the moose

You could also try a sub box w/a wider face and mount your port tube on the outside of the enclosure using 3" plumbing pvc pipe with an elbow, thus retaining your internal box volume. Tuned ports work the same way, whether inside or outside of your enclosure

as for car speakers for a home stereo, car speakers are 4 ohms, home speakers are 8 ohms. I would make a tower type enclosures with two speakers in each and connect them together in series unless your running a crossover capacitor on your single driver (which you probably should for a midrange frequency 500hz and up , your not talking mid bass 90hz and up are you?) . If not, 4 ohms might overheat your amplifier. As for box size you can make it pretty small for midrange? They do sell midrange speakers with sealed backs,so depending on your crossover hz is? If you want more mid bass, then build a larger box with some polyfill. there are a lot of websites for enclosure building out there

I'm just looking around for new ideas for my next one. I was planning on using one 12" sub, with either two 6x9's or two mid bass 5.25's I also have two aluminum horn tweeters that are just kicking around here, I might incorporate them with the mid bass drivers. I still haven't decided which way to go?

This is a few speaker boxes that I've built, they are quite easy to make, You just need to do the math for enclosure size, before choosing your sub or subs. I know that they are not as nice looking as what I've seen here so far but it gives you an Idea of what you can do. I used 1/2" felt under the carpets and under that I used a product that I bought at Home depot called "Quick Roof" directly on the floors of this car as a sound deadener. Quick roof is just like Dynamat extreme ( asphalt based, heavy foil lined, peel and stick ) but only at a fraction of the cost. A 6" x 25' roll is $17.00 and Dynamat last time I checked was $10.00 per square ft. also used fiberglass insulation stapled to the inside of the enclosure. This first one was made with t-shirt material when you build your box, you need to leave the bottom out of it until the last step. this sub box in the middle was a 1.25 cu.ft. and ported Prop rings up with dowels, either glue them or screw them down staple t-shirt material tightly over speaker rings fiberglass resin brushed on top of T-shirt material apply 4-5 layers of fiberglass to the underside of the material and wood only, nothing goes on top except bondo later on steps done pod after paint pod finished 10" dvc Quantum audio subwoofer, Sony 5.25" and 6.5" coaxials, Sony 780watt 2 channel amp, clarion 200watt 4 channel amp, 2 farad boss capacitor, clarion head unit, clarion 7 band equalizer w/ separate subwoofer gain controls and a high amp alternator. This next one was done with fleece material, it is thicker so it held more resin plus less bondo had to be used for imperfections at the end. This is what I'm running in mine there is a box underneath the shelf that you see here. I originally had it in my '67 bug some 15 years ago.I had crossfire subwoofers in it back then. I'm going to build yet another fiberglass box instead of this one, pretty soon so I'm looking around for more fiberglass ideas 2 JL audio 10" 8ohm connected in parallel. planet audio head unit, a boss eq with sub output not seen here because it is under cup holder Crunch audio amplifiers a 4 channel 600w, a 500w for the subs and a 5 farad cap

What' the make and model of vehicle is this going into?