ncc74656

yes, most of what this vehicle has is "unique" so im having a hard time finding inexpsnsive parts. that said i will look into your battery line. the truck is a turbo diesel with out glow plugs so thats why it takes so much.

i currently run group 31 batteries, factory is group 26. i have about 3.5KW of stereo but my primary concern is the starting of my vehicle. im trying to find a battery for 200.00 or less as i need 2 of them. my truck takes about 280A for 15-35 seconds before i crank the starter and the starter takes 550-850A (depending on temps) for 5-15 seconds (depending on temp and time left sitting) to turn over. i see your batteries on the lower end have 550ca so id think there cca would be 300 or so and that is no where near enough. there are times that this cranking can be longer, as high as 45 seconds to start. temps around here are -25/-35F most winters can anyone give me any input?

im going to hook it up and give it a try. on a side note, i got my BTL 18 in the mail early

ive had this sub for many years but never fully powered it. its been used on my computer speaker system along with some floor standing sonys and a yamaha reciever. i like my movies and music loud. got it when i was 16, http://liveweb.archi...nfo_pds151s.htm

my spare PSU is a single 12V rail at 87A. the amp i figure can put out 625W at 8Ohm, the sub i have on my computer speakers is 560W so that seems to be close enough no? ive got a couple PSU's lying around, i could combine a couple of them.

a friend has a ZX2500.1 that he is no longer using and it cuts out from time to time on him. he pushed it very hard on a shit electric system. he offered it to me for 30 bucks and im thinking of hooking it to a spare 1KW computer power supply i have and using it to power my 8OHM computer sub. any thoughts? has anyone done this before?

voice coil config being the ohms they are wired to correct?

its been run with dual 12" L7's wired to 2Ohm (i think it was 2, it was purchased direct from kicker and they wired it for that amp) and a single L7 12 at 4Ohm. also ran 2 15" L7's at 2ohm. both sets of subs ended up blowing, the 12's seized and smoked while the 15's just got a little rattle at low volume. i am installing a 18" fi BL next week upon delivery

its at 2ohm. its never been run anything other than 2 or 4 ohm.

it is wired to the battery for power and to the frame rail of the truck. all grounds and power are 0 or 00 gauge wire. power is supplied by 3 batteries. even out of hte truck and inside tho, running on a dedicated AC to DC inverter it still gets very hot

I have a ZX1500.1 kicker that gets very hot. ive had it since 2007 and just the other day it shut off and stopped powering a sub due to what i presume was a heating issue as it started to work fine after a cool down. when i touch the top of the amp it is so hot it burns my hand. is this normal? can i add a fan to this so its not just passively cooled? has anyone had this issue? the amp sits under a seat and its currently summer and around 105F outside so there is only so much cooling it can do

i will be having a box builder who i useto work with make a box for it. he knows his shit so i am confident in a properly tuned box. he has never heard of this brand of sub so he is eager to play with it a bit.

if something cost 260 to ship i doubt i would buy it. the most ive ever paid for shipping was 500.00 and that was to transport a dana 60 and dana 80 axle for my dodge ram half way across the US. 260 for a speaker is just crazy

and i just clicked the buy button! i cant wait to get it now

im ordering a BL 18" for my back seat now. i think that will do what i want. dual 1 ohm, hyper pole: yes, non flat wound, internal leads, daily, universal. the 52.00 shipping really sucks tho :/