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Bluliner

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  1. You'll fry a coil or have some other mechanical malfunction before the cone falls apart. Between the SQ of kevlar vs. CFRP; the passive crossovers will have more to do with how they sound than the materials used to make the cone. While kevlar & carbon fiber are both very strong, they're only strong when woven as a reinforcement of some sort of plastic (the resin). And depending on what & how much resin was used, there may be no benefit to using kevlar or carbon mat other than for marketing & bling purposes. Some of the finest sounding speakers I've ever heard for either car or home have been paper woofers. I have a pair that are nearly 30 years old and still function 100% today. Don't play the materials or RMS game; use your ears.
  2. Who cares if the HU has a 2v output? Are your RCA's 30ft long? With good grounds, quality twisted RCAs, and a proper install; there's no audible difference in noise levels between 2v & 4v. That's not say I don't like line drivers, but I wouldn't expect any difference between a HU's 2v & another's 4v. The EQs I've used and really liked are all trunk mounted & kinda big. I loathe in-dash 1/2 DIN units.
  3. Ya...like dim his lights more. The alternator has to run the car and maintain the battery. Typically, batteries draw about about 7A of current and need 13v< to charge. The flickering lights means the alternator cannot keep up and the voltage is stepping down to the battery. In case you don't know; a battery is around 12.5v and the alternator produces around 14v. When the voltage dips b/c of current demand, you're running off the battery. I don't care if you have a stock battery or 15 aftermarket batteries; the lights are still going to dim. ... To fix this issue, I'd like to know more about the OP's system and vehicle. In normal daily drivers (<1kW), a "Big 3" upgrade is a waste of time and money. A 4ga run that's <3' can carry A LOT of current with minimal voltage loss. Spending who knows how much on 1/0, connectors, loom, and a few hours doesn't make much sense if you're going to gain .1v at the back of the car. Likewise, it's probably a bad idea to toss HO alternators and whatnot at the car if the problem can be fixed by finding a better grounding point and/or turning down the gains a bit. Hell, a good cap will probably fix the problem but I'd prefer a "free" solution...wouldn't you?
  4. If the woofer & port were both down firing or corner loaded, there should be little difference as the distance between the woofer & port will be nowhere near the size of a wave.
  5. the amp was 300 and speakers are worth 700 thats why i wanted to know the exact type of amp and im still wondering how much watts it has to be Who cares about watts? Seriously, there's a lot more to an amp than the sticker on the case. For instance, watts do not tell you how noisy an amp is nor will it tell you if the onboard crossover network is terrible. Watts won't tell you if you'll have to replace your amp in 366 days nor will watts tell you if it will even sound good. There's plenty of amps on the market that sound terrible, or worse, gutless...you'd never know by reading the specs. Likewise, some companies like to get cute and rate their amps without all channels being driven and using a wattage figure at 1kHz. Not too useful if you plan on using all the channels and driving a subwoofer now is it? Don't even get me started on a-weighting. Use your ears and not what the spec sheet says. I have owned plenty of amps that looked marginal on paper but curb stomped high-end equipment. Amps have their own sonic signature when used in the real world. Anyone who brings up the Richard Clark $10k challenge doesn't understand the challenge nor do they understand how amplifiers are used in the car audio environment. There's plenty of quality products out there both new and used. Amps I've always been partial to would be the old Rockfords that used Hafler's Trans-nova design, the hand-made Japanese ADS amps, Linear Power amps with the T03 metal cased transistors, Xtants with the removable cases, Soundstream Reference Class A3.0's, Boston Acoustics GT series (sleeper SQ amps), the non-designed by Arpa Zapcos (look for a sticker), and this is just the used gear list. New amps? There's still a big list but if you're on a budget, might as well go used instead of buying a cheap amp just b/c it's new.
  6. Slot port boxes are larger b/c the port displaces more internal volume. And if a slot port is greater than a 4:1 (meaning 4" high and 1" wide) ratio, you lose output. Aeroports are cheap & easy, especially if you want a smaller overall footprint for your enclosure. Box dimensions aside; slot ports can be made to sound better than aeroports so long as the ratio is less than 4:1.
  7. OP; You're buying a $100 amp to power $1000+ worth of speakers? Anything about that sound odd to you?
  8. This reminds me of a mess I saw a long time ago. Customer brought in their HU for warranty with the vehicle & HU harness still attached. Every single wire was soldered together in what can only be described as a massive lead booger poorly wrapped in what felt like hockey tape. And when I mean every wire I mean every wire was soldered together at one point (gigantic lead sputnik booger). When I inquired why this was wired that way the customer calmly said, and I'm not making this shit up, "the electricity should know where to go and not break the radio." Darwin? Where were you that day? ... Carry on.
  9. If you want to bring the soundstage up a bit, first try RAISING your crossover points. If that doesn't work, you may want to adjust your time alignment if you have that function. If you have any spare tweets laying around, mock up a mount with some carpet tape and take a listen to those tweeters in the a-pillar and firing up at the windshield like you're planning to do with the 5.25". That usually takes care of the rainbow. But having a midbass & tweeter lower and adding a mid up high on the dash is always a bad idea. You want the mid & tweet as close together as possible if they're mounted up high. (like a 4"mid in a vent & tweeter in the a-pillar)
  10. Peerless SLS woofers do very nicely in door locations. Depending on how much depth you have, JL 8IB4's make some nice midbass drivers too.
  11. If they are receiving 750 instead of 900, would you even notice? No... Since you're asking it's probably safe to assume that you're not happy with something in your system and are thinking about changing amps. Am I right or are you just curious?
  12. Hmm...I thought the newer (2004 & on) Clarion HU's were quite reliable. Some may not have sounded great but I don't recall seeing a lot of them broken like you would Alpine & Kenwoods. With that, I also thought Pioneer's radios were pretty reliable, electronically at least. Sure, the buttons may fall off or the face may flip on it's own; it'll always play a CD though. But Boss? That's fleamarket junk.
  13. First off; that system is wayyyyyyyyy to complicated. You have speakers up high, down low, behind you, and staring you in the face. It might get loud, it might sound clean, but it will in no way image right. You have to localize as much as you can in one area and use some tricks to bring the sound stage up. Ditch all the speakers behind the b-pillar except subwoofers. Up front, I'd do away with either the 6" or 8" woofer. Build either the 6 or 8 into the door and have the 4" & tweet in kicks. They're higher freq. speakers and will have better dispersion. To bring the sound stage up, run some ambient tweets in the a-pillars either firing at one another or crisscrossed firing at the windshield. You want these to be a bit quieter than the tweets in the kicks. You're only using these to "fool" listeners in thinking the music is coming from much higher in the sound stage. This is similar to using good midbass to "fool" listeners in thinking the bass is coming from the front. With that, you have 8 channels up front; 4 tweeters, two 4" mids, and two 6/8" midbass drivers. In regards to using the 360.2; can't you set it up so that only 1 input feeds signal to all of its channels? You're not going to be balancing/fading with the HU...no need for all those extra RCAs or Y-splitters.
  14. It's kind of like jacking the treble up on a POS mid 90's GM car...that kinda sound.
  15. If they work and you only paid $45, you're getting what you paid for. If you're expecting hi-fidelity sound reproduction from those, you're not going to get it. 3-way 6x9's with plastic tweets tend to all be kinda screechy/harsh as there's no LP filter for any of the speakers. So you have 3 speakers all reproducing high frequencies giving you that harsh tone.
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