare than regular PVC.

No knock on XS but I'll tell ya- I'm really happy with my Canadian Tire (Pep Boy equivalent) cheapie. It even has a quick-disconnect pigtail along with a blank/cover to avoid shorts, so I can leave it attached to the terminals. Works like a champ, gives me lots of info. Just food for thought.

What does it have to do with the DD-1? Are you saying if you turn your gain(s) down, the alt noise goes away? Then do that! (not trying to be sarcastic, just practical)

SEXY mids, bro. Can't wait to see them in action in future vids.

LOL You showed that sumbitch.

I thought you guys would not only find this interesting, but have the knowledge to follow through with it. I made a pair of them a bunch of years ago using Pioneer 12" subs and an old 70W x 2 Technics receiver. It made the door on my oven downstairs rattle (I had only a 150W, 10" powered sub, so that was not what was shaking anything) http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_4_2/tactile.html Tips: Use loctite on the fasteners, ensure you can add/subtract weight to/from the bridge across the dustcap in order to tune it, and frame the fukers like you mean it. You will NOT be dissapointed. It REALLY added to the HT experience, unlike anything I've heard/felt before. Commercially available "shakers" tickle your bum compared to these. *Caveat- I used speaker-level outputs from my main HT receiver and converted those to RCA level inputs for the shaker receiver, often putting 9V of input into that poor thing. It lasted a year, but could easily be reproduced with a good plate amp meant for HT subs.

Be careful with that orbital! Hope you have some practice with a random orbital to know what er of correction you need for diffent problems. What pads are you using with it?

I need onre of those in my living room.

Right on, Steve. You should know your car well enough by now; it's not in your head. A good STB will noticeably stiffen the ride. Well executed as always.

Hope it works out in your favor. when I first read this, I thought you lived in Canada? (I thought you COULD do that in the USA without getting tickets/charged for stupid crap.)